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james.wilson

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Everything posted by james.wilson

  1. james.wilson
    Im more suprised its not setup how you want, ie spelling issues etc, being shot is SA does not
  2. james.wilson
    Lol
  3. james.wilson
    Pete is that why when the wind blows I swear I hear gun's?
  4. james.wilson
    Id suggest you start a new topic about this
  5. james.wilson
    When first powered up its in a test mode showing open circuits. Once you clear them all it will then go to rest / day mode. One option is to remove all circuit wiring (marking up first and take a photo) then link out all to prove the panel. If the panel functions with all circuits, tampers etc closed then you have a base point to start from
  6. james.wilson
    on power up from new (if you reset it then its the same sort of thing) it will show active circuits till you press a button etc. Whats concerning me is the fact its not accepting the default code. If its that old it wont have an engineer code. Just the user code.
  7. james.wilson
    It is knocking on though an optima compact gen4 isnt exactly much. Old yes useless maybe not, worth spending much time on, no. But depends how much you need it and how important reliability is. Is also god a horrid cheap battery on it that certainly wont help if it was ever 2.2Ah id be astounded
  8. james.wilson
    you have the wrong manual thats an original compact as it only has 6 zones.
  9. james.wilson
    could be a g3, id upload a pic of it.
  10. james.wilson
    It looks like you have used a optima gen4 manual on a non gen4 optima. What optima do you have? If its pre xm you may have just blown it
  11. james.wilson
    Does it need manager Auth for udl
  12. james.wilson
    Assuming you have set the relevant circuit correctly then it may have an nvm issue. It's very old now
  13. james.wilson
    agreed but 2000 ohms is a lot. I would expect it to be the pir but if you test the tamper switch at 200 ohms this will confirm, testing set on 200k wont show a high reading. It should be very close to 0.3 ohms (not 0.3 K Ohms) plus whatever size the built in series resistor ir (not the ones in the terminals) you could try adding something to the red dot to adjust the close point if the case is slightly twisted
  14. james.wilson
    You want to be on 200 ohms not 200k for the short tests
  15. james.wilson
    Put your meter on 200 ohms. Yes short the blue and yellow to check the cable but I'd expect a connection or the tamper switch the reading should be steady and not fluctuate
  16. james.wilson
    Disconnect the circuit at the panel and meter the tamper pair on the sensor. The tamper switch is the red dot. Then short the cables at the pir and measure the resistance at the panel
  17. james.wilson
    texecom do a standalone reciever so do eaton (scantronic) But id want a control panel for logging, locking out, resetting etc
  18. james.wilson
    Hkc, honeywell, vanderbilt
  19. james.wilson
    Are you sure you have an external sounder? Most adt systems are just empty boxes outside
  20. james.wilson
    or go for mesh. Im looking at the netgear orbi for my place
  21. james.wilson
    Do you have a remote psu or seperate rf reciever?
  22. james.wilson
    As above if an intruder alarm fails to perform your insurance company would claim from the maintaner. Thats why Insurance companies want an approved company as they have to have the specialist insurance for this. As such systems are locked down to prevent an innocent change to the config actually having unforseen problems. So without that you may not have a valid insurance cover
  23. james.wilson
    You using for cctv or access control? Also you might be better off posting on the trade side
  24. james.wilson
    If its for fixing cables in a fire proof way etc then yes spit nailer. You can get hardened nails for the battery mailers but I've never tried them
  25. james.wilson
    agreed looks like a big blustu, maybe an isdn one? also looks more like outputs in use apart from pin 1. Is it on a Fire panel? However just a heads up not sure it ever passed CE
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