james.wilson

Yeah should be fine

about 30 months not quite 3 years I didnt but you ma want a bracket. I use the pet lens too

rf ones mounted to places i cant get cables to for lighting and app alert as tech zones

still do, no gunk tho

T/EE = timed exit or final door terminate. final door means setting will complete when the final door is closed on leaving ET = exit terminate. Push to set button. Wont set till its pressed EE = final door Entry 1 normal entry time, on expiry entry 2 time will start but will give an internal alarm. At the expiry of timer 2 full alarm (Bells and comms) I dont know but id assume it will fire the external bells when disarmed if on. Default would be internal alarm only for tampers if disarmed

No problems reported or no problems etc. Have a read of this https://www.pentestpartners.com/security-blog/hacking-wireless-house-alarms/ There are others on yale etc users don't have 'problems' either but I doubt you could recommend stuff on that basis?

Well as your recommending stuff maybe know something about them? Also how do you rate the range and security of the pyronix 2 way option vs the hkc?

I don't think scantronic have a 2 way rf option.

Have you got anything to prove the 232 converter is working. Back on the day when I used 232 getting the right adapter set to the right bit rate etc was a pain. I used to have an old xp laptop with a hardware 232 port for this purpose

USB 232?

Cliff Richard was raided by the police on live tv

not as such. old audi didnt have a dpf

no its a hard d3 but after the current work close to

yep and a dodgy volvo

As above need to know what it is. You have basically asked 'my car is broke any ideas what is wrong'

What was the indication on the keypad?

has to be excess or gone...

Where do you think brand new adt stock comes from?

ademco bought microtech, honeywell bought ademco

it was originally a microtech

What you trying to do with it. I don't use the flex but I'd of thought it would see it an external ethernet one on the data line