secureiam

single post and hes gone......

This was working before you changed your code, then stopped working after you changed your code? I would get an engineer out based on the assumptions already made, as I don't feel you should be tinkering?

flasher module and usb com at present

I also agree with Jim.

sometimes i think it would help

very helpful guys, poor guy is probably really confused now.

if the psu is under warranty then it shouldn't be costing anything? This PSU issue has been on and off since they released the panel with it how many years ago, not convinced its robust enough or the QC from whoever supplies it isn't good enough (I am guessing its not made by Texecom)? . as said previously a reset is all that should be required unless faulty whats interesting is the mains off clears on its own when its restored, leaving the 12V fault, why don't they both clear when restored?

I would take a pictures at both bells to show wriing, I think you haven't done the MSW link right. you take out the msw2 wire, link that wire to the spare, run the spare into msw1 on2nd unit with that bells msw1 bell wire still in place . (two wires in msw1 on second unit, the original wire an the spare you ran from the first bell). do the bell test and both units should fire up, as they are they are the E models power shouldn't be an issue

the cost of production, but what about his insurance, taxes, vehicle and tools. suspect he made a loss and inflation well.....lol aren't all exams multi lingual now?

I would read the apps disclaimer regarding notifications and service guarantee before you consider relying on the app for alarm notifications.

Veritas 8/R8/8 compact veritas LED keypad Veritas R8+/ Excel veritas LED and LCD keypad not sure about the other Veritas panels like the Digitas, seem to recall they had a veritas led styled keypad with premier written on it but cant be certain,

had a lot of fun with these initially. certainly outside the dhcp pool makes life easier, making sure nothing can automatically connect to the com wifi ssid seems to keep it focused. wrt to the app, change the polling to 1 minute and it soon updates the ip, or with notifications on send an event via the keypad and it will be updated. the polling changes between 5 minutes(in engineering) and 15 minutes normally. as for routers, I have had issues with talk talk routers not liking the app on an external network so had customers with both a local and external connection. as for the notifications themselves I have a system with a comip and a GSM, gsm is only set for alarm events at the minute but find it more reliable than the app. Find the Risco cloud much more reliable and instant for notifications over The Texecom App, but I digress theres good and bad in all things,

Hi Adrian, cant comment on the future, cant see it now, but improvements are always welcome, as would be the reliability of notifications but I digress. Security can always be bypassed and hacked by someone that is a geek(knowledgeable person)if they have the will and the time to spend. I certainly welcome the steps made to make things more secure has to be a good thing and the lesser geek isn't likely to give it a go in a hurry.

The setup though is long winded for everything, although getting quicker at doing al the individual steps. its encrypted now, previously it was displayed as plain text as the article explains. The app currently giving my customers more grief with the current android parsing issue.

Welcome and good luck

workable is good enough but always want better.

seriously things change and nothing is perfect, never will be. Just have to be careful of what you wish for.

had people call seeing the van out and about and the number is pretty easy to read and a QR code on the back to scan in so they don't even need to write it down. adverts on leaflets need a call to action, but in general terms I am not in a rush to do any more leaflets the better they look and catch the eye the better chance they will be read. think leaflets aren't a bad idea if you do a job and put a few round the neighbours, that doesn't take long and usually has better results especially if your bell box is on the property. Had a few that have seen my bell box on a house and then looked me up. even tried going to areas where the police were regularly reporting burglaries and hardly any takers from leaflets, except the ones that actually got robbed and or their immediate neighbours.

disagree I know certain groups of people with plenty of gold and large sums of cash and have Yale alarm systems , not to mention designer gear and top end gadgets. They don't understand that all alarm systems are not created equally.

Its only a matter of time before someone decides to target the Yale systems with the equipment suggested. As for skill, sounds like there are affordable means to look at a viable cost effective burglar solution to disarm the alarm. There are enough Yale systems out there. I am sure they could collect enough valuables in a few minutes with no alarm being raised to make it a burglar consider the option. Would it boost people to consider getting a proper alarm installed? possibly if someone started targeting the Yale alarm panels.

what are the address switches on the expander set to? what are the network leds doing? wired up network in on the 8XP?

as above

if the panel is in engineers mode you will be able to open it up and test the panel without triggering the alarm. The tamper in series doesn't need to be sorted to test the current draw, it does need to be done to make the tampers work correctly.

also when was the panels backup battery last changed/ tested, as 2007 its probably gone.

You need to know what power your system draws in alarm and when its not in alarm. The bell fuse is rated at 1A on the Veritas, so 2 x XBE would be below 900mA so wouldn't need need either power saving mode of LC or SCB for them to operate correctly, however an XE would be above 1A in alarm for 2 units. The question will come down to what you have on it and what it draws in total. The bells are probably the biggest single draw, followed by the battery being charged, the keypads followed by your PIR's. I would replace both your current bells with the XBE's and that's less draw than you had previously and comfortably within the available limit, worst case you could drop one to LC if it did struggle, but it shouldn't.