sixwheeledbeast

Is that for fitting the PIR's or removing the pets?

Sounds like the landlord needs to get someone out to either service it or decommission it. If your a tenant it's not your call on having it removed etc.

I fail to see the point of fitting a pointless piece of plastic you have to remove on each service anyway. Wouldn't bother with the screw caps either, I have seen them rounded off and jammed in before now, although this would be on the Veritas case not the Prem. Plastic caps and similar covers are just asking for screwdriver rash from numpty engineers and offer minimal aesthetics for there existence IMO.

GJD Multispeech should do what you require. Drives a 8 Ohm speaker from NO or triggered inputs. No SD card it's stored on the board.

Not any more...

Wish I'd thought of that, I had to make do with sticking flat bits of ABS together with DCM.

Exactly, just like I said in my first post. It's good to have knowledge of the basics, so start small but also consider tech moves on. Back when Logic 4's where designed a office desktop computer had less power than a SBC's you can buy now. A RPi3 is about £30, wouldn't like to guess what a P5 Pentium system or the like would have cost. The other benefit is if you get bored of the project you can easily repurpose the SBC for the next project. If you are really interested in making up some circuits maybe try some basic timer circuits to start, 555 timers are normally good to cut your teeth on. They are very easy to build a working project and if wired in the different modes, give good understanding of RC networks, transistors and logic level. This is assuming you are starting from minimal electronics knowledge of course.

Normally the bin... However, if you would like to locate them somewhere other than your local recycling centre; they fit in the screw holes after you put the lid on.

RonJ has some good schematics on his site I have used some of them before. From what you say in your posts you seem interested in the electronics but never build much before? If this is the case take a look at Ron's smaller and simpler transistor circuits first, before you build up to the modular one posted. The IC's are all pretty standard CMOS 4xxx Series, cheap and easy to pick up. I wouldn't start reverse engineering a Logic 4 as your first project tho.

It's all relative on what your trying to make and for what application. I have made alarm circuits on stripboard before, they where designed specifically for minimal standby current. In essence it's basic logic, you have inputs and outputs, the more you want to do with it, the more processing you need.

While old schematics maybe interesting it's unlikely you will find any available, they are normally kept in house. Very few engineers would repair down to component level and manufacturers would prefer to keep there designs to themselves. Unless you specifically want to work with ATMEL or PIC's, you could make something with basic components or use a relatively low cost SBC to interface with sensors on GPIO.

Providing the lamp has a day night sensor, yeah.

I would assume the tamper on the outside sounder is faulty.

I assume it needs a service and a new battery, that's if no ones looked at it in 20 years.

Excel isn't a popular panel, may have spoke to someone unfamiliar with them? I have no idea what your asking here. Are you trying to repair or get quotes for your own system here?

From memory you don't set zones per suite on an Excel. The zones are only enabled or disabled using the full and part suite options. The type changes are in another menu and are global for part, so you have it's full state and part suite(s) state that's it.

Costs would depend on area etc. It could be done by an alarm engineer within a one hour call out charge, unless there's something unusual about the installation, like access issues.

Prepare ear protection and ladders. Remove Mains and Battery from main controls, get up to external sounder while it's sounding and remove battery. Caution:- Mains voltages in panel and the flashing strobe unit WILL give you a shock if you touch them. Alarms are designed to be tamper proof, there is no way to disable the outside sounder without getting up to it. If the only issue is the battery have you considered having someone come out to either service it or if required disable it for you?

A multimeter is the normal tool for testing these things. Power LED dimming and temperature output is not going to indicate much change unless severely overloaded.

So you need to calculate the total system current while in alarm to make sure you don't overload the panels power supply. While doing this you would also calculate the systems standby current and work this out against your standby battery to make sure it's adequate for say 12 hours of power outage.

If it's 16 Ohm speaker driver it should be driving 16 Ohm. Wiring of multiple speakers would depend on the wiring configuration. Series - Zt = Za + Zb Parallel - Zt = (Za * Zb) / (Za + Zb) We don't know what's on the system to know how loaded the panel is. Most systems can take a speaker, a bellbox, a keypad and a hand full of PIR's from there PSU.

Have you checked the Downloads section where most manuals are archived for your convenience? http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/category/3-ade/

I suggest reading the instructions for everything before you start, neither of those devices wire onto the panel as a zone.

Bench testing will hardly be beneficial for testing brick throwing but it's sensible wiring things up on a bench first before jumping into a project.

Did I follow this correctly? A grand for that shoddy work? Movement detectors are designed to detect people walking across them, yes they can pick up other things due to how they work but that's what they are designed to do. You shouldn't be expecting a PIR or DT to detect this type of incident There is more to alarms than sticking coloured wires in holes, understanding how detection works and what type you need for the environment is all part of the job. If you want to detect the window being put in, I suggest using a method capable of this. Also to your last point an auto dialler maybe fast but it's certainly not a secure method.