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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. sixwheeledbeast
    Normally the bin... However, if you would like to locate them somewhere other than your local recycling centre; they fit in the screw holes after you put the lid on.
  2. sixwheeledbeast
    RonJ has some good schematics on his site I have used some of them before. From what you say in your posts you seem interested in the electronics but never build much before? If this is the case take a look at Ron's smaller and simpler transistor circuits first, before you build up to the modular one posted. The IC's are all pretty standard CMOS 4xxx Series, cheap and easy to pick up. I wouldn't start reverse engineering a Logic 4 as your first project tho.
  3. sixwheeledbeast
    It's all relative on what your trying to make and for what application. I have made alarm circuits on stripboard before, they where designed specifically for minimal standby current. In essence it's basic logic, you have inputs and outputs, the more you want to do with it, the more processing you need.
  4. sixwheeledbeast
    While old schematics maybe interesting it's unlikely you will find any available, they are normally kept in house. Very few engineers would repair down to component level and manufacturers would prefer to keep there designs to themselves. Unless you specifically want to work with ATMEL or PIC's, you could make something with basic components or use a relatively low cost SBC to interface with sensors on GPIO.
  5. sixwheeledbeast
    Providing the lamp has a day night sensor, yeah.
  6. sixwheeledbeast
    I would assume the tamper on the outside sounder is faulty.
  7. sixwheeledbeast
    I assume it needs a service and a new battery, that's if no ones looked at it in 20 years.
  8. sixwheeledbeast
    Excel isn't a popular panel, may have spoke to someone unfamiliar with them? I have no idea what your asking here. Are you trying to repair or get quotes for your own system here?
  9. sixwheeledbeast
    From memory you don't set zones per suite on an Excel. The zones are only enabled or disabled using the full and part suite options. The type changes are in another menu and are global for part, so you have it's full state and part suite(s) state that's it.
  10. sixwheeledbeast
    Costs would depend on area etc. It could be done by an alarm engineer within a one hour call out charge, unless there's something unusual about the installation, like access issues.
  11. sixwheeledbeast
    Prepare ear protection and ladders. Remove Mains and Battery from main controls, get up to external sounder while it's sounding and remove battery. Caution:- Mains voltages in panel and the flashing strobe unit WILL give you a shock if you touch them. Alarms are designed to be tamper proof, there is no way to disable the outside sounder without getting up to it. If the only issue is the battery have you considered having someone come out to either service it or if required disable it for you?
  12. sixwheeledbeast
    A multimeter is the normal tool for testing these things. Power LED dimming and temperature output is not going to indicate much change unless severely overloaded.
  13. sixwheeledbeast
    So you need to calculate the total system current while in alarm to make sure you don't overload the panels power supply. While doing this you would also calculate the systems standby current and work this out against your standby battery to make sure it's adequate for say 12 hours of power outage.
  14. sixwheeledbeast
    If it's 16 Ohm speaker driver it should be driving 16 Ohm. Wiring of multiple speakers would depend on the wiring configuration. Series - Zt = Za + Zb Parallel - Zt = (Za * Zb) / (Za + Zb) We don't know what's on the system to know how loaded the panel is. Most systems can take a speaker, a bellbox, a keypad and a hand full of PIR's from there PSU.
  15. sixwheeledbeast
    Have you checked the Downloads section where most manuals are archived for your convenience? http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/category/3-ade/
  16. sixwheeledbeast
    I suggest reading the instructions for everything before you start, neither of those devices wire onto the panel as a zone.
  17. sixwheeledbeast
    Bench testing will hardly be beneficial for testing brick throwing but it's sensible wiring things up on a bench first before jumping into a project.
  18. sixwheeledbeast
    Did I follow this correctly? A grand for that shoddy work? Movement detectors are designed to detect people walking across them, yes they can pick up other things due to how they work but that's what they are designed to do. You shouldn't be expecting a PIR or DT to detect this type of incident There is more to alarms than sticking coloured wires in holes, understanding how detection works and what type you need for the environment is all part of the job. If you want to detect the window being put in, I suggest using a method capable of this. Also to your last point an auto dialler maybe fast but it's certainly not a secure method.
  19. sixwheeledbeast
    Zone, Circuit, NC C, Relay. All the same thing in this instance.
  20. sixwheeledbeast
    The power supply is already in parallel there is no other way with wiring shared like that. If you wire a zone with multiple sensors in parallel you will have to trigger all at the same time to trigger that zone.
  21. sixwheeledbeast
    In parallel you would have to hope any burglar would trigger all the sensors at exactly the same time. One Zone, One sensor. Depending on the wiring and the control equipment it could be done in EOL configuration.
  22. sixwheeledbeast
    Looks a right mess. No tampers and two (or more?) sensors series on the same zone. Yes, relay is the same as NC C here. Old Risco PIR by the looks of it.
  23. sixwheeledbeast

    John

    sixwheeledbeast replied to ffrowley's topic in Electrics

    Possibly right with microwave then, should have some sort of adjustment I would expect.
  24. sixwheeledbeast

    John

    sixwheeledbeast replied to ffrowley's topic in Electrics

    Exactly, isolate things to narrow the problem down.
  25. sixwheeledbeast
    Just for clarification FTO = fail to operate. It all depends on the type of sounder and which wire as to what fault would occur. It could be possible for a wire to break and the system display no fault condition. From a professional POV that's why regular servicing is important, the things a user wouldn't spot from daily use. Yes it's unlikely but possible, I am sure you came here for professional opinion, otherwise you wouldn't be bothered and would have done the work already.
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