WDT

No more

What about a on board expander theres a plug on version that adds 8 zones or there is a 4 zone one that uses up 2 keypad address's I would go for the 8 zone out of choice in case of future upgrades

Yep Is the keypad near to either door as there are two zone inputs on the keypad that you could use for either front or rear door that would then give you ten zones i.e Zone 1 on keypad door contact Zone 2 on keypad vibration circuit

I noticed the header, I am not sure if i should be glad or upset i dont have a custom header

Hi and welcome dont worry about your typing it keeps the admin and mod guys busy

I don't know if to laugh or cry on the 12 core subject,

On the pir's lets go with zone connection on alarm contact next to the power connection and the other zone connection goes the other end off the block where it says tamper the two connections in the middle are unused as you have a resistor setup and are not using double pole . I hope this makes sense

Ok as for the magnet if it reads 2k2 secure then this is only seeing the tamper resistor and not the reed one. I would first check the reed works with a multimeter on the reed contacts and then open the door and recheck the resistance with no resistor fitted it will be out range (door Open) and 0.00 ( door closed) If you leave the resistor in it will be 0.0 door closed and 4700 ohms (door open) Hope this helps

They do need to go in the correct ones and you are right it is one in each which pirs do you have??

Also thinking what zone resistance are you getting this would help the experts, it might even help me The magnet/reed could be tested with a multimeter on ohms check what readings you get with the door open at the contact then shut the door and recheck with no resistors fitted in will be out of range with the door open and 0.00 ohms with the door shut

I would say its the way you have wired the door contacts as you have the reed output ( Door Magnet ) tamper output ( case removed ) and also a vibration output. If you put the 4k7 resistor in the contact conections and the 2k2 resistor from the contact connection to a tamper connection Then connect the zone wires, one in the "spare" tamper connection and one in the contact connection with only one resistor leg in. this will make the door contact work but not the vibration. I am not a site expert or any kind off expert but I would put the vibration on another zone Now if you are going to go with vibration on the same zone Ok so lets say put a zone wire into top connection reed switch with a resistor 4k7 between both reed switch connections, then a link wire to the bottom alarm wire with a 4k7 resistor between both alarm connections, then the 2k2 resistor between the alarm ( not the one with the wire link in the one with) and the bottom tamper connection and the other tamper connection to the other zone connection. Also the cover will need to be on when you test it

Hi and welcome

I would have put fit young blond with multi skills 21 - 30 can work well with hands I belive 5 posts gets you P.Ms

Nice door, Need to get the contract to fit them and make some money

If oldguy wanted everything back at the panel he just don't use the keypad zones. the texecom panel has a onboard expander that can be fitted in side the panel so it will give him 16 zones if then he wanted, He could add a extenal expander at a later time making the zone count to 24, But it looks like 16 will cover his needs at the moment. or he could go for a galaxy

The texecom 24 control panel has 8 on board zones in the control and each keypad has a further 2 zones, So control and keypad gives you 10 zones control and two key pads gives you 12 zones You could put a expander in the control panel making the panel have 16 zones plus the keypad ones example zones 1 - 8 in control panel zone 9 -16 expander 17 and 18 keypad 1 19 and 20 keypad 2 I hope this makes sense It looked good to me

Hi Matt Welcome to the site. I am looking at alarm master you can go to there web site and download a trial once you have given them your details with a one month trial, if you like it theres a discount for the first year Wayne

Hi and welcome, I was going to be clever and do this whole post in french but to be honest i only know bonjour,

I saw one of them the other day I will have a look tommorow but will need a new battery as it must be 900 years old.

Hi and welcome

I just checked Ford with free car mat's is number 7 in reliabilty yet Bmw who charge you for mat's are number 28. So I would spend my money on a more reliable ford. Good news BMW are not at the bottom as there is 39 manufacturer's I was going to post a link but was not sure if i was allowed. Please don't bit my head off. But I would rather have a ford that works then a bmw that breaksdown ( Just saying )

Montex issue ?? Do you mean setting up? If you put nothing on com port one it should still work.

Hi Check in wintex you have the Ip address and port number set the same as the panel and com ip address in the Edit account (panel details) In wintex check your UDl password in the comms section options is set to the same as your panel. Have you set up you panel with the com IP on com port 2 and is it programed in the panel and check your UDL passcode in your panel. Was the panel powered down when you connected it. It is sometimes worth to power the panel down and back up. I know someone is going to say why com port 2 (becouse I like that one)

I have two 12v sockets one is live all the time. I use the one thats live to charge things like my phone. modified a halfords one with a live taken from the battery (via a Fuse) No ign on, van can be locked as well. With the ign on your current drain/draw is at about 3.5 to 5 amps some times more, The landrover range rover is 9 amps. but does have a 950 amp 110 ah AGM battery.

Only the french have lost the plot. they seem to be the only ones at the moment with eco mode. If you breakdown put your windows up if they are electric as after it goes into eco mode you end up with open windows untill its fixed ha ha ha ha