datadiffusion

Only ever serviced a couple of Aritechs never made any changes, didn't know that about resistance req.

EOL is totally optional and can be left as simple closed contact

No not ever heard great things so never been in there. Didn't realise they nearly bankrupted themselves buying Wagamama. We used to go to to Wagamama quite a bit until one day we were in the one in Bristol. The waitress spilt someones food all over them, but rather than apologising, bottled it and legged it out to the back. Cue lots of eastern eupoean swearing (probably ?) but definately shouting we could hear from the front (quite a small one in Clifton) Out comes the waitress kind of under duress with a couple of 'heavies' from the kitchen, this all happened fairly quickly so at this point the table involved are almost in shock rather than anything actually happening just yet, to cut a long story short it pretty much turned into a low grade fight between all staff present and the bloke covered in food just staring into the distance as he wiped himself down. At least the arguing was now in English for added LOLs, perhaps it's a front of house rule? We had pretty much finished, were right by the door, so quietly walked out without paying....! It probably ended up in the paper but given the nature of the clientelle I don't think anyone was filming straight away. Was a few years ago now. Never went back to any branch, not because of that so much, we just didn't Loads round here, not doing much but continuously cruising round, hardly ever see a car in our part of WsM otherwise.

LOL very true. There is an Italian restaurant round here that only do delivery. They only make food that delivers well, e.g. no steaks. It's better than some of the sit down places round here... and usually gets delivered in an Audi Interestingly when I got a large free voucher for Deliveroo (another NHS handout) I noticed that the local Frankie and Bennies which I've never been to operates under a number of specific sub-brands for delivery only, e.g. 'American Burger Hut', 'The Pie Shop' with their own logos and everything. The giveway was the postcode.

I guess they are totally redundant with it all being online

In the sense that it appears Obihai are history themselves, I suppose it is! Looks like... Polycom themselves are the new owners. They have kept the Obi reference in model names Never realised Obihai was US based always assumed 100% chink-but-not-tat https://www.poly.com/us/en/products/phones/obi/obi300

I use Obi 110 (Obihai), there is a UK VOIP forum from which you can download a UK settings config file which works a treat. Without that I would have struggled not with the SIP side but the endless options for line capacitance, ringing cadence, etc.... to make UK phones just work. There is also a 100 model but I forget if it's an adaptor for the lineside or handset side. The 110 does both. I've had mine powered up continuously for about 4 years now and with the UPS it's never knowingly had or needed a reset.

Exactly if it's the on board reed, just wire externally and jumper the on-board. (I mean honestly I'd bin the lot as discussed ad-infinitum but that is at least a no-solder solution)

Well it certainly won't be any TV commissioner any time soon

Ah, phew. No I've only used MK USB euromodules in my own house fused via a UPS and in other people's with a Euromodule fuse. The rest are the socket type

You mean the sockets rather than Euro modules, right? I'd better check!

Nice bit of history, but as above. Did you need info because of an issue you're having?

As above the list is about 4 pages long, I'm sure it'll be fine unless its a fancy digital or council spec system. https://amzn.to/2KL4Hvp

Should reset after engineer reset. As above suspect you've been sold duff battery - or possibly corroded / loose plug connection.

I've been putting MK USB sockets around the house - I hope they are half decent given the price. Certainly the PSU module looks very well made, and the fact it needs a deep box is almost reassuring that it was made as well as it could rather than as small as it could. Interestingly they do now do a slim 25mm version but I actively seek out the 'gold bag' 35mm min depth ones for any rooms left!

Until the sugar in most alcoholic drinks as opposed to IPA fecks it up worse then the first time round anyway

As per the original 13 year old discussion we are unable to give out engineering manuals nor defaulting information. I would strongly suggest having this now almost certainly 30 year old system replaced.

OK

That would be ace - let me know and I'll hapilly email a prepaid RM label. I actually fitted a few of the LED ones including on my own house (once, bizarrely one of the parcel guys commented "how cool it was and where could he buy one") because I'd wired it to trigger the doorbell as well as ET. I did actually use the LED ones for various purposes, since no-one was going to tell me off for it. Fitted one arnie and have both(?) models on the shelf. Can't now imagine when I'd ever fit any ET. Agree about the arnie since when was ET vandalism a massive issue anyway? If it was I guess at least it would usually happen overnight, after setting, given the premises the whole day to get a call in!

What the magnet jobbies or the actual Arn1e product? I've got a brand new magnetic one in the stores but no magnet key! Not sure where it came from or why I keep it.

It needs them disabled all the time except during a user or engineer instigated test function.

You'll need to be absolutely sure which zone is connected to which sensor(s)* before continuing. Also, do the detectors have resistors wired in the terminals? *Should be one detector per zone, but older systems may vary. To be honest, the CP8L was a poor choice given the competition, but I guess you're stuck with it now. In use it isn't much different to many but is a bit quirky to say the least with some of the setup.

Global sales

It does for sensors I imagine the OP like me won't be using it for sensors though, except the odd bit of perimeter protection (fobs and keypads are 2 way)

If you like the way the scanny works, although to be absolutely fair you could put anything in, the iOn is your best bet, though you would need to work out exactly how many circuits you need if they are doubled up. No real advantage in anything other than the iOn 40H, that way you get wireless should you ever want it (fobs, also if you ever replace windows I find wireless vibration contacts easier to place neatly). The 40H has 10 circuits on board and you can get expanders in 10's - if you are REALLY lazy the expanders allow double pole wiring if you can't be arsed to convert to EOL (though I would recommend you do). I know you don't want a smart alarm, but the iOn comes with 100% free app based self-monitoring, which you can also completely disable