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Ah I've been looping the conductor around the screw and clamping the screw down on top of it, almost turning the conductor itself into a ring crimp if you get me? Good take away that about looping round then trimming, cheers. I've give the cover a few taps/ pushes/ pulls and triggered/ reset the button itself a few times and it seems to be behaving, so maybe it was just a case of loose terminations and biting into the conductor a bit too much tightening the first time, it's only been the leaf tamper/ open screw terminal/ wraparound screw terminals I've had any issues with - I wish lever connectors were more commonly installed in everything!

They do look a bit rough admittedly, I was using a terminal driver that probably was too small for the job on the terminals, re-tightened with a better, broader flathead though. I gave them a bit of a twist to make sure they stayed in form as they went around the screw but nothing too savage, I did consider ring crimping but I think they'd have been too big to fit between the terminals, or at least interfere with the cover fitting/ tamper leaf clearances, and the cores are that small the crimps could've just added to the problem. Been sat at 2.19k for the past few hours now so see what happens in a few days time...!

Not really much else place to put it since the keypad is essentially "boxed in" by CH pipes and LV cabling, any other location would've put it too close to LV cabling or put it straight across CH pipework unfortunately, but yeah it will be a pain to get the RKP off, didn't think of that! Fingers crossed that doesn't start playing up. Had a ratch around on the connections and it looks like one of the cable cores was a little shredded where I'd tightened it down too much, remade it off and checked the other terminations, see what happens. If it goes again I'll go the double pole route I think, got enough play in the cable. I metered across each termination and the resistances seemed stable, but I take the point about the potential for damaging the ceramic. One thing I noticed was some of the magnetic material had come loose from the mount on the PA button shaft, I do wonder if enough of that flapping about could have caused the reed to mooch around a bit. I did notice when tightening down there was almost an inverse bell curve between resistance and tightness, too loose and the resistance was high (obviously), just about finger tight and the resistance was spot on, another quarter turn and it started going up towards 3k/4k again. Cheers for the input! Easier actuation than pulling down the keypad cover and aiming for numbers, generally more recognisable function/ device and easier to operate when unfamiliar with the system. Same reason emergency stops are a thing.

As requested!

3 zones needing a revisit on a freshly wired and installed Premier Elite 48 isn't that bad is it! :^) The JB (added a bit more to the tamper actuator) and first PA (tightening the cover a bit more) seems to be fine now to be honest, just that remaining pesky PA that I'm hoping will be resolved by a bit of tightening up.

I normally burn a few resistors to keep away the spirits too...

I'll take the cover off the PA that recently activated and give everything a retighten and check (and make sure the cover is tightened down proper) but yeah I think if it fails soak I'll put in a G3 microswitched replacement instead.

I'm beginning to think the leaf tampered stuff is more trouble than it's worth definitely... The two products are the Knight KP4 G2 Double Push PA button and Knight 8 - Way Junction Box. The Knight KP4 is wall mounted in a hallway, nowhere near any EM fields that could interfere with the reed, not in sunlight or above a heater or anything but it drops a few degrees at night, had one random activation where it went up to 4k and wavered for a bit between 3k/4k and then settled back down to 2k, but I did notice when installing if you don't screw them down tight enough the tamper resistance can slowly drift/ creep. The Knight JB mounted at high level in a garage, again nowhere near any EM fields that could induce EMF, not in sunlight etc. but the timing of the fault coincided with when the sun would start heating the garage up (again a few degrees, nothing huge). Same case of random activation(s) where it'd go up to 4k but this happened a few times. Took off the cover, cut a bit more out of the JB where a small grommit entered just in case this was expanding and pushing the cover up a bit, added a bit more to the tamper actuator so it had more travel, this seems to have done the job and not had any more issues for X weeks now. The timing might just be coincidence in terms of temperature fluctuations but not really any clue on anything else that could've caused it, the rest of the installation (around 20 other wired FSL zones) is rock solid and the cabling itself tests fine. I have a few more of the same products installed elsewhere on the property and had zero issues with them.

I've recently had three separate issues where the leaf tampers (two on PA buttons and one on a small junction box) ended up causing wavering resistances (2k2/4k7 system reporting 4k0 or 9k0 resistances randomly) and caused tamper/ intruder alarms. I've tried everything possible to ensure terminations are secure and tight, conductors are making good contact with the terminals and the covers of the components are screwed down tight (not loose, not over tightened), in one case I resorted to adding a little more length onto the tamper leg to ensure it has good contact on the leaf which seems to have worked (and the tamper still functions as required). The only correlation I can see is that each fault occurred when the building was warming up/ cooling down; am I doing something wrong here? Could temperature changes cause these issues? Never had this problem with microswitch tampers that I can recall so I would like to think it's not my s**t wiring.

After flicking through the Texecom Premier Elite manual (obviously I've too much time on my hands), I come across the "Remote LED control" function and it got me thinking as to what applications this actually could be used in? I assume the function is remote control of all detector/ sounder/ equipment LEDs on the network through the LED control terminals on the Texecom detectors, but other than disabling the LEDs post- walk test for G3 installations, I can't think of any other application? Can anyone give any clues/ uses of this function they've found in the past/ present?

I'm hesistant to use beams as they seem fairly easy to bypass, if the intruder knew they were there. It'd also require the running of an additional power supply to the second unit, looking at a few on the market. With a PIR/ MW detector, it has more blanket coverage and is much more difficult to bypass, as well as being a smaller unit which requires only one cable.

After completing a fairly extensive domestic installation, my focus is now towards the exterior of the property. I've been looking at the GJD Mini Opal External PIR Detector or Pyronix High security tri-technology outdoor detector as a potential component of monitoring the outdoor areas, to act mainly as a pre-alarm (e.g. chimes and/ or activating internal sounders only). The detector would be mounted to monitor the access route to a part of my home which does have some foliage etc. surrounding it but is mostly free from movement (although given that everything will be the same temperature, I don't see this being too much of an issue with false alarms etc.) Providing I mount and sight the detector correctly (and with the Pyronix ensure the animal immunity is on), would this be an acceptable solution? Alternatively, any other suggestions for this would be appreciated, aside from the high cost PIDS systems (e.g. microphonic wire).

Ah right, in that case I'll keep a check on the voltage and general condition, I know the panel is supposed to do this itself, but I guess the occassional battery test won't do any harm too. The only reason I went for the wireless system is to save me having to route the cables around the house (bone-idle but the thought of cable pulling through decades old insulation and ceiling voids haunts me!). I originally looked at a few COTS systems like the Yale and Honeywell lines but they're a lot of money for not really that much. The Texecom system seemed really good value for money. Already added the Com-Wifi, it was surprisingly easy to set up after reading a few horror stories on here, the biggest issue I had was getting the app working off my phone surprisingly. Very useful to have alongside the Wintex suite too. I've got the network cable to the RKP coming in through the back, I should have routed the power cable up and through the back but I wasn't aware of the stand off until I'd removed the knockout (6P's and all that, I know)...

Understood, I'll add a screw into the devices I haven't yet done. I'm assuming this also negates the possible use of contact adhesive rather than screws on uPVC doors and metal sheet doors as well (something which was recommended to me but seemed dubious!)? "High level" in this case is run along the top of an internal dividing wall (appr. 2.3m in height), visible but it's no matter since it's in a utility room. I wasn't really planning to claim it on my insurance for that reason, the grade 2 is a more of an understanding of how a company would have installed the alarm for assurance, for example, I have no alarm wiring on the attack side of the building, therefore I haven't included any provision for RKP cable protection, other than that the cable is run at a high level as to avoid damage from folks catching it when carrying the shopping in? Yeah I've found the 17Ah battery only just fits, but it fits okay. Unfortunately the only place I could put the panel means the knockout where the battery bay is was the only one I could use. I'm not planning to chuck hundreds of wired devices in there so a 17Ah should be fine from the calcs I've done. Thanks for the replies, much appreciated!

Hi all, a new user here but I have been reading the forum as a guest quite frequently. Apologies if this should be in the DIY area, I wasn't sure where to post this. I've recently completed the (DIY) installation of a Texecom Premier Elite system (all wireless aside from the RKP). The system is working fine, no issues at all other than the normal teething problems (e.g. polling mode of sensors etc. which are all sorted) - the manual and literature are really a credit to the company. Is there any chance anyone could advise on a few things: 1) The Impaq door contacts have a rear tamper plate which damages the device if it is removed from the wall/ door frame. I can't work out whether this is optional or required as part of the Grade 2 certification of the system as I can't see an intruder being able to defeat the door and then remove the door contact and magnet without triggering the alarm or tamper? 2) There are only two cables in the whole system, one is the 230VAC power supply that I've run from a fused spur near to the alarm control panel via a three core cable into the panel through a standard gland in the bottom of the panel, the second is the RKP cable (+12VDC,0V,Data+,Data-) that runs through the house into the RKP at a certain location. Do I need to mechanically protect either of these cables or is running clipped to a wall at high level okay, since damage (purposeful or accidental) to either will be notified via the control panel/ ComWIFI system? 3) Obviously, I have installed this system myself and although I do work within the electrical industry I hold no formal qualification from a security installation board. Does this effectively void the whole Grade 2 status of the system?