sixwheeledbeast

SMPSUs have had a few fail all pre v4, most within warranty period. Elite software wise are pretty solid compared to pre-Elite, I don't have any issues like you suggest. My best guess for your Duress issue would be G3 wasn't enabled on the panel. Not called technical in a long while, but you haven't really said why your fed up with them. I'd guess waiting times is the normal complaint.

Care to expand on glitches and tech support? Texecom "old boys" have setup round the corner if that's what your on about.

You need to prove if it's environmental or the device. Swap it with another or cover it from the environment.

BS4737 was no more or less than 20 minutes. 2-15 minute for EN50131-1. Not sure where rearms are referenced but normally leave on 3.

It could be maintained without parts or labour included. You should inquire what's included when your pricing up. Looking at approved companies (NSI SSAIB) or recommendations would be a starting point.

You'd normally get the fault tone with the battery removed not full alarm.

Sounds like the PSU/transformer is failing or has been overloaded. Had this with 2500 and 900's

They would be stupid not too.

It's for exactly that disabling the LED's on detection devices, why would there need to any other application for it? Regulations require the LED's to be disabled on certain installations this output would be wired into any compatible sensor to facilitate this. Even if not required by regulation you could enable this if you have detection in public areas, stopping the ability for someone to pre-determine coverage of an area or device. Specifically at G3 on Texecom this useful output would allow a user to check the masking state at the detector in question and then do the required walk test to reset the sensor from it's masked condition.

Drop testing lithium batteries is a bad idea they could explode, and also doesn't indicate charge like a alkaline would. You could only test them with a multimeter and that would only give you an indication as they are not loaded.

The installer would use there own code in the system. We do not give out codes, manuals or defaulting information here for security reasons. If you can't contact the original maintainer, I would recommend you call a few local companies and inquire about a service. Karisma's are quite an old panel now, I have known even well maintained ones to have iD biscuits fail and NVM issues.

I agree, I don't know the CPX well enough to know if polling would be an issue. However, if polling where a part of the issue then I would say it's likely all the radio batteries would fail and need replacing. It's more likely the system locked up when the power was restored as PJ says. To move forward if you feel you have a complaint ask to speak to someone at the company and explain, if this does not give you a satisfactory resolution take it up with there inspectorate if approved. Finally take a service contract up with another company that support your system, having a system without one is only asking for grief in the long run.

From what I gather on your posts above I would say:- Not many systems are designed to last 30 hours with no power. If the control panel battery is exhausted then your system may not power back up when the mains restores. Your sensor batteries are separate from the mains failure/control panel battery failure, if they where failing you will never truly know now. I would recommend radio sensors batteries are replace annually, they never last as long as the manufacturer claims. There is no way I wouldn't recommand a full service to a non-maintained customer if it had not been serviced within 12 months. If this isn't explained you'll be back again within 12 months to swap the batteries and the customer would expect this to be FOC.

There not great panels but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. I would also assume it's the door contact at fault.

Powermax Express. You are likely to have a sensor with a flat battery, if you keep pressing I/OK button it will tell you the faults.

The thread wasn't closed, looks like it was reported for some reason. I'll merge them back as I am not sure if the questions about the battery where answered.

Pot controls keypad and speaker on 900. Software volume was a 2500 thing I recall.

Sideways clearly

N14 Pulsar Gti-R?

Have you thought about getting some quotes?

If you kill your alarm does it ring out at a good volume for the full duration of the hold off and then recover within 24 hours?

If the battery is a C20 (most likely) then Ah ratings are measured over a 20 hour period. If the battery is discharged quicker than that you loose out on amp-hours. On a bells only domestic you would normally require a standby time of 12 hours with one (15 minute) activation. You also don't want to run close to that figure due to above and also ageing and environmental changes so therefore use the next battery up if within 10%. So you need the standby current and the alarm current for your calculations. Unless your firing off lots of high amperage sounders, I would estimate a good quality 7Ah battery is required from your standby values.

Also you don't need the plug on the battery lead, its terminals on all the ones I have fitted

Yes. Ni-Mh 1/2AA 250mAh 7.2V Consider the cost of the whole bell before you start the job. The battery may not be faulty (not enabled) but equally other components may have failed, you will only know from testing while up there. You need to be careful when replacing the battery. Not only as the sounder may ring out on opening the tamper, but also you will have to remove the strobe guard providing access to components that may shock you if you put your fingers in the wrong place.

It's of most concern if you regularly use Bluetooth (I was thinking say hands free kits in vans). Exploits can be used on undiscoverable (hidden) devices too, so as long as Bluetooth is on this could be implemented.