datadiffusion

Yes, there would be no issue doing that, assuming the load of the bell is low enough (most budget/modern sirens would be). However, you say you have 2 bells so would highly recommend doing current calculations based on actual draw of bells / strobe and capability of the output. The strobe is primarily to warn you that there has been an activation before you go marching into the property, it's unlikely but there could still be a burglar on scene once the bell has stopped (or not started, if on a delay) especially when set to a shorter time, for example all mine are set to 10 mins unless the customer requests otherwise. So, I personally would keep it separate but up to you.

No, you don't.

But a decent setup is going to be around the £500 mark for parts, that leaves £250 worth of your time for all fitting, faultfinding, and 'callbacks'...

And isn't a lot of Vanderbilt (esp. ex Europlex) still based over there?

Now now, we all know the £45 monthly iphone subs & £500 a year on Sky are far more important than securing a £200k house...

I think it's stopped for drink driving?

Agreed. Hope it's OK James, but I've sent sponsorship invites to 5 Star Alarms and ADT - good to have a mix of co's I think.

Nope, someone needs to donate their annual £20 like the rest of us... :cough:

Saw something very odd yesterday, in a bank that's been refurbed about 10 times the last ten years, had a Costa added and removed (hmm, guess which bank...) still has the original 2 zone fire alarm panel. In itself nothing much of a surprise, what got me was that the panel was branded Mercury Communications, the actual phone co. Mercury with the logo and everything. Clearly a proper 80s relic. Assume the big sell was some sort of communicator as standard? Guessing C+W have long ditched the biz during their many demergers too...

Does anyone remember those grey, DIY grade diallers? Mind you RS sold them Like a plain grey box with a cheap telephone keypad in the middle. Smiths Timemaster or something. Used to piss off plod / BT as 999 was blocked but 112 wasn't. Like this one in fact - http://ezimtech.com/smiths-autodialler-p-170743.html Is it just me or is this that link a blatently fake fraudulent web shop BTW?

from Sticky > FAQs

Glad we could help. As a side note, it's good that you've put a 17Ah in but... 1. Some installers find they don't last anywhere near as long as a 7aH in terms of longevity 2. You really didn't need to for an all-wireless system with onely one RKP. To be honest even I wouldn't spec that on a domestic unless they were off-grid etc... But hey ho, well done on not falling for the Yale tat. It's a decent system, and should last for years. When you can afford it I'd add a com-wifi for monitoring.

You would usually have to put the default user code in first before eng access is allowed. Does entering the default user code do anything? What comes up on the screen when you power on? p.s expect the main battery to be shot

Grading is effectively irrelevant if you're DIYing, except from the POV that I would want everything tampered so that means buying G2 as a minimum on components. Apart from door contacts you'd be hard pushed to find anything actually graded as '1' anyway, most tat is effectively ungraded. So yes, the back tamper is sacrificial and essential on wireless, stops the burglar moving the contact and magnet together without causing an alarm and then opening the door. As for the likelyhood of that, it's what a risk assessment is for. There is no right or wrong answer to this. Many graded systems have completely exposed wires for some of all of their run. Again, I would be guided by the environment, but a domestic situation should be fairly self explanatory. Again, grading is irrelevent for DIY systems. If I were you I would NOT tell my insurer. Many people still think that by doing so you get a huge discount; you don't; but what you will get is a voided policy if you tell them you have an alarm but then they find out it wasn't set when you were burgled.

Free video! How 80s.

No. At least, not the company, poss. the designs and assets. But weren't elements of the first Yale made by Scanny? I think siralan was involved via some share swap deal with his Audioline shite phone division. https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/01180330 But the HMI Ltd. name was re-registered in 1989, and is about to be struck off... https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/02347242/filing-history Looking online at Harry Moss International Ltd... Mr Harry Moss Director Aug 1936 Appointed - 18 Mar 1991 Resigned - 23 Jul 2015 Did Harry just die?? https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/qLALdFGhcg3WoE40ix9GpNdzFkM/appointments

"We made our excuses then left" recalls Sgt Harry Gravel, who remains mentally scarred from the event...

The 70s were a bad time for Arf, remember his story of how he got picked up by the police in a Coventry pub that time, who couldn't believe his jokey Irish accent wasn't real and it was very nearly the Birmingham Seven?

Yeah don't worry about James, Ron, lets just say you'll be glad Security Warehouse is mail order though.

Back to grindr again... No Arf was an old timer who was on here for a long while, claimed to have fitted the first PIR, in the SAS part time, once got mistaken for Mick Jagger on a 3am callout to Buckingham Palace, that kind of thing. He disappeared one day and never returned...

Won't work. Power drain will be such that the power kit will cost £££££££s to work. Think of the DVR & HDD pulling at least 1A before you even start on the rest. Will require regular battery maint and checks to make sure there is enough current going in not to discharge & write off the battery. All fine as long as someone is prepared to do it, or pay you, or null any warranty if they don't keep it up. Unless customer is the council with endless budget or you want to be endlessly going back for free, I'd personally walk away rather than waste time quoting.

Is this their access control system?

http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Pyrene_Co

Fair point, Ok lets stick with Ron!

Welcome, can we call you Arf?