sixwheeledbeast

Ah, you can't beat one of those good old fashioned tube valve interfaces... That's unfortunate, have you tried to contact another engineer? It's not quite as simple as sticking wires in terminals... Lets start with the fact a PE12 and PE24 are two different panels so wire program differently, also we don't know what model Klaxon you have there are different types. Then even with the correct kit you will need to go into the engineers menu which any reputable installer will have his own code so you wouldn't be able to access. Follow this with locating an output that can handle the current from the blaster, would have to check spec sheets for panel and blaster. When in engineering menu you would need to set an output (all should sink negative on the small Texe panels) to follow the bell with a reduced trigger time so not annoy the neighbours or burn the blaster out.

You really need a contact to start the entry/exit here, as this would be an always awake device. I am not sure which model PIR you have or how you are testing the functionality of it, but from what you say it's likely to be asleep for energy saving.

Bring back the colours...

Zxyel BTW. Not my preferred kit but never had an issue with one.

You can select the type of alarms that are notified in the reporting options, open/closed is disabled on default so digis, diallers and tap don't rack up huge bills. I have said this many times before, Texecom menu structure has evolved over a long time and often has many ways to do the same thing. The menus make sense to installers that have used them everyday and definitely aren't irrelevant. Apps for the two popular platforms have to conform to guidelines on battery life, always running in the background would consume the devices battery very quickly. In addition the phones OS generally disables inactive windows if the app is written to use this, which is why you can have loads of things open on your phone an have no issues. The way round this battery issue is the push notifications but even they are one way so no guarantees you will receive the message therefore will never beat proper signalling.

It's not the fixings that's the issue. You can easily pop a mag, as it relies on the contact surface area.

If your blowing 13A plug top fuses there is something seriously wrong on the mains side of the alarm (assuming only the alarm is connected to the spur). I would suggest isolating it and powering the system down until tests can be made to the electrical connections or control panel.

Needs a new battery or battery fuse by the sounds of it. I have also just realised this thread was hijacked and doesn't make much sense if you read it from the beginning. As for your computer maybe consider other options than Windows if your starting again.

Sounded like all you needed to do was close your tampers and arm/disarm it from your original post.

Prices would vary depending on:- your area, if they're approved and what is included as part of the service; which is worth asking. Very often when it comes to prices we generally advise to speak to at least 3 places, and go with the one you feel most comfortable with, not necessarily the cheapest. Many companies would prefer to offer a maintenance agreement which may (or may not) include (some or all) parts and call out services. You could also have a one off call out to check the system, I am sure an engineer competent with Texecom kit would be happy to reprogram, provide a zone list and setup your part sets for you in next to no time.

Factory defaulting the control panel without knowing how to program it again wasn't a sensible option, it could have just been a faulty contact or sensor in the first place. You will need to find the original fault and then reprogram the system correctly.

Firstly it would be a good idea to have it serviced, if it hasn't been recently. Batteries are installed in the system that are vital to it's correct operation. Veritas pretty straight forward to use for users. User manual available here. http://texe.com/uk/document.php?serveid=275 or I assume this is the manual you have a copy of? Note if your system is fairly old the function numbers will not be the same as the manual, this is known as a Pre-2000 panel. You will not be able to change your part set but if it's setup correctly you will be able to use it. The lights indicate the omitted zones while part is arming, multiple zones can be omitted at the same time via a part set. Walk test will indicate zones operation so you can work out which zone number is which device

Merged this thread with your first post as questions where asked with no response. It's likely it just needs someone who knows what they are doing to look at it.

Could have lost it's programming, blown a fuse or just needs a service. Either way time to call an engineer and get it looked at.

Insist? They come to you asking for security advice, they insist something else and you agree? It's never happened, but I ain't got time for messers

Airing cupboards and lofts!? These are some of the worse places for kit like this. Bedroom sounded sensible to me if the system is quiet.

Texecom normal app works fine if you know what your doing. Connect is a separate thing no "relaunch". Enforcer and Powermaster are similar. If you like PnP, Powermaster is pretty much enter a couple of codes from memory.

You need to show the benefit of having a new laptop to your employer, if you can provide evidence for improvement in productivity the owners maybe more interested. I rarely use a laptop for programming and my 10+ year old laptop still does the business when I need it to. Bare in mind having to put in the donkey work if your current software will not work on the new lapy

UDL Options need to disable the remote UDL it's set to answer after 3 rings.

Honda and Rossi will always have opposite agendas since they parted. 2015 was an interesting season several debatable events right through the season, the back of the grid penalty at the last race didn't help for Rossi. Lorenzo will never change, take "Suggested Mapping 8" as a fine example.

This last season of the GP has been hotter than ever. While not everyone can access BT Sport they do a decent job of the coverage and improving each season so far. Unless you ride you are unlikely have much interest or appreciate the talent and exciting racing on show, that's just the way it goes.

Yes, time for a new panel.

Is there a reason you are looking at Hik? Hik no longer allow equipment to be sold to end-users so you may not find a supplier anyway Yes

Your thinking of someone else again... Yes. It would be sensible to pull separate cables for the whole network back to a cabinet and patch up as required if your starting again. I like my motorsport well sport generally, but I just can't watch a full F1 race just completely uninteresting to watch for a long time now, considering it's suppose to be the pinnacle of 4 wheels.

If your planning a rewire then that's fine, just thought I'd mention you can get HD on Coax if required. Bandwidth of your network not the cable, you need to know a bit about networking to get it right. You don't want the camera system dragging your buildings internet speed to dial up speeds. Don't believe CAT7 is a standard, Cat5e would be fine but CAT6 is better if cabling the whole building for IP. Some NVR's have PoE built in or you may need injectors depending on the draw of the cameras or cable length. Motorbikes here, not F1 that would be sjsturner your thinking of.