datadiffusion

I think we established it was AlYetis auntie

Does it use TAP format? If so, give up and throw in bin TAP is absolute junk and basically works very intermittantly. ETSI works very well and is directly supported by BT and limited regions of Virgin media (they have no plans to roll out nationwide, they look like mostly former C+W areas rather than UA / telewest areas)

Or the plastic with a hacksaw...

With very few exceptions (like the new Eaton ones, and ancient Risco ones although even they operate[d] in universal mode as well) sounders are 100% universal A SAB type sounder has a 12v permanent supply, inputs for bell and strobe, possible a volt-free 'fault' relay if G3, and something to show the tamper switch is closed, which could be a plain switch through which usually 0V is fed up one side of. Neither are made by the panel manufacturer so the choice of the two will have nothing to do with it being 'native' or otherwise. I would fit the rapier as it's a well made sounder, looks the business even if the sticker one day falls off, and get £70 cashback on the Chubb from ebay, tbh

Don't do yourself down mate, Top blaggers spot

Its true that the 'buyer is always right' must be a godsend for idiots that f**k up panels and say they arrived 'broken'...

I don't have an issue with that, 2 posts is not enough imho

Ideally neither, but in the real world I have systems in both; any airing cupboard ones only due to them being upgrades that can't be moved or customer didn't want to pay to have them moved. I reluctantly put my parents CCTV in the loft, something I would never do for a paying customer, and the brand new UPS batteries were toast within 18 months due to the heat. P.S You are right to secure your CCTV (at a recent raid round here they got off with £50k & kidnapping security staff as they stole the CCTV HDDs too) in your case no-one is going to steal your security equipment, nor in all reaility waste time looking for it, as for the intruder alarm you can see there are many struggling to sell at lossmaking prices...

Cos your a Daily Mail reading, Skrewdriver listening, UKIP stroking racialist -OR- Because you're a detective! You sometimes bend the rules, are a bit maverick - but you get RESULTS!

1st class all the way!

Ok then. to claim your prize head to the nearest Asda cigarette kiosk. Ask loudly and clearly for security installer forum prize code 75863580855799753246549484279575b Any trouble show them your passport, driving licence, and tesco clubcard as ID Enjoy!

No worries happy to help

How about an apple?

Ever thought about changing the wiring to EOL? It would cost pennies (+ about an hour of your time) and save this headache in the future. Have a look at your manual for full details, it's one of the better ones in explaining it in basic terms. EOL means one tamper per circuit and not shared. Thanks for pointing this out, info (such that it was) has been edited. You are this weeks Silver Star pupil.

The night out you won't be having due to doing all this research and fitting though, that might be the reality? Or being called back in the middle of as 'the alarm is going off'... Depends how much you value your own time IMHO. Not trying to put you off but it's a distinct downside of DIYing a security system. Probably more like 'on contract, didn't pay or cancelled mid term, so we pitched up and recovered what we could'.

Make double sure panel is set to CC - remember that the panel won't save some configs until you exit. Set all zones to unused (NU) other than 1 Link out zone 1 and Global Tamper with wires - try to exit engineering - if this doesn't work at this stage, yes, your panel is shagged. Then slowly work backwards enabling each zone one by one, at first replace the zone with a link, then the actual zone. Better yet, meter the zone with a multimeter to see the resistance. 9651PD are known to go corrupt and useless but EN and UK are usually very stable. You need a new battery too as you've already spotted! Easy this security lark innit?

Faulty from new is incredibly rare, and now your replacement has possibly gone faulty -again very rare. So just to be clear are you running the panel as CC Alarm circuits with Global Tamper?

Flash rate was less than 1Hz though, and no doubt they've not held back on the freq. nor current rating of the LEDs, 6 @ 20mA even will be similar. Strobe was always guesstimated at 80-120mA AFAIK on a system, same as a keypad tbh. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Ade/TSRESON8_Install.pdf for an example

I think the loss of SCB is because no-one is using it. The LED probably takes about the same as the strobe did tbh.

Yes, usually. Or a wire link, or jumper etc... Though I note with the very latest Elmdene Quartz backplates (the bells I use) we have gained an NiMh battery (rather than NiCad), lost a xenon tubed strobe and gained an LED strobe, and lost SAB/SCB mode altogether...

SCB can sometimes, very occasionally be of use, I've used it precisely zero times in 20 years! If I'm ever fitting 2 SABs because of low bell height, chance of attracting neighbours at the back etc... then I just up the PSU. Yes wireless bell is, well, just that so no settings to worry about. If you have a single wired bell, SAB is the way to go.

Well, the usual trick would be buy new, swap pcb only, then sell new box with faulty pcb...

Was it new? Was it sold as new?

Quoted for a site with high staff turnover & expensive kit, now true I was there as they didn't need approved as site manned 24/7, but for access they insisted on that exact bloody codelock, would not budge or listen to anything I had to say about prox, benefits of tag per person, casual timekeeping etc... Glad I didn't get the (mostly intruder for the office block) job TBH.

Any garage with a traditional uninsulated up-and-over garage door should not be considered 'sealed'. If the sensor is to be hard wired (assume it will be one of the few detectors within reach of the panel) then, yes, it should be a DT.