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After defaulting the panel, the wiring type will be programmed as double EOL, so any zone that has been looped out with wire, or wired as normaLly closed, which the door contact probably is, will be seen as a tamper. The zone wiring type needs to be programmed as normally closed to conduct the test you have configured.

You're very welcome, glad to help ?

Here's a link to the driver you need: https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm The best option is to select the "Setup Executable" version from the comments column.

Hi Ives, Your problem of the alarm sounding when the power is removed is caused by a defective backup battery within the panel and the sounder on the wall then activates using it's own built in battery due to the loss of power to it from the panel so opening the panel and disconecting the backup battery will not stop the sounder activating when mains power is removed. Ideally you need to replace the backup battery and the sounder will then remain silent when the mains power is off. If you can't / don't want to replace the panel backup battery, then it will mean a trip up a ladder to the external sounder and disconnecting it's own internal battery or the sounder component itself to keep it silent when the power is off. The first option of replacing the panel battery would be much better in the long term. Brian

The 48w should have a Battery charge current selection jumper on the PCB, just to the left of the flash programming port and below the battery fuse F2. There shouldn't be any sounder battery faults shown on the panel for no sounder battery connection for a grade 2 sounder but grade 3 sounders do signal a battery fault to the panel - assuming it's wired correctly!

The times quoted by Texecom are 4 years with the comfort LED's off or 2 years with them on. How that compares with reality will remain to be seen...