superpiper Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 Hello People. First post. Congrats on 1st rate forum and helping people out. Problem: New alarm install. Gaff: 4bed semi c/w coverted garage. House incudes 4 beds, lounge/dining/kitchen/3 toilets/halls etc. Location : Ireland System purchased: http://www.hkc.ie/ 1 SAAB bellbox 1 8 zone panel and RKP 1 Digisender 1 Soundbomb internal siren 2 Pirs(Honeywell IS 215T) Pack of Magnetic Contacts ( honeywell) Pack of vibration sensors House pre-wired: 4 core to windows etc 6 core to hall/ RKP locations etc Me: fairly clever, with good grasp of modern engineering. (Degree) (Honest) Problem: Looking for advice. Comment: I live in ireland. Search for the term 'rip off' and you will understand my willingness to go DIY Spending money alone is not the only reason for going DIY, Last year i had to completely re-wire my Central heating control system because of the lack of any skill whatso ever by the 'Expert' who originally did it. For those who know, my boiler had no interlock and hence was burning gas 24/7 (as is/was) all the other new houses in the street) I eventually realised that the local irish skillforce were generally not trained in these things, and thus i read the boiler manual and did it myself. By the way. the first sentence of a potterton installation manual is 'THIS BOILER MUST HAVE AN INTERLOCK) Now i'm rambling but hey f88k it I go to have an alarm installed in my new house and the fun and games start again. One crowd want to install a wireless system with 3 PIRs and state that pre-wiring is dangerous One crowd want to charge €3000. One crowd cannot understand my insistance on having the upstairs windows wired up? (I have actually seen one of your experts here question the same reasoning for someone wanting to install sensors on upstairs windows, I like to think that my alarm system will tell me i have closed all exits when i leave, very important) So i have a rip off and technical incompitance. So i will do it myself. In doing so, i am very tempted to have a local expert (if i can find one who is not polish) to commision the system, we'll see. Any way back to the essay. I know someone in a local company and got the stuff for €400 (inc vat and all above board) not bad considering retail, the same kit is €900 - yes €900!!! My set up will be: front door; contact, Downstairs hall; PIR over front door covering hallway downstairs windows; 1 vibration per frame and contact each opening Patio; as per window Back door; vibration/contact Keypad; near front door Control unit; near Dist'n box. upstairs hall;Pir covering hall upstairs windows; contact only except over porch & garage roof include vibration Sound bomb; in control panel SAB;front of house Digisender;In control box i have studied the manual and have the following questions. 1. on the 4 core cable to the contacts, do i cut the spare (Tamper wires) or finish them on the brass terminals 2. do i wire the downstairs hall PIR as a Seperate zone (E/E) as per the front door contact? 3. The SAB manual indicates that the external strobe be wired to the internal bell conection in the control panel,Can i wire the internal siren to these terminals as well (only one terminal) 4. Does my system (Design) seem reasonable? to you pro's 5. Do i need to reset my panel to EN 50130 not IS 199 as defaulted? 6. Is a DIYer capable of commisioning such a system properly?? 7. Can you suggest zones and and types? ie (front door contact=entry exit/zone 1) (Hall PIR=Entry/Exit /Zone2) 8. what are the normal wiring looms in a pre-wired house? Diagram??? 9. Is it preferable to hide the control Box?? 10 do you suggest a contact block for all the 12v supply wires? 11. Any tips for the contacts on upvc windows? Any comments or insultsgladly recieved. Edited as per replies
Guest Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 Any comments or insultsgladly recieved. You've come to the right palce 1 SAAB bellbox nice product (comment) I live in ireland. Search for the term 'rip off' and you will understand my willingness to go DIYSpending money alone is not the only reason for going DIY, Last year i had to completely re-wire my Central heating control system..........So i have a rip off and technical incompitance. Really you want to be using a alarm company who is a member of NSAI the Paddy version of NSI / SSAIB (insult & comment) edit* theres always www.ssaib.ie/ the "frosted lucky charm" branch of (more insult than comment ) Don't know where you are but my mates father in-law has a holiday cottage belled up by Skynet & was happy the job
superpiper Posted June 14, 2006 Author Posted June 14, 2006 thanks for the advice. can i wire the front door contact, in series with the Pir over the front door to create one E/E zone?
ranger Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 My set up will be:front door; contact, Downstairs hall; PIR over front door covering hallway downstairs windows; 1 vibration per frame and contact each opening Note that vibrations dont work so well if not positioned correctly, definatly if the frame is PVC Patio; as per window Back door; vibration/contact Vibration on doors are not a good idea as they are easily triggered by opening and closing of doors. I always program vibrations as 24 hr but even if you set it to intruder it can still alarm on entry. Keypad; near front door Control unit; near Dist'n box. upstairs hall;Pir covering hall upstairs windows; contact only except over porch & garage roof include vibration Sound bomb; in control panel How do you plan to fit the sound bomb INSIDE the control panel? Best to have it in a hallway ect SAB;front of house Digisender;In control box 2. do i wire the downstairs hall PIR as a Seperate zone (E/E) as per the front door contact?Yes, a seperate zone is best. It would obviously need to be E/E too. 6. Is a DIYer capable of commisioning such a system properly?? My advice is to just rethink everything before you go ahead as it seems like you are expecting to much and will get so far and become stuck. 9. Is it preferable to hide the control Box??As already mentioned, anywhere that is protected by the alarm when set. Make sure its inside and Yes, hidden is best... understairs cupboard ect ect... Make sure its not somewhere TO hot or TO cold. B) Any comments or insultsgladly recieved. Hope this will do... Sorry if any of it was a bit harsh.. Just ive seen some like this go very wrong Regards, Ranger The above is my personal opinion and not that of my employer or anyone else.
superpiper Posted June 14, 2006 Author Posted June 14, 2006 You can, but why would you want to do it that way? Stuggling to fit all that into 8 zones. any suggestions, ie door contact =zone 1 & Exit entry hall PIR= zone 2 & Inhibited entry. By the way, i will defo be getting this checked by the locals. The very biggest of thanks tj
norman Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 Why?QFA, pain in the butt if you do, a couple of mine chime and that's a pain. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
arfur mo Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 /me sits back and gets the popcorn out. not going to say a word - snap crackle and pop! regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
ranger Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 When i say 'always', im talking about a bells only. (Not that i fit any bells only anymore). I have all my window vibrations on 24hrs. Ive never had any problems with opening/closing or causing an alarm. Its only activated once and that was because i hit it by accident. Ranger The above is my personal opinion and not that of my employer or anyone else.
Guest ALSEC Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 thanks for the advice.can i wire the front door contact, in series with the Pir over the front door to create one E/E zone? Yes but you don't want to.. EU3000 is around
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