QSXS

Texecom's are fantastic, but not for a Beginner / Novice. For smart phone control you will need a Smartcom, for SMS a Com2400, You can also fit a speech module. Texecom does have the advantage of a Full Wireless Keypad, but personally, I prefer to fit a wired version and see it alive. Same with the bell, much nicer to be alive. But plan for a world of pain as a beginner. Pyronix have a good reputation, much simpler and cheaper. Some kits also come with a WiFi Module Included. You can also get a wireless setting station or just use the Remote controls. I beleive you can also fit a wired full display Keypad to the enforcer if you wish. I would suggest you go with the Pyronix Enforcer. p.s. Have you considered getting a professional installation quote, because it may just not be worth the hassle doing it yourself. It's more likely to be done right and you have a channel of recourse if it fails to perform. Hope this helps. Ian

This question brought back some memories. I started playing with alarms when I was about 5 years old, started with disassembling a Yellow AND Black Bike Siren that made Police, Ambulance and fire sounds(Anyone remember these?). Being a bit of a hoarder, I still have bits of it. If you are new to electronics, then 555 timers are a great starting point. 556 is a dual version. Also LMC555 and TS555 are CMOS low power versions, so you can use batteries and they will last ages, if you get the circuit right. Your other friend in discrete logic is the HEX Schmitt Trigger CD40106B. You can make timers, clocks, latches, sirens and lots more with these. However, In today's world, you really need to be looking at uC like Atmel & PICs. You can buy an Arduino Micro Pro with a ATmega32U4 for under £5 and has enough processing power to sink a small battleship. At the DIY level, you would need very few parts to build a good alarm system, you can add a £3 ESP8266 to it, and you would have a Wifi enabled system.(But you will need to get good at coding and that's a good skill to have.) On a professional level, alarm systems have a little more to their design than just logic. Most alarms today, used ADC's on there I/O and measure the circuit resistance to be able to detect Tamper, Alarm and Faults. Also components like EMI Filters, ESD and Surge Suppressors. Watchdog and Current Monitoring. On top of this is a whole load of Firmware, Software and Testing. Hope this helps.

I am not saying its not but what is your justification?

To play devils advocate, what does it give you.? Under normal e&e, it's in Access. If you come through the window / hole in the door, possible a few second quicker notification, before ingression into one of the other zones. Possible false alarms from the letter box if fitted. I guess it guards the RKP and would also provide an extra point if alarm conformation is required. Although, I can think of one benefit from a system I did last month, as an Entry trigger in Part Arm that simplifies the functioning when using two Areas and local RKP arming. Without the trigger, the whole system would disarm.

I would be looking as spanning the system across multiple switches, servers and some form of fallback redundancy. So a single Switch / Server fault does not take you whole system down.

You have not shown a contact on the Front Door, I don't know what other think, but I would have the contact on the front door and lose the hall PIR. IMO, it does not offer much value.

Press Chime, The Zone LED should show you which Zone have Chime set, Press the zone number on the keypad to toggle it on/off, Press reset to exit. Let me know if it works. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/file/49-accenta-optima-gen-4-user-manual/ Optima_Compact_User.pdf

I would agree with sixwheeledbeast, best to face inwards, also your plan does not show an radiators,heating ducts, stoves etc, that should also be considered. And, I would be very careful of the PIR in the hall, if you have a letter box in the door. You have not indicated the location of the panel, but if you are putting it in the utility room, it could be at risk of tampering from intrusion by the fitted window. But you would be protecting against a professional. .

When people stop buying Anti Virus sofware, there develop more viruses!

I wonder why that is.

I am quite new to Texecom, but I find Wintex quite good, I would hate to have to program a system by the RKP, But It am get better at it. I am assuming you are talking about a Elite 24 running V3.01. I am assuming you are connecting Z1 to Alarm and Z2 to Tamper, or are you using the AUX Fault for the Tamper? Although, I would question if you have rewired the system, why you are not using the EOL wiring??? )(Unless you have more than 3 Contacts per circuit). The diagnosis is much more intuitive with this configuration. Connect and open the Diagnosis, You can view the all the zone resistances in this window. If you are still stuck, I would be happy to look at your config, just PM me. Also Texecom Support is very good. (assuming you are an installer?)

I disagree that's is less flexible, I would say it more flexible in the terms of (SOFT), the Sheath tends to be thinner, Wire insulation thinner and Wire is more more fragile. There is also OK. CCA and **** CCA, if you must buy CCA, get CQR CCA. As DD says, Just spend the extra fiver on proper copper, it much more robust and forgiving.(As DD), You only need one roll.

So is it working correctly or not? You really need to post pictures. If you are training to be an alarm fitter / engineer, you need to vastly improve your basic electronics and fault finding skills. I am assuming you are employed, if you are, you going to be Sugared, very soon, if you do not get your head around it. I do not know if this is a real job or a training exercise? Is the Sensor New out of a sealed box? Because, if I wanted to test a rookie, I work give them a busted sensor and see if they can fault find it. The AED-0001, has 2 reeds in parallel. If this has been given to you as a test, you might have one of the reeds Open Circuit. Do a magnetic range test. Fix it to the middle of a bit of wood or table, put an ohm meter across the reed terminals(Nothing else). Place the magnet on the left with the tops aligned, As per section 7 of the Installation Instructions(INS324), Very Slowly move the magnet away, keeping the tops aligned. Mark with a pencil, the point the continuity breaks. Now repeat moving it closer again. Stop and mark the point the continuity returns. Now repeat for the other side of the sensor. Now measure the distantes of the make / break marks both sides. Both sides show be similar and should be with the values quoted in Section 7. Come and share you finding on here, also take a picture. This should take not more than 15 Minutes and you will learn a little about the behavior of reed switches, make / break distances and the hysteresis(Google it). If you have a bad reed, the measurements will show it.

Actual, I mentioned in post #2!!!, But I think he had a combination of issues. I also pointed out the Spec for the Gap in post #33 Thats why I was asking what Gaps was and is now. Sorry Bvesh, but you going to get a little stick for it!!

Bvesh, Congratulations.. So how big was the gap? And what is it now?