PeteGBR

Someone will pay for that keypad membrane on ebay. The ABS plastic has more flex around the keypad, So where the hammer is embedded is probably its Achilles heel.

You have to be careful when stowing those batteries. I have to confess I've had to bail out a couple of times and toss stuff onto the street. (The van gets pretty untidy. Especially late on Friday afternoons when I start to lose all sense of reason).

I'm on 2 weeks holiday. So maybe someone else will be handed that hot potato. (It will be my first job when I return for sure). I am at this moment renewing the voltage regulator and electrolytic capacitors on an old issue_i V2.1 Castle meridian panel which is for a PJ I have lined up this week. Replacing an old issue_G V1.1 which has a failed processor. I am not sure if the NVM can be swapped between these units. But I'll need to program it up before I go. I just want to throw it, in grab the cash and run. Working on the bench is preferable on a cold day like today - Better than working in the field with all that driving, small talk and lousy tea. Am I really doing this on my down time ????

Regarding trolling. Harass, criticize, or antagonize (someone) especially by provocatively disparaging or mocking public statements, postings, or acts. So.: "Btw educate yourself on what a troll is". That is sarcasm. Should I go through all of your 8069 posts and see how many times you have trolled and how many times you gave any practical advice. I imagine the latter will come out at about 2%... I didn't fact check my comment so consider it banter. I apologise if that offended you.

I shall definitely not stop the alarm functioning in any way whatsoever. I just want to one man test the fire alarm and if it can tell me contamination status of the detectors. The thing has been maintained by the professionals up to the last visit 8 weeks ago. Both fire batteries failed on my tester. One of the intruder batteries was dried up and the other 7ah tested 0.8Ah. I found out 4 intruder detectors not programmed on and maybe not connected and a door contact not working at all even though an engineer said they fixed it. So I'm really doubting the fire alarm install. Trouble is at the present time I'll have to resort to the noisy method test.

You could say I got stitched up by one of our sales guys to take over a bunch of stuff that I'm not familiar with. Besides - Why would I come to this site if I knew everything about every security product on the planet? I've been in this game since I was 24, thats 30 years. Everything I knew back then is obsolete, everything 5 years ago is obsolete. I need to learn new stuff all the time else my brain will atrophy and my worth to my boss will diminish. Sigh.. I just got all excited that someone has replied and find it's just a Troll.

I still need to access this fire panel that I'm not familiar with. ****** (massive self edit). Please help me. XOXO

Huh?

I sent a pdf of my 'dodgy' cheap laminated ID badge to the place where I think I should apply. Do I really have to send a picture of my dick to Peter James? Is that some sort of hazing thing?

I applied - I guess I'm not of noble blood.

Tomorrow I have been instructed to take over one of these things in Streatham. It was almost certainly installed by ADT. I'm not familiar with this panel. Kentec, Notifier and Ctec I'm ok with. Managed to find a manual for the beast online and thumbing through it there is mention of codes to access through the menus - But no mention of whatever the default of these codes are. I will need to at least do some sort of walk test. Does anyone know what I will come up against? I dont want to look sad just standing in front of the panel for an hour and afterwards saying; "we should rip it out and replace it".. Oh - I'm new here. So I have absolutely no idea where to post this.

OK. The original post was almost totally lacking in any detail. Like going to the doctor and saying; "Something's wrong with me Doc. It hurts somewhere" and that's it.

If it makes lots of noise on power up it will be the Hard disk. If the hard disk does not spin up it will possibly be that the power supply is not giving enough power. Does the power light flicker on the external power supply or on the front of the unit? (if the mains supply goes directly in the back of the unit). If you can access the menu's after booting up - Just look in the log. I'm not familiar with the Alien - But all these things log faults and alarms...etc.

Pastel themed wiring scheme - That's art.

Gosh - People are really following this forum.. Wallo world.

I worked at CGS fixing Tv's and other electronic tat on the bench when I was 19. Moved into CCTV when I was 24. Worked at Melford, CCTV Warehouse and Norbain. Then decided to join an alarm installation company for a while to experience what you guys kept moaning to me about when the tech support couldn't help you. Now I'm old. Still at an installation company. The work is quite a dull technical field and the interesting problems always throw themselves at you at 4pm on a Friday when you're 3 hours from home, it's raining and Tech support guy at **** is avoiding to answer his phone 'cos he wants to go home too. So I think I may need your crowd help sometimes. Amazon, Google and all, are bringing in products that will soon throw the table of the industry upside down. So at some point maybe I shall start a business repairing drones or something. But for now I shall carry on servicing and installing because I love meeting new people. Oh BTW I know old stuff Risco, Texecom , Scantronic, JSB, Ademco, ADE and loads of others. * My brain isn't so good with new product as It's 1960's technology - The processor is getting glitchy, the filing system is messed up and I ran out of memory 10 years ago *. Fighting! Pete x

Thanks to everyone for your help. I used the 4 outputs on the board and disposed of the modem to our Circuit board recycler. It's all working now.

Removing the gateway module previously fault caused a line fault. I'm not familiar with the 2500 at all past testing the alarm at service. I doubt the line fault is returned back from the dualcom either. The gateway board is supposed to be an ethernet adapter but is probably causing the existing line fault. I want to remove it and I'm asking where in the menu's I can find the flag to stop the endstation looking for it.

Hmmm... I wonder if that Digi still works. Dial capture may work. Will still need a manual to do that. I have a Gradeshift interface board - But the dualcom is 20 metres away in the attic to get signal.

Ahh. Working out from description is hard i know. I took pictures for you.

The truth is i'm whipped by the company i work for - So spending hours on site messing about with something that was installed in 2000 is not really healthy for me. I thought I would research the panel before i went back to site like a professional. But I reallised that amongst the 100's of manuals I have accumulated over the last 30 years in this industry I don't have a Castle 2500 installation and wiring manual. I Need to resolve it though.

Just one endstation, 3 keypads

What I posted is certainly not a riddle but looks clear as mud my problem. I need a manual. Apologies. I thought it was totally unambiguous.

You got it al-yeti. I need to lose the junk stuck on the board and configure the 4 outputs (close, zone omit, int and conf), to the dualcom and return a line fault to the panel via an input or zone with a bisquit.. The digi is just sat on the top doing nothing. The DCIF was sending pins - not anymore. Just ripping it of I'm left with a fault. I tried taking it of a few years back, it needed telling it's not there. But now it is probably my problem.. Though not necessarily.. Thats why i'm asking deep thought.

I have a customer with a Castle 2500 which has recently developed a line fault. It has a DC 58 modem which has not had a phone line attached for years. This is sat on a Castle gateway PCB which goes off to a DCIF board, the outputs of this go up into the attic where a Dualcom sits. The alarm is not communicating and the Dualcom is functioning ok. As there are several keypads and this is quite a large alarm, (all I.D) I would like to keep it running as long as it will. (So as there are 4 outputs on the 2500 endstation I want to utilise these). The thing is the thing does not like me ripping off its piggyback boards. It needs a more sophisticated approach with some technical adjustment. The line fault error remains and It's wasting power so the parasite boards need to go. Can anyone guide me with this surgery and save my patient? I have manuals for everything Castle except the 2000 series.