datadiffusion

For the avoidance of doubt, OP, this is bad.

As above and at worst the main box / circuit board can simply be replaced if the code is fully locked against changing.

Two lads on the amb taught themselves to pick locks on station between jobs, this was 15 years ago when it was a lot quieter. So sooner or later, and remember this is before bumping was more widely known, they let themselves in by picking a lock, as the caller was collapsed in the hallway. Also this was in the era when we still carried sledge hammers and bolt cutters on the ambulance, and apparently only had to notify Plod for permission to use them. Anyway plod turned up regardless and went mental, made a formal complaint about the two. That was the end of that. One of them is a doctor now...

Locks are mostly made in China and designed within the EU but outside of the UK - Abloy control a lot of the EU market from what I can see through carious DIY and professional brands. Safes appear to be an incredibly niche business now (again from my perception) as cash for many goods is on the wain and you are now more likely to find a bigger cash safe in a branch of Starbucks than a Currys. On another, non security forum I'm on there is a member that claims to make his living as a legitimate safe opener, AFAIK he works far and wide and covers an increasingly growing area to make it work. If indeed the safe companies even do employ anyone to test their items, it would more than likely be a very occasional role, not even necessarily within the UK, and would be someone that is already very well known to them; they would be using someone that has been in the business for years and years and not some random person off the street, I'd imagine.

Did anyone send a card in the end?

How does the rear work though?

Thats the front one(s), how about the rear (it's not a bellbox I'm familiar with)

I think thats pretty much what I thought but Volvo still churn them out for one, don't they?

Yeah guessed (in fact aren't those palm trees?!) it's considered an interesting enough part of Bristol (not to be confused with 'Bristol') history that the local technology museum has a full-sized Bristol VR chassis complete with hardboard cab, perspex screen and a helmet wearing mannequin in the foyer...

Class!

There are some very similar pics from India etc... on Google, most of which are last week! But no I imagine most plants now are either vertical, or delivered by specialist transport. This looks quite recent though

I heard they still have a canteen, but the tables were never quite as shiny since you left.

'Bristol' you northern monkeys! This is how they used to take them the short journey from Filton to Bedminster...

I think that people can be a little more helpful, however, I fully accept that as someone who feels they are ready for SSAIB / NSI Silver, the level of questions you are asking are a little worrying, and should be basic knowledge for at least the 'lead technician' in any such approved company. What you do not want to do is try something out, that you haven't done before, on a live, real customer. Here is a great book on electronics, relays, diodes, etc..., and before you click, NO, I'm not joking, it's how I got started, albeit as a kid, but the book is great for any age; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Introduction-Electronics-Basic-Guide-Beasant/dp/0860208095/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1482522212&sr=8-20&keywords=usborne+electronics

Well indeed. Ask these sort of questions fitting an alarm to your uncles garage, or playing around with an old panel in the shed, not before you start an URNable job! HOWEVER, lets not make the OP run off, saying we are a bunk of w**kers just yet; as that will only propagate the issue...

He'll be getting all het up over connecting the tampers next!

What to make sure the resistance is low enough to actually cause cardiac arrest?

# underneath the arches #

That'll teach any burglars a lesson they won't forget... With the added bonus you can catch up with URN paperwork back at the station.

There is a certain combination of stones and pounds a couple of members find amusing. U crazy guys, lol!

They are good - but will be potentially blinded by the light / triggered by heat gains from those big windows. You definitely want to consider a corner mounted, pointed away from window, dualtech i.e. MW/PIR DT IMHO TBH I only ever use ceiling detectors in wide open office spaces and as a last resort - if I had as good access as you seem to (I wasn't sure if you did being it was a flat) I'd go corners every time. I was going to suggest a ceiling one, maybe, in that living space narrow bit, but I really wouldn't bother, tbh

Nope, most manufactuers don't do door contacts - buy Knights or Elmdene, avoid DIY 'range filler' stuff like Honeywell contacts. I would wire using EOL / FSL so be sure to buy contacts with built in resistors, you will want 2k2 for tamper and 4k7 for alarm. The colour code for Elmdene is 'Red' for those, a lot of the Knights products are more universal. GSM is yesterdays tech, so whilst proper monitoring is always recommended (someone external noting that the actual alarm itself is always talking back, i.e polling) the ComWifi module is very popular - BUT - if this is a 'new build' and you can get wires to the box, I'd go with ComIP and wire it to the router. Saves a lot of greif.

Yes, that's ideal for the controls, and the keypad should be as close to the final exit/entry door as possible. Good idea to add contacts on all the externals if you can. If it was mine, AND the basement door has a door closer AND it's usually left locked, I might put a sensor on the basement door IF there was a spare zone, for what it costs. Although again this would be more in the interests of confirmation since the system itself is protected by the approaches.

Unless you are trying to achieve 'alarm confirmation', which is unlikely on an unmonitored system, I would not be overly concerned about having anything in the living space which appears to have no windows and is only accessible via other rooms with detectors. Ideally, it should be 'hidden'; esp. on an unmonitored system. Also, as it may create a tiny 'buzz' so bedrooms are never recommended. Is the stair cupboard possible? Or even in the 'utility' cupboard / back of cabinet?

Lounge, position 9, and change from pir to dualtech That space where position 5 is, if its bells only I wouldnt bother as none of it is optimal 4 and 2 quad pirs should be fine Position 3 I would fit a door contact rather than pir if poss Dont forget a dummy bellbox at the rear. This is all just top of my head thinking without properly seeing the physical reality of course.