datadiffusion

Do you mean, 'will it'. In enigneer mode, in 99% of panels, the bell tamper is ignored whilst in engineer. The biggest exception I know of is older Menvier panels where Eng can 'time out' leaving the delights of warning tones etc... to haunt the user.

Oh yeah its grey alright, but SPC was around pre Siemens takeover, right?

I imagine a Europlex era one, but warranty expired 08/2009 so not that ancient...

I've got an older SPC keypad which has no addressing wheels (but otherwise identical looking to Siemens / Vanderbilt models) There are two ports / pins on the top left rear, one marked 'Z8'. These are present on newer PCBs but without the pins. However, even on the older keypad there are no jumpers fitted (at least on my one) and no numbers marked... How do you set / address these older keypads...?

Make sure it's different to your usual doorbell sound, although judging by how the house sounds I assume that's one of Big Bens cast-offs?

Usually, but not if it's one of those thermal master jobbies, the big white ones that run at mains pressure, they're pretty efficient & cool outside. I still wouldn't myself, though.

Youll struggle to get x10 to work in a house with switched mode psus, rcbos or especially powerline adaptors. I had a play with it in a modern house and struggled to get between 2 rooms without unplugging other equipment. X10 was invented in the 70s and is deader than corduroy flares...

Its true there is so little to actually go wrong with a lump of metal, but plenty to go wrong with a bunch of Chinese silicone...

Aye thats the only thing about e-line, 100x the processing power but back to standard optics...

Having changed battery I'd suggest!

Assume faulty battery has gone very low ohms and is dragging down overall voltage to below 12V, causing a fault?

That's interesting. We have had a 2nd (and only ever with the e-Line DT) FA the other day, there was a large web over, I dismissed this as a cause being it was a Conservatory (which I assumed was the major factor, although, it happened at 3am, hardly primetime for temp changes...) Looking back I should have given it a blast of Spiderex... FA's are so rare since I switched to Siemens (many years ago, started with the IR120) I've almost forgotten what to do!

Wow, professional security gear from a kitchen shop

You can get it on Amazon and it does seem to work

Interesting point, from my POV the Accenta isn't enough (I assume you won't be going for the LCD keypad, and on the Accenta it's a bit of a bodge anyway) and indeed you'll probably find the Gal a bit taxing for a one-off installation. In any case texts over PSTN are next to useless and lines can be cut anyway. If you must DIY I'd suggest as ever a Scantronic 9651. It comes with prox, 8 zones, and an LCD keypad, without outputs for comms etc... if needed. More importantly it comes with proper printed manuals that will explain the concepts of EOL etc... to the layman.

Hello, another one ('collector')?

This bell has no on-board battery, i.e it's not a SAB just a simple bell, so I would highly recommend not using it. Something like a Honeywell Reson8 is available for stupidly little money and will be very easy to wire in. I assume the bell as it's wired is not working? have you proven the bell by connecting to a 12 battery or similar? AFAIK on that Yale tat the strobe was optional so probably goes to nothing (they provided the terminal block but the unit was an optional purchase) and tamper is just a loop or switch on the casing.

Assume the technomate can generate colour bars in any case?

Advanced Access sell the universal model of the paxton reader with weigand op, rebadged, at a third of the paxton RRP.

Videx vprox being used by landlord, fobs being handed out like sweets so every employee has one. Vprox states its a 125kHz system, does it work with Siemens SPC external EM series prox?

I still cant recommend it ever, but at least with your trolley youll know when it no longer works or is getting worse, also if it suddenly fails the worst is you'll have to push. Its also not being constantly charged, or at least, if it was playing up youd be unlikely to plug it in. Of course with the alarm battery there is very little indication of its charge or capacity, and you won't find out until its too late!

If you take one other piece of advice, please, bin the old battery and fit the new one!

Ok, they are soldered yes but never known one actually go faulty, always the spring, or decorators removing the front and the tamper switch block falls out and gets swept up with the rubbish etc...