datadiffusion

Blimey really, what an odd and presumably more expensive way of doing it.

Is it frequency or is it just unqiue string on the device ID number? Either way I suspect the OP has wasted their money if they can't return the item or already have a house full of ADT devices. In which case the eBayers of these ADT models all claim they will offer support as far as getting to the app screen if not any further. I suspect the 868 is the frequency, and '1' means 'non-ADT Devices' rather than a change in frequency.

Once went to service a system that had been put with help from 'a lad who didn't long'. The actual alarm was OK, but apparently the lad didn't do a lot. What he did do was the mains feed in the cupboard. Which explains why, not very often, this barely used cupboard (big old house mind, I think it was a fully loaded Gardtec 840) seemed to cause an brief AC fault on the system. Muppet had wired it parallel to the cord switch. With the low demand on the alarm, and an old fashioned lamp providing a high resistance (but just enough) path to N, it was 'OK' when the lamp was off!!

Or when they deny cutting cable but 'happy' to pay you to reset alarm they 'didn't set off' Then when you find 15A terminals stuffed under loft insulation with a discarded packet opposite with 'Plumbing World' logo on...

It wouldn't when all components are designed for cable management e.g. strain relief and IDC type punch down connection. Alarm components are neither of the above and designed for regular dismantling. Did I once see an alarm system designed for IDC though? Very surprised that Telecom Security didn't insist on this for their systems, after all they were as good as proprietry in every other way. I guess in the end though the 'Security' part of BT was very much separate? And then of course it died anyway so probably for the best it was kept that way. I always thought half the reason BT, British Gas, Anglian etc... got into alarms was the pre-existing 'multi skilled' (LOL) national field force.

https://catalog.belden.com/techdata/EN/8723_techdata.pdf I suppose you CAN also get certified CAT5/5e in stranded [flexible] (otherwise every patch cable I've ever bought is fraudulently marked up as CAT5/5e/6 compliant*) but the average reader will just assume solid from a box reading that. Worse yet, most CCA (Copper Coated Aluminium) IS fraudulently marked up as CATX compliant** *I know a lot actually are, I tend to stick with branded (Belkin) or large distributors own ranges, e.g RS, Nimans, CPC **CATx standards only allow for pure copper, no CCA product could ever comply. Anyway, now I'm over complicating things!

Ah that's a new one, I'm not big on Galaxy/Honeywell, but IIRC they used to recommend screened Belden cable, again only for long-run peripherals. In fact, using any solid core wiring FOR ALARMS (OBVIOUSLY) is a really bad idea IMHO, from an installer 'boots on the ground' PoV.

Are you sure? I'd be amazed. It may mention screened cable for keypads and nodes, but this is still flexible type.

Got a pic of another TSI 'character' top right!

You know what I mean though, don't worry I'd also allow half a day or more if it hadn't been in use immediately before the upgrade.

Agreed as good as TS700 was in the day it really belongs in the same place as a Ford Escort, e.g. a collector looking for novelty and nostalgia over reliability. But the point stands - are you (OP) really up to this or not, it's hard for us to tell from here really. It's hard to give advice from the point of view that most of us here could replace the system in a couple of hours and would be prepared for the usual problems you get when reactivating an old system (cable faults, hidden jucntion boxes, etc...) or false alarms later on. One thing I would say is forget the DIY wireless option, such systems are not much cheaper and mostly rubbish, especially Yale and the likes.

Especially with ADT since they don't sell dummies, and even the dumbest most drugged up crim will probably recognise the brand / box. Hate to admit it but Yale have the same effect - see a Yale box, 9.5/10 it must have at least been a whole system at some point. Granted, probably badly installed / not working / unset now, but you won't know until you try.

That is an oddity. @al-yeti?

TBF that sounds like the last ten years to me!

Yes that sounds like zones. I would leave powering it up until you have a new 7AH battery, or it won't be worth the effort (without a working battery it will probably beep constantly). I would assume that the battery you have is goosed, they need replacing every 5 years absolute max anyway. For simplicity I would go to your nearest Toolstation and get a Yucell - https://www.toolstation.com/sealed-lead-acid-battery/p79562 I prefer Yuasa myself (other probably have favourites too) but in quantities of 1 P+P usually makes it a bit silly. You might be able to get a YUASA at a sensible price from a branch of Rexel or sometimes, oddly, Amazon on Prime delivery. When you've done that let us know by posting back here

I wonder if you've confused Areas with Zones?

Yes that's almost certainly speaker (driven by the panel its = to a sounder, most panels (but not all) support a speaker). So the most important bit about an alarm, even though it seems to have once been a decent model put in by a large firm, is; would it meet your needs. Design of a system is the bit where ideally no matter how good a DIYer you are, you need a pro to look at things. So, do you have any special requirements, e.g. large / expensive items? Do you have pets? Who will be using the alarm (just you, children, parents, etc...) What do you expect to happen when the alarm goes off (e.g. loud noise, call to yourself / keyholder, police response?) Best thing to do is answer the above and sketch out the house (just paper & pencil are fine) with sensors e.g PIR and door in their current positions

Looks like a slightly newer model TS700 (not the one with trafo embedded slightly awkwardly into the PCB...) Battery doesn't say 'MADE IN UK' so at least it's been changed once in a lifetime OP it's very old, would recommend an upgrade. Now, depends how handy you are. It's wired with 4 wires per detector plus power, so most panels will need you to open each detector and make a couple of wiring changes + adding resistors. Or, fit an i-On40 for which you can buy a 4 wire adaptor (I'm unsure if other co's make these). However.... as you say it's been disconnected. Are all the PIRs (motion detectors) the same? What other zones are there? Bellbox outside and sounder inside too? Do you have pets? Any above average valuables?

Thanks, what does the main box look like, esp with the cover off?

As above we can't send out defaulting information, but if you want send us a picture of the keypad and main panel and as it's certain to be ancient anyway we can recommend a replacement.

I might have a go inbetween my next set of sodding nightshifts

Ah.

All the guys with the best ion gear are looking for a quick 'fix' I feel... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCANTRONIC-i-ON-30R-PANEL-AND-KEYPAD/124063966212?hash=item1ce2c9e404:g:cQcAAOSwsFZeMH-z Cash only and waaaay too cheap

Minus eBay and PayPal fees at aggregate of 15%, then allowing for the odd refund request which eBay always finds in favour of the liar, sorry, buyer.

Oh btw you're not a dragon, your a blag-on!