inspiredron

Thank you for that response. Yes I do understand the penalty - however, since there is nothing of value in either hall or utiilty room it does not seem too much of a penalty. For the consumer, if an alarm is not convenient and easy to use then it gets abandoned, unless the insurer insists on it and then, quite rightly, they require NACOSS or equivalent maintenance. There is still a place for those of us who want to make the casual villain move on when he gets an unexpected welcome. It was exactly your point about diluting security and effectiveness that led me to ask about the ability to tailor the entry time to allow a longer entry time to get from the back door to keypad without compromising the shorter time from the front door. Now I know that I can have multiple FE's I can experiment with other settings. But I wish that the manual was clearer on the syntax of the parameter strings for the zone attributes. I had already experimented with setting the utility room as ER, thinking that was an alternative entry route and, of course, that gave an INSTANT alarm without a countdown as soon as it was triggered which, to be fair, is documented under attribute 06 once you read it with the benefit of making that mistake. James - Did the architect specify a comms module? He might just want to catch the beggars - a sort of duress setting - but if I was up in bed i'd appreciate a howling banshee from a sounder! PS I should have posted thit in the DIY forum, which I had not seen. Can a mod please move it if appropriate?

There are no door contacts - I only have PIR's - I'd realised that it would be possible to put door contacts in series as a single zone which is why I said no door contact on front door in first line of my latest post. Neither do I want the hassle of running wires to a second keypad.

Can you have two "Final Exits" on a 9651? We would like to be able to use either front or back doors at will. Keypad is in hall which is currently set up as FE with PIR but no magnetic switch on the front door. Back door opens into utility room currently set as NA which then leads into hall with no intervening sensors. Can I simply configure the utility room PIR as a second FE (zone n, option type 05) as well as having the hall as FE (zone m, option type 05) or does that cause confusion, particularly if I exit through hall and enter through Utility room? Panel software version is v2.03.0150. Assuming that I can have two FE zones without confusion can I set a longer Entry timer for the back door (as programming options 200, 201, 202) or is that only for later software Where the manual says things like x7 does it mean the cross folowed by 7 or is the x a shorthand for the string of parameters for other options which have been set with different commands? For example to set a zone to Final Exit, entry timer 2 do I enter 05, tick, cross72 tick, or 05,cross 72, or 0572. As ever, grateful for explanation as logic is not obvious. Thanks in advance Ron

The latter - I have already discovered that the vendor was not terribly clever at DIY and too mean to get things done properly. Yes the battery was shot, had probably been bleating at them for a long time that it was low, they did not want to fork out £100 for a call out (they had no maintenance contraxt) and they got totally fed up with the noise from the sounder and couldn't stop it and wouldn't pay for someone else to stop it. SO - CUT THE WIRES to kill it. To quote myself - JOB DONE but actually JOB BODGED. I have every confidence that the system will work for the next 10 years with a little TLC. The only thing that I have noticed is that the keypad backlight is a bit dim. Yes, I doid ask for certificate and got the certificate of installation - when I rang the installers to enquire about a maintaenance contaract they wanted £250 to come out and inspect plus reset codes - hence my DIY effort. And they said that it had never been maintained since installation in 2004. I would guess that it was cut in around 2010 but I canot se anything in th elog to support that. Hey-ho! But I'm pretty happy for the moment and grateful to this forum. It's good that you can help a 79 year old ?

JOB DONE! It was very much easier than I had expected and apart from the 15 minute external sounder when I switched off the mains and the 3 second test when I had finished there was no sound at all to disturb the neighbours. So what wa sth eproblem you may ask. 1) As I expected the battery dated from 2007 and was totally shot - in fact there were very small traces of white powder but they had not affected the case at all - I was in time. 2) The control panel was dead because it had been opened up and the 4 wires to it had been cut. Also one of the wires feeding the internal sounder had also been cut. Luckily in both cases the wires were long enough to be reconnected (after a bit of soldering on the sounder). Our friendly(?) vendors had told us they could not remember the codes - it would have been helpful if they had said that they cut the wires! *****!*!*!!! (expletives!) The external sounder did the full 15 minutes on battery which is a good sign! The codes rest to defaults perfectly and I have spent some time going through the totality of the programming commands, walk test, checking Zone attributes, naming zones (the installer was too lazy to do that) and setting up new engineer and user codes. I know that I have been slower than a pro but it has been interesting. Now I need to consider whether to get a communicator for it so that it can ring my mobile when we are not at home. Thanks for the help to those who responded - it set me in the right direction and gave me extra confidence. If anyone has intimate knowledge of the 9651 I might well be asking about setting up zone attributes to enable entry through either of front and back doors. Front door leads directly into hall which is Final Exit while back door has to negootiate an extra zone. Perhaps it's as easy as giving that zone an FE attribute instead of NA? Thanks again folks Ron

Thanks for help - guess it's exploring tomorrow! I will report back - positive or negative. Ron

Just found picture of PCB that makes it clear that NVM chip is NOT socketed - so I will have to try out and hope that NVM chip is OK - Nice tamper switch! ? I will look hard at wiring continuity to keypad. You mentioned external sounder controlled by bell box itself. If the internal sounder is a problem then it seems that I can simply disconnect it from the LS terminals until I can get keypad working. Presumably if I disconnect external sounder wires the bell will do its business once but not reset after its 20 minutes? Sorry to be a pain!

Thanks for you very quick response, sixwheeledbeast. In the last few minutes I found a thread on another site that points to possible failure of the NVM chip or perhaps just lost its programming so an NVM reset (or maybe replacement) might bring things back to life - at the expense of retuning all the default factory settings to what is needed. None of that is a problem for me - provided the NVM chip is socketed rather than soldered - and that I can identify the chip required - but, as you say, a complete new panel plus proximity keypad is only £100 if that does not work - But it's all worth exploring first. As far as I can see the NVM chips are VERY cheap. Any advice on my bold paragraph please? The installation appaers to be cosmetically completely sound - just suffering from non-use.

HI - I'm being very cheeky and looking for a bit of advice concerning the alarm in a house that we have just moved into. I'm very competent in both electrics and electronics but unaware of the detail of security devices. The house is fitted with a Scantronics 9651 panel wired to 5 PIR's and an internal and external sounder with the basic 9930 keypad and is a really basic system installed by the builders about 14 years ago. When we bought the house I asked the vendors for the user master code and was told that they hadn't used the alarm for many years and had forgotten the codes. They would never have been given the engineer code. I don't think th ealrm has ever ben serviced. Finding the installation manual on line was not difficult and I have extracted all the instructions for resetting both engineer and user codes. I have also bought a new NP7-12 battery reckoning that the existing battery is almost certainly trashed. However, before I open up the panel to install the new battery and to reset the codes I need a little more information, please. The PIR 's all react to movement showing red led's. The keypad has no signs of life at all and does not react to any key press. When I cut off the mains supply, the external sounder goes off (as expected but relatively quietly) and then cuts out immediately the mains is restored. My assumption is that the external sounder has its own buiilt in battery, which is still possibly seviceable but may well need replacement. What I am really unsure about is whether the keypad is expected to play dead if the panel battery is dead or whether that is fed from the mains supply to the transformer. If the former than I would expect the panel to revive when I replace the battery. However, if a healthy keypad can take its power from the stepped down mains supply that seems to point to failure of the panel. If I go ahead and open up the panel to replace the battery then, if the panel is dead, I have no way of inputting a code to silence the tamper alarm condition so what happens next? I presume that the sounders (internal and external?) will continue for 20 minutes or whatever duration has been set under option 42. Once that time has elapsed, what happens next? Thankfully there is no communication module installed. Can I just replace the panel cover, and then continue with clearing fthe fault condition once I have installed a new keypad, probably a better model as I have read somewhere that the 9930 is a bit naff and prone to failure. I do realise that if it is expected that the keypad acts dumb when the main battery is dead it may still be faulty - butthe answers to my bold paragraph will still be applicable and help me As you can see, I have done my homework and feel competent to do the necessary - I just don't wantto really annoy my neighbours. Nor do I want to spend a lot of money on a system that will need total replacement anyway. I'd be really grateful for some help. Ron