Jump to content
Security Installer Community

Mark02

Member
  • Posts

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark02

  1. So going by your replies am I just better off using global tamper (after all that) Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate your help and advice. It's a self fit home alarm after all and as long as it makes a lot of noise then that's good by me. Is anyone in the area I live going to be clever enough to break in and disable the alarm (and get past the dog) ? I very much doubt it but it's a new install and I may as well install it as best as I can so it's effective. I intend to (at a later date) purchase and install a text/speech dialler, panic button outside the bedrooms (mainly if kids are at home alone) and possibly look at linking smoke/heat detectors (to save me keep changing the batteries in my £10 B&Q jobbies I currently have).
  2. Hi James Not doubting anyone. Just trying to absorb info. I'm not an alarm engineer by a long shot and have never heard of EOL. I like to learn things and have a go myself hence I do lots of questions, reading etc before I play with things and do more damage than good. I will never make a living out of this (can you tell) I did the same when I first put stair carpet down in my house. Done all the rooms but didn't have a clue where to start going down the steps LOL I have just found this image on another forum and it's specific to the Excel unit I have. It shows 2 x contacts where as I am only doing one at a time. Looking at this it makes sense I think with an EOL resistor and a shunt resistor. I presume I need to follow the right hand side contact in this image including the fitting of the 10k inline. If this is right can I connect the 10k under the left screw or does it go externally to the contact block ? Edited to include image
  3. If you read through manual, page 13 quotes the following. Other info below that if that helps. EOL Loop Threshold Low (closed) Resistance - 10kΩ, 1% High (open) Resistance - 33kΩ, 1% (or 10kΩ+22kΩ
  4. One diagram is taken from manual the other is one of my one artistic pieces No zone types, just the S/C and O/C shown in one of the earlier posts. Look, No matter what panel I would have purchased somebody somewhere would have said I should have got something else. I can get the resistors I have into the contacts and Pir's I have. I just really need to knows how to connect them
  5. So using this method I should be doing something like this ? Just need to sort out the location of that other resistor
  6. Mark02

    eolwires

    From the album: Misc Images

  7. Mark02

    HSO3d

    From the album: Misc Images

  8. OK ..... Reading lots and trying hard so lets see if I am getting a grip on this. If I use EOL and I don't want to use a zone I link it out with a 10k resistor. YES/NO ?? According to Figure 3d in manual, I need to place a 22k resistor on each device. Am I going to only wire each pir with 4 wires (power +/- white/green and 2 x alarm cables red/black) and resistor goes across red and black and not use yellow and blue. Door contacts the same but no aux power feed needed, leave them also as spares. If so, where does the 10k in figure 3d go? Please tell me I'm getting close
  9. OK .... I'm reading manuals and websites as I come back at you all so bear with me. My pir's are Texecom Premier Compact IR's (part number ACD-0001) and my door contacts are CQR (SC517 ... basic ones with no micro switch according to manual which is near on impossible to read even with my glasses on ) The Veritas manual says to wire door contacts (I have 5 screws in my contacts) Red and Black zone wires to the 2nd and 4th connections on contactor and then both yellow and blue to 5th connector. I am presuming the yellow and blue are normally tamper circuit which when using global tamper are wired along with other devices in series (via a choc block) into tamp circuit on PCB. The Veritas manual then tells me to wire PIR's with 6 wires. Red and black to alarm, white and green to 12v / 0v, and again blue and yellow to tamp. So, with EOL what's the difference as I presume the wiring above is for using global tamp. Do I just NOT use the yellow and blues anywhere and leave them tucked away as spare wires? And where do the resistors go. In the contactors and in the pir units themselves? The system has been supplied with 10k, 22k and 33k resistors. What goes where? Also in the settings I have misc options (S/C = Tamper) and (O/C = Tamper) both with on/off options. According the manual it shows Normally Closed Operation = OFF/OFF, American Operation = ON/OFF, European Operation (one detector per zone) = OFF/ON and then High Security Operation (one detector per zone) = ON/ON. To make things easier for me I am using one cable run per detector (ie; each detector will have it's own zone. 3 x PIR's and 2 x Door Contacts. Thus 5 x cable runs for the detectors. I then have the LCD keypad, internal speaker/siren (Pyronix Twin) and bellbox. I have purchased 6 core cable (in hind sight I should have got 8 but have 100mtrs of 6 core now so it will have to do. HA HA That's one of the above things answered then I've been typing for last 10 minutes
  10. I am an engineer by trade and work on low voltage/hydraulic systems so as DIYer's go I am quite good with wiring so after a spate of housing being broken into around my area I have decided to fit a burglar alarm. I used to have a pants wireless system but got bored changing batteries so ripped it out. I have just received a Texecom Veritas Excel system complete with door contacts, bell box, PIR's and an internal dual sounder/speaker. I have read the installation manual, understood most of it with ease BUT then came to the page about EOL, resistor etc Now I have never come across this before so for this I am going to need help. I can fit everything where I want it, run all the cables, do the programming ..... just not the EOL without good advice. The way I sort of understand it is that EOL increase security and when a device is tampered with the keypad/system will tell me what device has been tampered with. I also read it as the tamp option on the PCB is not used so bridged out. I am sure somebody will laugh at me and swiftly correct me if above is wrong. So do I need EOL, is it more secure and more reliable, any pro's or con's to consider and I suppose the key thing where do the resistors go and how do I wire them. I have also read online about shunt resistors ..... are these related/needed.
  11. Engineer by trade, part time DIYer .... Avid fisherman, novice photographer.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.