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Tamper


Guest DBR

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Posted

:wacko: I have an Optima Compact 6. I had 2 false alarms and the 20yr old PIR's started to stop flashing as per a walk test when the alarm had not been set. An engineer came and told me the PIR's needed changing and to supply and fit 5 would cost me £300. I purchased 5 new award winning PIR's for £74 including post. I switched off the mains and disconnected the batteries Internal & Extrernal. I opened up a PIR and after drawing a plan of the wiring I began to fit the new one. After fitting them all I switched on the mains and reconnected the batteries. The alarm went off and after entering the code it stopped but the tamper came on and locked the control panel. I then had to switch off the mains and disconnect the batteries to stop the external strobe from flashing.

I checked out a manual I had emailed to me via a site like this one but it only told me that there must be a wiring fault and until it is fixed the tamper will not change.

I cannot see how I can wire the PIR's up any differently. On the old PIR there are 2 wires to the tamper that is shown to be switched. 2 more wires to another switched block shown to be switched and 2 marked only + & -.On the new PIR the single 6 connector block is marked 2 wires to the tamper shown to be switched. 2 to marked alarm shown to be switched and 2 marked 12V and OV. So I connected the 2 tamper wires to the tamper connections. 2 to the alarm and assumed that the 2 wires marked + & - on the old PIR should be connected to the 12V & OV connections. I chose the + to be the 12V position. I hope someone can understand all of that.

Hope soemone can help.

DBR

Posted

Assuming your wiring is correct , you still have a tamper fault . Check all your covers are on , and the right way up.Make sure there is a spring on the tamper switches.Also you could identify which circuit is at fault , wiring tamper , panel cover tamper , or bell tamper ,by replacing the links.Are the pirs lighting up ?, if not this is an indication that the wiring is suspect , or that the panel is not supplying 12v.

Posted

It may require an engineer reset due to tamper. My company have recently implemented this practice due to customers playing with the system then asking us to come and fix it and expecting it for free!

Dale

  • 4 weeks later...
Guest warrclev
Posted

I have a similair problem.

I have an Optima XL 4, 4 zone alarm.

The system was also dated and I have replaced two PIR's in exactly the same way as the originator of this topic, ie, tamper wires, power wires and 12V wires.

When powered up both PIR's LED activate as they should, but I have the panel showing a panel fault on zones 2 & 3.

I have checked the wiring, covers etc several times which all appear in order.

Can anyone suggest how I can identify which are zones 2 and 3 and what the tamper fault could possibly be???

Thanks in anticipation

Posted

Get your multimeter out and get measuring!

If the LED's are activating on the new PIR's then you have 12V supply to them.

If you know what you're doing open the case.

240V LIVE MAINS ARE PRESENT INSIDE PANEL - IT WILL KILL!

Measure the loop resistance of Zone 2 and Zone 3, and get somenone else to walk around the rooms where PIR's are fitted. When activated that zone will provide a near short cisrcuit when measuring across the zones. Expect around 4 ohms to 150 ohms depending on length of runs and PIR's. This will identify which zone is where.

Once happy that the switch / PIR is working, check your tamper wiring inside the panel. Replace all covers correctly, and check new PIR's for wiring of tamper cct correctly, and ensure that all covers are replaced correctly.

Silence alarm panel and reset by entering your number or pressing the reset button on the keypad.

If this doesn't work - call an alarm engineer.

Steve Kendall

Plymstock Security Systems

CCTV, Intruder Alarms, Security Lighting & Access Control

Covering Plymouth, Plymstock, Plympton, South Devon and South East Cornwall

Posted

Before you put your meter away, check for a short circuit between the positve loop ( the 2 wires terminating in the 'alarm' connectors at the pir) and a negative ( either the tamper pair at the pir or 0V at the pir.) If a short is present, the panel will deem the positve alarm circuit to be open, even though your meter shows it opening & closing correctly.

Tired & going to bed now...

I went up into the attic...I found a Stradavarius & a Picasso. Unfortunately.....

Stradavarius couldn't paint, and Picasso made a shocking fiddle.

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