jmeader43

Or how how simply muffling the speaker with some foam as they just suggested ?

I have 2 of these run in series and the customer is saying they are too loud They are connected to a Texecom Premier Elite 24 and being used with the Chime facility Is it possible to dial down the volume by wiring in something that’s adjustable so they can fiddle with it themselves and then I don’t have to keep adjusting it myself The product is this one: https://connectec.uk/security/intruder-alarms/wired-alarm-systems/wired-alarm-sounders-and-bells/8-ohm-alarm-extension-speaker-with-tamper

I’ve also asked her if it only happens when they get into one of their cars as I’m wondering if it’s a Wi-Fi permitting from one of those they are all high-performance cars so maybe there’s something affecting the signal

Thanks I will take a WiFi range extender and boost it to the far corner of the house by the camera. It’s quite a wide plot of land and likely to be weak signal. I’ll update this post once I’ve tried that

A friend our mine feels their neighbour could be jamming the audio of her Ring camera whenever they are outside on the driveway nextdoor Video records fine and playback with audio works at all other times when anyone triggers the motion recording except Nextdoor I am wondering if it could be a setting on the app rather than something actually jamming the audio Has anyone heard of such a thing before?

Haha yeah I know, it allows the person to turn off the banshee when it stays on due to a vehicle blocking the beam instead of using a single pole switch in the room where the alarm panel is. They can now operate the relay on the Shelly using the app

Anyone reading this in the future here is the wiring diagram to get this working with a Shelly Plus 1 relay instead of the PE24 panel

looking at this diagram it suggests I need to use the NO output to run to the SW on the Shelly?

Shelly relay is another option but stuck on how to wire the SW, NC and COM

Yes it looks like it can run on 12V DC. Texecom said use Moment Key and change Attribute 1 to Keytube which I’ve set but haven’t tried yet as I was stuck on thinking it could only run on 24V DC I also have a Shelly Plus 1 WiFi relay which I could use instead. I’ll post the wiring diagram of how far I’ve got with it Another option is to use a Shelly Plus 1 WiFi relay I have made a wiring diagram but I am struggling to work out where the Shelly SW terminal and the Optex RX NC and COM terminals fit in to this

That’s good I see it can work as 12V DC. I’ve only got it set to -20db which is more than enough so the lower voltage should be fine

I have made a wiring diagram but I am struggling to work out where the Shelly SW terminal and the Optex RX NC and COM terminals fit in to this

I have got an ESP Banshee Sounder that runs on 24V DC to see if it can be used when the Optex beam (which is now in NC rather than NO) sends an signal to one of the Zones on the PE24 which is set to "Moment Key" unless that is wrong and needs a different option I also have the option of using a Shelly Plus 1 relay which can run on 24V DC if that is a better way or even the only way of achieving this I have posted this on a separate forum post here so apolgies if I've doubled up on the posts and delete if need be

I would like if possible to have an Optex wired beam running on 24V DC trigger a Zone on the PE24 using Moment Key (if that is the right option) and then output it to the ESP Banshee Sounder Problem I see if the PE24 is 12V DC and the Banshee needs 24V DC I also have the option of a Shelly Plus 1 relay which I have queried on their FB support group to see if it can do the job as well If I just need to get a 12V DC Sounder then I may have to do that if using the PE24 and not the Shelly

Yes I have some resistors to wire it up for the 4K7 2K2 Texecom standard thanks