Gadget34

It looks like Texecom have a dual WiFi/4g module due to be released in the future but. It isn’t available yet.. If I did Pyronix I could fit the gsm module which would allow both the app to use 4g and sms notification out of the gsm network. Think I may just have to accept it will be WiFi and never perfect

Just done a bit more research and Texecom are in the process of releasing a v2 app so it looks like they do development. I haven’t found the subscription version yet though? Another forum also suggests they may start charging for certain features in the future to help improve the features offered. This is referenced by in the first post above. I may stick with getting an installer to fit the Texecom model as these seem to be decent alarms.

Any recommendations? Are we saying Texecom’s App isn’t as good as others due to no subscription? I don’t want to pay to upgrade the alarm and have a useless app as otherwise I haven’t gained much functionality. I get the point not to choose the alarm based on the app but the main reason I am looking to update is to be able to get notifications and set/unset from an app.

I have been reading reviews on the App Store for Texecom’s connect app and they all seem to say it’s dated and rarely gets updated. I have read a few posts on here about companies who don’t change are bound to not develop the app. Would it be better to go with something like a Pyronix and pay a yearly subscription? I am basically looking to upgrade a current wired alarm to allow notifications. App control and possible add a wireless door sensor. I am tempted to try and DIY install the Pyronix Euro 46 as this seems to have better app reviews and seems to get mentioned a lot on the forums. I would consider a professional install but don’t want to spend a fortune. Any other brand recommendations also welcome Thanks

So only one connectivity card can be installed? I guess I best stick with the WiFi one unless the gprs one can do everything? Obviously will need a SIM card but more robust.

Looking at updating my scantronic alarm to a smarter model and this seems to be a common diy choice. I have done some reading and have the below questions. 1) To enable communication for the app control and alerts I will need a communication module. If I wanted a backup for WiFi (broadband) failing could I just install the gprs module and use a SIM card for app alerts and sms alerts or would I need both modules? 2) Do the modules fit in both panel cases the small/large or do I need the large one? Thanks

Ok thanks. Will read the instructions once it arrives.

Is this one sufficient https://cpc.farnell.com/texecom/acf-0001/pir-premier-compact-qd/dp/SR09299 I assume I will only connect the 4 wires and the pir has the resistors built in and will sort that automatically? Thanks

Would the IS312 be sufficient? Or would you go for a texecom? Do they both need to use the same resistors for the tamper circuit? Thanks

I don’t mind buying a new one for £20/£30. Do you know what model what be compatible?

The alarm is currently working as normal. James can you confirm where I test the tamper again? Is this at the pir end or the control box end? it will likely work for another 6 months ok now... just annoying when it does eventually cause the false tamper.

All tests were done on 200k. I can’t see the cable being at fault though as I could see the resistance change depending on the state of the pir. Lid off there wasn’t a circuit and then lid on it read 02.2. I believe the resistance would then increase further if someone activated the pir motion. i read this elsewhere which I believe is what I am seeing as I also measured the resistance and the pir alarm wires and these are 0.46 ish which fits with the below? As an example if a 4.7k resistor is used for the alarm contact and a 2.2k resistor is used for the tamper/EOL, In the 'active' condition the panel would see 4.7 plus 2.2 equals roughly 7k ohms. In the 'settled' condition the panel would just see the 2.2 or EOL. In the 'tamper' condition the panel would see zilch IE cut cable-open circuit or direct short tamper as well. What I don’t know is what reading would be at the panel when the pir is in the fault state I.e causing a tamper alarm on motion with the alarm unset. any recommendations for a compatible pir?

Ok I have done a couple of tests. 1) I put the meter across the bottom two pins in the sensor which I believe are the tamper ones. With the lid off I didn’t get a reading (no circuit) once I pushed the button it read 0 on the resistance 200k setting. 2) I shorted the cable at the pir and tested this at the control box and got a resistance reading of 0. When disconnected I didn’t get a circuit. 3) I took a reading of the cable disconnected at the panel with the pir sensor fully connected. This was 02.2 on the meter. With the lid off the sensor I didn’t get a reading. I assume this means it could be the pir? Unless it is one of the resisters within the pir? The PIR model is intellisense IS-215T. Is there a recommended replacement to work with the current wiring (4 wires with the resistor) which I believe is called EOL?

So the first test 1) Disconnect the circuit at the panel and meter the tamper pair on the sensor. I don’t fully understand what to disconnect and which wires to test for this one? 2) Then short the cables at the pir and measure the resistance at the panel. So connect the yellow and blue together at the pir and monitor the blue and yellow at the panel whilst disconnected on the meter to check the cable is ok?

Is this a resistance measurement at the sensor and the same at the panel using a multimeter? When you say tamper pair there is only two wires apart from power. Do you mean these? And by short I assume you mean connecting the blue and yellow wire together at the sensor? Is there any expected readings or should I compare to a sensor that doesn’t cause tamper alarms? Thanks