Veritas R8 Problem

[Guest hobbit1969]

Hi there,

Have an R8 installed by previous owner. Lived in house for several years but never used (set) it as thought it was broken. Recently got round to having alook at it to see if it could be used. Definitley pre-2000 model, installer/service history unknown. Only problem had been when power had been disconnected during building work causing internal sounder to go off - remedied with user code.

Is connected to 4 PIRs and panic switch by front door, linked to zones 2,3,4,5,6 I think. I know and have amended both user & engineer codes.

A couple of issues - the LED on the control panel is solid red - should it not be green?

Also, when entering code, zone 1 is lit, it also is lit and single beeps constantly as if open when walk testing, even though I am pretty sure nothing is connected to zone 1 - is this possible as I would assume something should be?

Any help appreciated...

[kka]

it would appear the panel is indicating that zone one is open circuit. it would normally be used for entry and exit, on a front or back door. it may well of at some time (pre new door) had a door contact on it. you will need to investigate this or get a pro in to do it.

[FASTCAR]

Agree with KKA , check for a contact on the front door.

A couple of issues - the LED on the control panel is solid red - should it not be green?

The early ones had a red LED instead.

[Guest hobbit1969]

Agree with KKA , check for a contact on the front door.

A couple of issues - the LED on the control panel is solid red - should it not be green?

The early ones had a red LED instead.

Thanks for the tips. Yes it's an old system so the RED led sounds ok.

Regards the door contact there's nothing on there, nor any evidence that one's been there before, but I guess it's possible that it's been messed about with by someone at some point... Is it possible to disbale the zone or omit it in a part set to get the system operational?

[FASTCAR]

If you feel confident / competent - you could look inside the main control box and check whether there is a detector wired to zone one on the pcb.

A better option would be to get it serviced , and have zone 1 checked and if necessary a new contact fitted.

Note: 240v present within main panel.Beware.

[kka]

please moderate if i go to far.

firstly mains voltage is very dangerous and does kill.

second if you have a fused connectin unit with a 3 amp fuse fitted then remove this, hence removing the mains supply to the panel.the alarm will be held on by the battery providing one is fitted,

it not be very careful mains voltage does exsist.

procede only if you are competent enough.

remove the front cover off the panel. the tamper alarm will sound, enter the user code to stop the alarm.

check on pcb for zone one.

if there is two wires coming from it it means there is /was something on this circuit.

at this point i would investigate further as to where the wires went

but to remove zone one out of the equation altogether simply put a link using the same wire across the two terminals marked zone one

close the panel front, and reset the alarm.

this is one way

the other is to program zone one out, but for this you will need the engineers code and i am not confident enough to explain it to you .

i know what to do and can do it but i would have to be standing next to you to show you sorry

some body else might come along and explain in written form.

it is defiently the easier and least dangerous option.

[Guest hobbit1969]

Hi Thanks for the advice.

I am pretty competent with electrics so am happy having a look at the control panel, however if it can be disabled from the RKP all the better - I do have the engineer's code...

[FASTCAR]

There is no zone disable suite on the older Veritas , so it would have to be linked out , or better still , a contact fitted.

[kka]

sorry fastcar did not know that, i must have only used the newer panel. there you go we are always learning thanks.

i agree with you the best solution is to reinstate the circuit on zone one, rather than link it out, if indeed there was a circuit on zone ( the panel in this case would seem to say there was)

[Guest hobbit1969]

sorry fastcar did not know that, i must have only used the newer panel. there you go we are always learning thanks.

i agree with you the best solution is to reinstate the circuit on zone one, rather than link it out, if indeed there was a circuit on zone ( the panel in this case would seem to say there was)

Thanks for all your help with this guys. I('ll take a look at the panel when I get a moment.

By the way, in order to replace PIRs (using existing wiring in place), is it necessary to remove power from the panel first?

Thanks