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datadiffusion

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Everything posted by datadiffusion

  1. You'll need a minimum of 5 posts to use the PM system I'm afraid. The reason we ask for this is that we try to avoid TSI being a 'drive by' site where things are posted by people we don't really know and/or who never post again. We would welcome you to be a regular member of the site and bear in mind many members are 'Trade Only' so won't even see this - they are likely to be the sort of candidates you want, rather than public / DIY readers. If you would like to post some info about yourself / your company in the Introductions forum, that would be a great start, and you can search the forum to find out about Trade membership which opens up a lot more of the site.
  2. It actually pretty much does look like an excursion it's so bright!
  3. The 'new' (prob at least 18 months ago now) Elmdene Quartz LED strobe is pretty good tbh, this is an upgrade in an existing housing that used to be strobe. I actually had a 'crazy' one once, not sure if it was an overgassed tube or what, but even in the daytime it lit up half the house like a halo, no kidding. Still works at every service though. Have to get a vid it's so odd to see.
  4. Hi, welcome to TSI. This topic is 2 years old, and Dave has not logged in for over a year; so it's unlikely he will need any brackets! Why not introduce yourself and tell us about what you do here - http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/14-introduce-yourself/
  5. Hard to know what to suggest that doesn't involve trying a new keypad and/or control unit. Never come across it before and doesn't even look like wiring x-talk. I can't even suggest a re-flash as it's a 16. If it was me I'd upgrade to a new Eaton IP-connected 30R, ( http://www.touchpoint-online.com/content/i-on30r) gaining the free monitoring app, then if you have to carry on and still change the keypad too you haven't exactly wasted your money
  6. I'd have to admit if this was a genuine control unit issue I'd be surprised it wasn't resetting all over the place by now. There is every chance it could be the keypad itself, I suppose. Just to clarify, if you press Menu then your code, for example, and start scrolling through the menus etc... it behaves 100% normally?
  7. Don't worry about the ET terminal, it was never implemented on any i-on model (annoyingly) and is ignored. Assuming the time is wrong again, the only thing I can suggest is to connect the keypad locally via a short, new piece of wire about half a metre long. If the time is still wrong, we can probably assume its the main unit, although I have never ever seen this fault before, though I personally avoid the 16; as you probably know, the 16 model isn't flashable or upgradable and has no wired zones so not one I like very much. Let us know how you get on connecting the keypad directly.
  8. That may or may not nobble your own connection, it's not a system I'm familiar with, but as you've probably guessed unless you have the engineer code, you'll not be able to alter that. We can't give out advice on defaulting here to non trade, but no doubt you'll find it somewhere else. Just bear in mind that the act of defaulting the system codes may or may not automatically clear any and all IP comms settings so whilst you may disconnect from your installer, you may lose app access in the same breath. It does sound as if you need to have a Risco Registered Installer of some kind involved to enable the app, even if it's free.
  9. Ah, right. Great. The first thing I would try then, is (and don't laugh) whilst being fully aware of the dangers of mains electricity, turn off the system at the mains AND disconnect the battery, then back on again. As you've probably guessed, the alarm will sound when you open the cover, and you'll probably need user code first when re-powering up, battery first then mains. You'll then probably need engineer code to reset. Don't bother resetting the time, just see how it gets on over the next hour or two. Even if you have already tried this, indulge me... Meanwhile, a question... how far away is the keypad - who put the cable in, and do you know if it is copper or copper-coated-aluminium (you'll know if the latter as it's like something to make a spring with than a wiring system) Also at the keypad, there is a jumper marked TERM or possibly RS485 TERM - is that jumper fitted?
  10. ...but don't expect it to be the key that unlocks the door to untold riches.
  11. Other suggestions, yes - but you'll need the engineer code, or be happy to default the unit....
  12. Is it still under warranty? If so I suggest installer needs to give you a new main unit??
  13. If not using the app, disconnect from network? However, if they are claiming non-payment, and have a good case, this won't change anything.
  14. So... what you are saying is that the time / date are now frozen at a certain point and not advancing? Are you able to log in and otherwise use the alarm as normal? Anything odd about your power supply either i.e running off an inverter on a narrowboat or something crazy?
  15. Hi and welcome. I have removed the link from your other post; we welcome members here but we try to discourage 'members' who make one advertising type post them never engage again. If you want to stay and participate, that's great, you'll almost certainly benefit from trade membership to reach the most members if your application is deemed successful.
  16. I am amazed that this sector is in any kind of meaningful growth. Rightly or wrongly even the emergency services are swapping true, dedicated radio for cellular based comms. Whether it will come online next year is another matter... EE have a hell of a lot of work to do in this area alone if they aren't going to allow roaming. Here is a good article - http://www.tetra-applications.com/30005/weblog/
  17. Exit Terminate would set the the system if the door is already closed, that's fine! It's one of the 5? compliant methods unless I'm talking bullocks. As long as the ET button is outside the protected area you'd comply, right other registered alarm monkeys?
  18. I have read the whole manual (anything to put off hanging an actual door ) and can't see anything other than a plethora of options for conventional timed exits of various durations. I've probably missed something, but it does seem even the EN menu has nothing about final door.
  19. Final Exit is just the generic term for the device that will start the alarm timer. Risco are quite right in that they offer 'Final Exit' attributes (just like a Logic 4 did!). It's not the same as Final Door, i.e having to open and close the zone to confirm setting, which is one way of satisfying the EN's and what the inspector is looking for. I can't find anything like 'Final Door' in the manual. Am slightly amazed by this though.
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