Mark02

Quick pic of control box with rough plan of layout.

Most of our machines we work on run canbus and up to five controller pcb's. Some machines have one canbus while a few have up to 4. The bigger machines now have pcb's with multiple Sfet's and many limit switches which are configured in pairs of 1 x operational and 1 x safety. The JLG's have secondary guarding which is designed to stop the operater elevating himself into a roof or object above him, if he does a pressure bar is activated and the machine reverses itself down by about a foot to stop crushing. All this technology just to get somebody up X amount of feet to change a light bulb

Ha Ha ..... Dunno if I'm totally sure LOL

Because in the installation manual green and white are shown as power while red/black are alarm circuits (to zones) so I decided to stick to those colours so if I ever have to reference back to installation book it all matched up. I see your point though. It don't seem right does it LOL

The internal speaker siren terminals are T - T - BA - SPX - 12v - 0v . The supplied instructions say tamper shold be connected in series with the system tamper loop. Also says 12v+, 12v- and BA should be wired in parallel with external bellbox (which I probably am not going to use .... local council don't like them).

That's great. Yeah the wiring needs tidying up but it was only for bench test. I have some really small heat shrink I can use when I actually fit everything. Couple of things. Can I heat shrink the whole resistor or is it better to just cover the wires? Also, with the internal sounder (pyronix twin speaker/siren) and external bell (if I fit the external) what happens with the wiring when I'm using EOL. Do I still connect as normal including tamper circuit to pcb or do they also need resistors and omit tamp wires ?

No probs mate. 22k across outside terminals (Alarm ??) and 10k from right screw to where red wire is.

What just happened to my last post ?

Ahhh ............. Just as well I posted pic before fitting everything then Thanks James. How come it all worked OK on the bench? And I better take a pic of the door contact to see if that's right Oh well .... At least I'm closer than I was yesterday

Just a quick picture of one the PIR's wired up (first attempt and it worked). 22k Resistor across alarm and 10k alarm to tamper / EOL (I'm sure one of you will correct my terminology) I'll add more pics as I go through install which I'm doing in sections over the next few weeks.

SUCCESS

No it's a good question with many considerations to take into account. We often take on apprentices and people from other areas of engineering (fork lift engineers, plant engineers, cranes engineers etc etc) and some can absorb the technical side while other cannot. We get a lot of wanna be engineers trying and often failing in our industry. I am all for letting people try and for them to learn but some people just don't have the right skill set (a bit like me with EOL for example) It's no good taking on people who do not like heights, You have to test these machines and it cannot be done solely from ground control panels. The main consideration on the access machines is you have to remember people will be working at height for hours at a time and our job is to not only make sure the machine is reliable but ultimately SAFE and fit for purpose. This would be the show stopper for say an alarm engineer working on our machines. It's one thing if I mess un an alarm install but a different game altogether if you was to mess up one of our machines because you could potentially kill somebody (operator, other people in the work area etc etc)

Challenging at times to be honest but yes it is interesting. No day is the same and you always learn something new. The technology is moving forward in leaps and bounds as well which is sometimes hard to keep up with. We now have systems where you can "Swipe" in/off with your IPAF card or CSCS card to use the machine. We can log in from the office and tell who has used any given machine, what time they started, when they finished and also if say a company goes pop and they have machines on hire, lease etc we can remotely disable the machines from the office. The system also give you in depth report on service status, high running temps, oil condition etc etc. We work on machines up to 70 meters high.

What going up 125 foot or fixing it LOL

LOL .... OK enough now OK. The panel is double insulated I presume and I also presume the earth connected to euro block is there just for testing

Good advice. Could I do what sixwheelbeast suggested and set it up on worktop, then wire in just the keypad and one door contact, test that then remove it and try a pir ??? Can I do this with just battery power ...obviously the battery would need full charge. It's for a JLG 1250 Ultraboom (cherry picker). One of these. Which by the way is controlled by logic controllers and envelope systems to stop it tipping over

I will bookmark thread and over next couple of weeks post back to let you know how I got on and maybe a few install picks. I am sure somebody else might find this handy (unless your an install engineer that fitting alarms comes easy to) Just for an example here is a schematics of one machine I work on. This is a part page and there is another 17 sheets go with it. I have a Pcon 64 fault. Can anyone tell me where the fault lays (possible 3 answers)

It's not that I am not listening and never said I know better so please keep opinions to yourself if you cannot be civilised. If you don't want to help DiYers then why have a forum for them or choose to participate in it's content.

It's a mile away from what I do. I work on electrical/hydraulic systems for lifting equipment and plant. It's low voltage but everything nowadays is controlled by ECU's, PCB's and motor controllers. Most of it is plug and play and set up with laptops and/or analysers. I don't really get involved in resistors, diodes and similar 'electronics' if that makes sense. It's basically car electronics on an advanced level.

OK. Point well taken

As I already said I really appreciate your help, advice and honesty. I went for a wired system for reliability, cost and lesser maintenance over a wireless system (batteries for example). I paid £145 for the system (new) with 100mtrs cable, 3 x pir's, 2 contacts, battery and the Pironix twin alert internal siren. Now I fully understand your comments about quality but most people like me would be in Homebase or B&Q paying over £200 for a Yale or similar wireless system. I just feel I wanted something better. I read loads of reviews on the Excel, weighed those up against cost which led me to my choice. If I wanted to spend a lot more I would have been speaking to you guys over the phone to get supply and install quotes and TBH me installing this alarm is better than no alarm. I am not worried about it being monitored and not really that fussed about the dialler. I have good neighbours and my train of thought with the internal siren is make as much noise as possible in the hope it will either scare off any would be intruders (most of which in my area are opportunists) and also alert my neighbours who most of which have my mobile. The police where I live rarely attend burglar alarms so I could probably respond a lot quicker. I still might go for the resistors and yes I did notice the manual saying about putting them on the PCB. If not I'll wire it globally. I could miss out one of the door contact (planned for front door/zone one entry/exit) If I could position a pir above door knowing it wouldn't be triggered by post, junk mail and newspapers coming through letter box. Doubt it with the issues neighbour has had with them. I want to install myself. I like the challenge