dommer Posted March 30, 2006 Posted March 30, 2006 Hi. I need to fit a new door sensor in a UPVC door. Can anyone give me any tips on how best to do this ? Where to run the cable and the best position etc. , Dom.
Guest IMSSYSTEMS Posted March 30, 2006 Posted March 30, 2006 hiya, the best place to put the contact would be either on the top opening side of the door, if you use a flush contact be carful with the possibility of water or the side of the door, all depends on how you can get access for the cable
arfur mo Posted March 30, 2006 Posted March 30, 2006 Hi. I need to fit a new door sensor in a UPVC door. Can anyone give me any tips on how best to do this ? Where to run the cable and the best position etc. , Dom. hi dom, if your door has the multi-locking then avoid using a concealled or 'quk fit' as you ight interfere with the rods. take a little time and see if you can fit a white plastic surface magnet and reed within the channels, you can get them from Maplins or most electrical wholesalers. in most doors i have seen they will fit but if you are a little pushed for room, remove the magnet from the casing and use a hot melt glue gun or silicone sealant to secure it in place. wedge it first and test with a meter before applying the adhesive. getting the cable through is a matter for personal skill and eye, all engineers will have a favoured method, mine is as follows and no better or worse -: many frames have the frame upright reaching to the floor (type 1), some have the upright resting on the bottom frame (type 2) while others are mitred (type 3). you need to have a good look first and imagine the obstructions inside. look inside the lock receiver pocket to get an idea of the construction. if you have the second or third type you need a long thin drill that will go through plastic and possibly metal. you will have to judge the angle as best you can and drill through the channel walls from the contact. be careful and any elongation will be covered by the contact body. type 1. having drilled the hole behind the contact, drill a hole at the bottom of the frame but try to get as near to the far wall of the cavity. feed some cotton or thin string with some kiddies neclace beads or fishing shot to act as a weight into the hole, and snag it with some stranded wire splayed out to make a barb. use this as a draw wire. type 2 & 3, having drilled you holes use a legnth of stiffish tubing, I use an old empty biro refill tube, with the draw string passed through it and a bead on the end. this allows you to push the bead though and drop it in the cavity, witdraw tube and snag string. without drawing diagrams its more difficult to explain but you should get the 'jist'. regs arfur_mo If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
dommer Posted March 31, 2006 Author Posted March 31, 2006 Thanks for your replies, especially Arfur Mo. Think I will try one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=...=12565&doy=31m3 Anyone used one before ? Unforunalty no dimentions listed, but at only
Guest Posted March 31, 2006 Posted March 31, 2006 The YW47B would be better. The one you linked to has prewired leads so you would have to run them down the frame to a junction box.
dommer Posted March 31, 2006 Author Posted March 31, 2006 I will buy both to see how they will fit in the frame. If it's tight for space what do you think about soldering on the new cable to the small switch ?
arfur mo Posted March 31, 2006 Posted March 31, 2006 Thanks for your replies, especially Arfur Mo.Think I will try one of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?TabID=...=12565&doy=31m3 Anyone used one before ? Unforunalty no dimentions listed, but at only If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
arfur mo Posted March 31, 2006 Posted March 31, 2006 I will buy both to see how they will fit in the frame. If it's tight for space what do you think about soldering on the new cable to the small switch ? how good are you at vexatious art of soldering, if you are soldering direct onto the reed? thats not a rude reposte just practicle as i don't know you skill level - and lots who thought they were good i have had to re-train . soldering is so simple to get it right, but so easy to get it wronge! both the contacts mentioned are not soldered at the reed so should not be a problem as with the pre-wired vesion you chose, the end of the cable is well away from the end of the reed, so heat transference which could damage the reed if you solder directly onto it, is not an issue. its a method i have seen where the glass reed is sealed to the door frame with sealant after connection or even placed behind the draft stop, but its not a method i favour or what i'd do. reges arfur_mo If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
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