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Dear Security Experts: I need to replace an outdated Scantronic alarm. These are the property characteristics: - A small, terraced house of two floors (60 sqm in total) - A long patio surrounded by a garden fence. - Located in an average crime post code in London. - Currently, I have 2 motion monitors, a door contact, a shock sensor on a window, and an external bell. No sensors on the second floor. Requirements: - There is nothing of value that I want to protect; but I want a DETERRENT. - The idea that a burglar could be in my place when we're sleeping scares me. I want to set up the alarm at night. - Near zero false alarms. Houses are small, next to each other, and a sensitive alarm will be a serious problem for me. In 20 years, I haven’t had one false alarm with the Scantronic alarm. - I’d like to use the existing wires as I understand a wired alarm is more stable. - Excellent quality and professional installation. - A common alarm that can be serviced in the future by a good number of companies. - Remote monitoring by a security company is NOT required. - Remote self-monitoring via an app is NOT essential. The solutions that I've found are a Texecom Premier 24 (wired, remote control via an app) or a Veritas (wired, no remote control). I can't find installers for new Scantronic or similar alarms. Could you pls advise on which ALARM/brand model/features? Is there any other alarm that will meet the above requirements? I don’t want a cheap solution, on the contrary, but a sophisticated solution can become a headache when a simple one suffices. I know that technology has advanced, but sometimes LESS is MORE. Apologies for the length of the post. This is a topic which is quite confusing for an ordinary person, and, as I'm 'small business', companies don't answer my questions. Pls help, and thank you. PS: I found your website when researching alarms, and your answers keep on popping up.

I've decided to run with a new Texecom intruder alarm system, however I have a few questions. My father in law has asked Texecom, but they're a bit casual on getting back to us. Is anyone here familiar with their kit please? My questions are red in the table below.... Can I assume the two following panels are the same except for the case? Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel Metal CAA-0004 Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel (Plastic?) CAA-0026 Can I assume the following item is correct for the above panels Texecom Premier Elite iProx Kit includes iProx and External iProx Reader BBC-0001 Can I assume the following reader is to have an additional reader once the above iProx has been installed? Texecom External IProx Reader Access Control BBB-0001 Will I need to order the following Tags, or are some included with the iProx Kit? Texecom Premier Elite Proximity Tags (Pack of 5) CDB-0001 Is the following item correct for the Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel? Texecom Connect SmartCom Ethernet & Wifi Communicator CEL-0001 Is the following item correct for the Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel? Texecom Premier Elite Standard LCD Remote Keypad DBA-0001 Texecom Premier Elite LCDL Large Screen Remote Keypad DBB-0001 Presumably I won't need this if I have the BBC-001 iProx kit? Texecom Premier Elite LCDLP Large Screen & Proximity Remote Keypad DBD-0002 Are the following items correct for the Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel? Texecom Ricochet Wireless Micro Door Contact Midnight Black GHA-0014 Texecom Odyssey X-BE Grade 2 Sounder with Integral Backlight WDC-0001 Premier Odyssey X-BE External Sounder Backplate c/w Backlight Louder! WDC-0002 Are the following detectors correct for the Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel? Texecom Ricochet Impaq SC-W VIBER Wireless Shock and Contact White GJA-0001 Texecom Ricochet Wireless P15-W Capture 15m PIR Detector GDA-0001 Texecom Ricochet Wireless Q20-W Capture 20m Quad PIR Detector GDB-0001 Pyronix Enforcer Wireless 12m Dual Technology PIR Detector KX12DT3-WE Thanks in advance for useful answers ?

Hi All I appreciate this is a fairly simple question, but this is a first Texecom install - which terminal on a Premier Elite 24 PCB should I connect my ADE Honeywell Informa Speech Dialler to? I had tried connecting to Bell+ but although I can make a test call from the dialler itself it does not dial when the alarm is triggered? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Si

I have got the Texecom Premier 48 with a Battery Fault. This has happened since we had a short power-cut one evening. I have logged into engineer mode and looked at the status of the battery. The battery has 13.6v and is fully charged. I have done a walk test to make sure all the PIR’s and Door Contacts work. What I have displaying on the LCD Keypad is ‘System Alerts!’ and ‘Battery Fault’, how can I stop these messages from appearing?

Evening Gents, So Texecom released Premier Elite v4 software at last and i'm going to have a go at updating my panel. (48) I have the Prem Elite Flasher Interface and JAA-0001 USB lead. So should be all set to go at some point over the weekend. Any advice before i get stuck in ? !

I have a Texecom alarm with a Veritas R8 (or plus?) / Excel styled control panel box with a Premier LCDL remote key pad from around 2003. The keys on the remote key pad were made of a soft silicone and some of them have become worn and difficult to press and register. I have looked around but I can’t find replacement silicone key pad so I purchased a second hand Premier LCDL remote keypad from ebay with the intention of changing over the silicone but the new keypad actually came with solid plastic keys which look much better and should last much longer. Now I’m wondering if I can just swap the whole keypad units over rather than just the silicone keys which may not be possible as the solid keys likely won’t fit the old unit. Before I try swapping the remote keypads over I wanted to sanity check I wasn’t going to do something totally crazy. Are all the settings (zones names, users etc) stored in the veritas control panel while the remote keypad is simply a dumb terminal or are some settings stored in the remote keypad in which case I would need to write them down and the reprogram the new keypad? I’m not using any of the additional zones on the remote keypad, the only things that are connected are the +,-,T & P connectors for the network. From the paperwork I have it looks like the box could be running Premier 412/418 V6 software. The circuit board on the original Premier LCDL keypad is Texecom 2001 D0243-02.02, barcode PPL201920 with a date sticker 17.09.02. The replacement Premier LCDL keypad is 4207 Texecom 2005 D5048-02.05, barcode LRP3112727. It could actually be an LCDLP keypad as it has PROX on the front. The control panel has E77787 and barcode EOS2026168. Does anyone know if any data is stored on these remote keypads or if it’s all on the control panel and if so are the keypads are fully interchangeable? Will the newer keypad work with the older control pannel?

I’ve just installed a premier elite panel and everything else is working 100% but when I try to set area b the speaker is not sounding when the timer is counting down and doesn’t sound when someone enters the building after being set it doesn’t sound either

Some help please, I was trying to personalise the user access on my recently installed Texecom Connect App, not sure what I have done but all I get now when I try to log in is the message "access to the system is currently disabled". I have now effectively locked out all three users I have deleted the house and reloaded it but still get the same message Any advise how to resolve "access to the system is currently disabled" Thanks

Hello, I have recently moved into a house and noticed that I have one permanently lit green LED on the external bell box. Neighbors systems seem to have 2 leds which alternate. Any idea what causes this? The alarm is a Veritas 8 with telecom bell boxes. Is that enough to go on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Evening all, Anyone managed to get the camera section of the Texecom Connect App working? I'm using HIKVision IP cameras but need an example of the "Image Command"

Considering getting ceiling mounted 360 (AM360 DT) sensors for fresh home install (keep walls clear for wardrobes, shelves etc). Any tips/advice on placement? Any reason why this would not be a good idea? (ie vs traditional wall mounted) There are windows / glass doors in most of the rooms. All rooms are ~2.4m tall. Getting cable to location is not an issue. Combined with premier elite 48 panel. Thanks in advance for your any assistance

Hi People, Have not posted here in a long time but I need some help. I am looking to use a new intruder alarm (wireless kit). The Pyronix Enforcer seemed to tick all the boxes, ease of install, features, peripherals, price, tech support and contents of the kit. However, I have asked around a few engineers here in Dublin and they tell me to stay clear because of the app being very unreliable and general end user experience which leads to too many call backs. If you had to recommend any system what would it be and why? Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Stephen.

Hi all: I have been installing Texecom Premiere Elite 48 (wired) for a while with great success and reliability. I now need to install a wireless alarm as I have come across a property where running the cables with be too difficult. As I know Texecom very well I am looking into install their wireless alarm, specifically the 64-W Kit-0002 with a few add-ons (panic button etc). Can anyone please give me their experience of how reliable this system is? Any advice... Thanks v much

Hi Everyone I have just got back into doing Domestic Alarms it’s been 10 years since I have been in the domestic sector Boy have things changed ! Gone it would seem are the days of Redcares and Digi’s So having installed a Smartcom with the APP on a customers IPAD I found it notifies of setting and unsettling engineer logon e.t.c from the top of the screen when the apps closed but gives no kind of notification when the alarms actually set of this I thought would be the entire purpose of the APP ! Texecom don’t seem to show this as a feature on their demo videos it all seem to be about switching lights on and silly stuff like that Has anyone else experienced this ? Is the APP meant to do this ? Or Is there in true texecom style some weird irrelevant hidden setting somewhere on a back submenu ? If the App is open the icons all flash but as I said if the app is closed you will have no idea your alarm is going off. I thought I had cracked it by setting up a “recipe” - recipe !! Recipe for disaster if you ask me, I digress sorry , so I setup a cause “IF these Zones activate when fully armed & site is in. Alarm “ then effect is “send a push notification and an email “ however I gather it doesn’t quite work like that and the purpose of this recipe function is turn on the dehumidifier or toaster when system is unset or whatever silly thing like that If I had designed this sort of APP I would have a setting like “App always runs in background” and when an Intruder signal and in turn a confirmed signal is sent from the panel a great big red flashing bell icon with a loud siren sound pops up saying “Home alarm activated” . This is the expectation of customers as they are opting for these APPs on their phones rather than paying monitoring fees to ARC,s to call them to if you ask me you can’t beat proper ARC monitoring. ... So any ideas guys ?

I'm reasonably competent with all things electrical / electronic and recently moved in to a new house. I was initially planning to go for a full wired system as the house supposedly had a "first fix for Alarm", long story short the first fix was rubbish and had no where near enough cables for the kind of security I was looking for. So I decided to go with a Texecom Premier Elite 64W with a rough mix of 50/50 wired and wireless sensors, I also got the SmartComm as I wanted the ability to talk to it remotely with my phone etc. The parts I bought were: 1 x Premier Elite 64W 1 x SmartComm 1 x Wired Prox LCD Keypad 3 x Wired Magnetic Door Contacts (to which I added the EOL resistors) 3 x Wired PIRs 1 x Wireless Prox LCD Keypad 1 x Wireless Magnetic Door Contact 3 x Wireless PIR's 1 x Odyssey 3 External Wired Sounder The 64W has 4 onboard wired zones and the wired keypad also has 2 zones, my plan being to use those 6 zones for the 6 wired sensors and have everything else wireless. The install went really well (with just the 2 sensors to the keypad left to wire in) , everything in in DEOL I powered up the panel and when through the language setup, date / time, confirm devices etc with the wired panel, I got it to learn all the wireless sensors powering them on one by one, I've even managed to get the SmartComm connected and working through my phone. Here come the 3 issues: 1. It's lucky I bought the wired keypad as I cannot for the life of me figure out how to connect the wireless keypad, the wired one is set to Keypad 1, and I set the DIP switches in the wireless one to be Keypad 2 (0100). How ever the wireless keypad simply displays "No Ricochet Network Found" when I press the tick to activate it. How do you correctly configure the wireless keypad on to the system? Will I need to re connect the installation jumper or can I add it from the engineer menu? 2. Cannot get WinTex to connect at all using the SmartComm, I've never used this software before but on first look its absolutely awful! I'm going to try with a direct serial connection to the panel as soon as I get 5 minutes. 3. Additional zones from the wired keypad, will they be zones 5 and 6? I think the Wireless sensors were zones 9 to 12, who knows what zone 8 is (unless its the stupid wireless keypad I cannot get to connect). Any help with the above issues or pointers would be very much appreciated, hopefully I've given a reasonable explanation but any questions please ask! Kind Regards Kevin

Hello all, A few months back I installed a Texecom Premier Elite 48 control panel, with Ricochet PIR's, door contacts, a could of hard wired devices. Along-side this system, I wanted to be able to be alerted to any alarms so bought a GSM communicator plugin for it. The part number is CEG1000. The set-up took a few reads of the manual, but I got there and it was all working very well, it was tested, receiving messages, replying to them and alerting me if an alarm was activated. A few weeks after installation the system started beeping intermittently and gave me an error message: ATH Path Fault COM1 Fault No ATS Available. I put it into engineer mode, disconnected the communicator from COM1, opened it up, gave it a good old clean out and plugged it back in. The system happily accepted it and all was right in the security world. The device then started to throw this error again, and it grew more frequent, first a month, then a fortnight, a week, a day, an hour, and now it is a matter of seconds. I'm wondering if someone could point me towards exactly what I should be looking at, as the cause of the issue. I have verified the sim card works, the panel is communicating with the GSM device and vice versa. Having looked around the forum I have found many people with this error, but they all seem to be using the DigiCom devices which are connected to the phone lines. The GSM module was bought second hand, so I am aware that this may play a part, but before I get in contact with the person it was purchased from, I want to make sure I rule out all other problems. Anything I can try and test would be greatly appreciated. John Picture of device: http://imgur.com/a/F3BU0 Picture of model: http://imgur.com/a/10vou

What do we think about charging for the APP use to clients, Risco, Eaton is Free both APP & Cloud, HKC charge for both APP & Cloud, Pyronix has Free APP & free Cloud 1st year, then annual subscription, Texecom charge for APP but it uses client direct web connection and needs a degree to programme. Current we include the feature in the annual maintenance agreement, but where clients do not renew which is getting more and more common, we charge, additionally most of the APPS are based on clients broadband, when that faulters from time to time as they do, they want us to fix FOC, thoughts gratefully appreciated

i think ive misunderstood the part set function of my veritas alarm panel (excel , lcd keypad ) my question is if i set zone one of suite one to E/E does this mean the that zone one of the other three suites will be E/E as well or can the zones of the other three be a different program type ? example suite 1 zone 1 E/E suite 2 zone 1 Guard suite 3 zone 1 inhibited suite 4 zone 1 back to E/E ps this is only an example many thanks any help is great

For my premier elite 24 plastic, I have also purchased a texecom USB-Com cable. Could I leave it plugged in when the panel is closed? i.e. route the cable from the back. That way I can easily connect it to my laptop without having to open the panel. This is in a domestic home, so I think it's unlikely a potential intruder would tamper with it. Would this be possible, and if it is is it a bad idea?

Hi all, I have a Texecom Premier Elite 48 control panel. Everything (magnetic contacts, PIR's, glass break sensors) so far is working perfectly and I'm just tweaking everything for my liking. I've now run into a problem with the speaker, in the sense of I've wired in a speaker (SECWARE 16 Ohm Internal Speaker) into the "speaker" section of the control panel board. Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to get any sound to come out of it. Does anyone have any ideas? Is there perhaps a setting I need to turn on, or something of that matter? This includes all sounds - speaker tones - internal sirens - chimes - etc. Any help greatly appreciated! Many thanks - John

About 12 months ago I fitted a Texecom Premier Elite wireless system. The system commissioned without any problems and walk test was fine. The system consists of 6 PIR's, 4 Dual and 2 Quads. Since then I have had 4 false alarms, all on the Quad PIR's . The first 2 (about 2 months apart was on the landing PIR, one at about 5 in morning and one mid afternoon. I could see no reason for the alarm. PIR facing a number of closed doors and no windows. In the end I changed this out for a Dual PIR. Last night I had the second false alarm in the dining room. Again a Quad PIR facing in from the window and towards the center of the room. I took it down and saw no obvious issues with it. As a temporary measure I have set this sensor to double knock (7 seconds). I have just ordered another Dual PIR but would be interested in any views as to why I am getting false alarms. (Wishing now I had cabled the PIR's instead....) Thanks, Nigel Read more:

Hello Everybody, I'm hoping you can help me with what is (hopefully) a relatively simple fix; I upgraded the firmware on my premier elite 24 panel from 2.(something i cant rememeber) to 3.2. Since doing so when i press the area button on my control pad in the hall the system goes to part arm 2, The system is set into 2 areas; Area A = Ground Floor and Garage Area B = First Floor The control pad in the hall is set to Area A&B but I havent got the "use keypad areas" box checked in wintex, I tried it and it made no difference. The second control pad is in the second floor landing, This is set to area a only, the idea being that I set the alarm from the second floor pad at bed time and we can roam the first and second floors (no sensors on second floor) and then either dis arm from second floor in the morning or go down stairs and the hallway sensor will start the entry timer. The Parts arms are as follows; Part arm 1 - Doors and Garage Part Arm 2 - Bedtime - Seperate to only activing area A from second floor pad Part Arm 3 - Garage Only So before i updated the firmware it all worked beutifully, I press area in the hallway when leaving the house and the whole house was armed, and i pressed area on the second floor pad at night and only the grond floor and garage was armed. Like i say though, when i press area on the ground floor pad now it automatically goe's to part arm 2. I even change the configurations on part arm 2 so it was the garage only setting and part 3 was the bedtime incase something in the zone settings was confliciting but it made no difference, even with the garage as part 2 when i press area it still auto's to part 2. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!

I have a relatively 'smart 'house' which is connected to my phone and a number of peripherals around the house. I have built most of it myself and want to know if I can disam a Texecom Premier alarm using a discrete input from the 'house system'? I couldnt see anything obvious as the zones are the only input (I have no communicator board!). There are plenty of outputs which I have programmed to output on alarm to the 'house system' to perform various tasks. Its the ability to disarm Im a bit stuck on. Any ideas??

Hello All I'm struggling to get my Alarm panel set up as i want it, and i think i have a gaping hole in the way i have it set up at the moment. I have Texecom Premier Elite 48 with several PIRs around the property and a magnetic door sensor on the main door. i have a key pad in the hall way, where i also have a PIR. so i have set up the zones as follows: Front door: Zone Type - Entry/Exit 1 Attribute 1 - Omittable Attribute 2 - None Halllway PIR Zone Type - Guard Access Attribute 1 - Omittable, Access, Entry/Exit 2 Attribute 2 - none The problem i have is that if the front door is tripped and the alarm is NOT deactivated, only the internal alarm is triggered and the external SAB is quiet. To ensure that the external sounder is actually working i have activated a Panic alarm and i can hear the siren from the external sounder. Ultimately this means that if someone was to force the front door open, the external sounder wouldn't go off and no one outside would know. can someone please help me diagnose what the problem could be? thanks Sups

Good Day, I Installed an Texecom Premier elite alarm system and I would like to know how long an 12 Volt 18Ah will last if the power went off. And should a 50va 16Volt Transformer be enough Here is my alarm specs. 13X PIR Detectors 6X Door Switches 9X Panic Buttons 8X Fire Detectors 3X Dual Beam outdoor beams 2X LCD Keypads 1X RF ADT communicator 1X GSM Communicator 1X 30watt Siren 2X Sound Bombs 1X Remote Reciever. Thanks alot