Eugene's DIY Den

I've wired hundreds of these over the years, but I'm just wondering is there a knack in doing it? Firstly, should I be putting the twisted stranded wires under the screw's head or under the washer beneath the screw head, above the lead to the reed switch? Also two problems I've always had are that the wire squeezes out from under the head when tightening and also the screw head drags the wire core around in a circle, putting excess tension on the wire when it's short. Maybe it's better to take the screws out first, make an eye in the core then tighten? Alternatively I could just use small ring crimps.

I don't know. How do I check? There's no option to change it in the Devices menu. I presume the option to change it is buried in one of the other menus?

Just spent the last couple of hours interacting with the MSP for my alarm's SIM regarding login. I always seem to have this problem when I try to access my account, then I have to explain to them that I can't receive password reset codes because the SIM is in an alarm.

No, I thought about that. I'm qualified in this area, so it rules out me doing all the silly things ? Good point though.

I remember I had an issue before when it wasn't activating on bell, or there was a delay when it activated after the external sounder operated, so I must have changed those settings. Now I have to try and remember how I did this.

Ok, I'll disconnect two legs of the loop and see what results I get.

That's possible. Is 0v on this panel connected on the board to earth? (or is this the case in general for panels?)

One leg of the loop is removed from the terminals in the control panel, I wouldn't be measuring the resistance of a circuit that's powered. So the circuit is open and no current can flow in the loop to influence the meter.

I'm trying to identify what's causing a false trigger on a zone and think it's possibly a contact that's not closing properly (When I close a window slowly, the contact doesn't close, so maybe the magnet is too weak for the spacing., or the reed switch is just gone bad. This is a new problem) Resistance is 9 MOhm for the loop open and 38 ohms it's closed. I would have thought that the 9 MOhm is low and the loop resistance should be higher on open circuit. Weather is really damp, so I'm thinking condensation on the insides of contacts or oxide deposits are contributing to the low reading. Interestingly, resistance is 7 MOhm with probes one way and 9 MOhm with them reversed, so maybe coupling of voltages or electrochemical action between wires and screws is responsible.

A quick question. I opened my control panel (HKC SW10 70) and noticed I just get a repeated beep. Without trawling through the installation manual, can anyone tell me the menu option for to enable the internal sounder for tamper events? Also, is activation of the sounder per each tamper on zone, or does it have to be either on/off globally for all tampers?

What's the approximate line-of-sight range (for the radio signal) of those?

Just found the answer: Option 858 and 859 set to "Yes".

Is it possible for a zone type to be "entry/exit" on full set and "alarm" on part set A or B?

Can I use a double knock option on the same zone to only trigger an alarm after several operations of the PIR?

Yes, I just confirmed that.