Texecom Veritas With New Bell Boxes

[Guest iancollis]

Hi, I have a Texecom Veritas panel that had an old CQR bellbox fitted. The bellbox went down as it wouldn't strobe when on test, so I gather the strobe card or the Ni-Cad were dead. The box looked pretty faded so down it came.

I have fitted up two new Texecom Odessy 3 units and run a new cable from front to back to connect the new back unit up as a "slave", overlooking the vulnerable playing field behind the house.

I started the system up after checking all other wiring and fitting a new panel battery.

Observing Texecoms diagram, one box is set up on the jumper as an SCB and the other as an SAB, with the two tamper switches linked between the boxes as per thier diagram.

The set up doesnt work and all I get is uncontrolled bell ringing and tamper showing on the RKP.

What is wrong here? Any help would be appreciated.

Why arn't both set up as SCB's and what does linking the two box tampers actually achieve?

Ian

[Deltaseven]

Hi Ian,

First - setting one as SCB and one as SAB reduces the current draw in alarm - the SCB uses its internal battery, rather than the panel current to ring. It then re-charges when the alarm condition is silenced. SAB tends to be slightly louder, and will continue the full 15 minutes (if thats what you programmed) even if the bell box battery is low.

What are the LEDs on the bells doing? They should both have both LEDs flashing. Did you connect the bell battery before the 12V supply? You often need to bend the temper switch leaves out a touch for them to make contact properly.

D7

[ranger]

Agreed as above.

Let us know how you get on with it as i am happy to talk you through it

Also, out of curiosity, where abouts do you live? B)

Regards,

Ranger

[Guest iancollis]

I am in the Orpington area.

Still working on this problem.

Thanks for the info, the part about the SAB/ SCB Vs PSU power limitations were understood, but I've double checked them again.

I still can't stop the front ("master") bell box going out of control from the panel and bringing up tamper on the RKP, once powered up and taken off Hold Off mode..

Removed both bell boxes and laid them on the floor near the panel, connected with short lengths of six core. With both tamper switches (on both units) held down firmly with tape and no lids fitted and the whole set up run in Engineers test mode, the leds flash alternately and the full system function test is absolutely fine. The tamper circuit is therefore OK.....

Once I put them back up on the wall again and then powered up exactly as tested , the front box will not show the tamper circuit is complete on the green leds and the box self activates and cannot be controlled without pulling the sounder +ve terninal off.

I notice that I can only get the left led on the front box to flash, but the back unit flashes the right side led when powered up off the ni-cad with the lid fitted. (this I know indicates the rear box tamper circuit is secure)

I take the very interesting point about checking the bell box tamper switches actually "make" when the lids are on and this is for the morning, but wouldn't this have been checked in the factory?

I am also suspecting a broken core in the wire between the boxes or the panel may be taking out the tamper or 0V hold off so these will get rung out tomorrow with a beeper if no joy.

[Guest]

I take the very interesting point about checking the bell box tamper switches actually "make" when the lids are on and this is for the morning, but wouldn't this have been checked in the factory?

The people in the factory do not know what your wall is like, all they can do is set the switches up to work on a flat surface.

As brick walls aren't completely flat you usually find it more reliable to bend the tamper switch towards the surface it is being attached to. You may find the tamper switch is sat in the middle of 2 bricks and therefore not actually doing anything.

[ranger]

As Stuart Says, It sounds very much like a problem with the position of the bell box due to the fact it worked on the ground. Put your bell box up on your wall and check the tamper switch is making contact with the back wall and pushing firmly. Adjust if needed.

Replace the lid and start over and see what you get.

Ranger.

[Anusoflannigan]

I beleive these sirens do not have a rear tamper switch, just a breakaway section connected to a tamper micro switch if the unit is prised off the wall.

Try this.. put the wires back as they were originally and ignore the instructions on wiring the two units together. Use the tamper loop from the original cable feeding bell 1.

Say black is your 0v hold-off and Green is the tamper return.

At bell 1 connect green to tamp and black to the black of cable 2. The green of cable 2 goes into 0v of bell 1. At bell 2 connect as normal black to 0v and green to tamp.

So you feed the 0v to bell 2 first and bell 2 tamper return feeds the 0v of bell 1 ..clear as mud

[Guest iancollis]

Right! Normal service is restored and so i would like to thank all those who took the time to write a reply and help out a poor struggler.

The answer was that the tamper switch was just slightly out of adjustment and once the operating lever had been very slightly bent, the switch made and the leds flashed correctly. Its easy when you know how I suppose and the damn thing is not screaming in your ear as you wonder what is wrong.

Thanks again.

Ian

[Guest]

First reply you got said to do that.