Guest SammyB Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 Hi, I'm installing a Texe Excell panel with Bosch Blue Line D1-P TriTech Detectors. I'm looking for some expert advise as to where best to place them. They are the pet immune ones as I have two very young active moggies. Here is a link to the layout with the corners numbered. I have 2 detectors to place in this area so looking for the best 2 numbers http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n267/th...06/e26104a9.jpg Thanks in advance for any advice given. Sammy
antinode Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 They should be sited in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and where there is access for cabling... Trade Member
breff Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 No corner is suitable for the room with the open staircase due to the 'moggies' The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct! (Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not)
Adi Posted September 22, 2006 Posted September 22, 2006 You will have to blank the top part of the lens. The area that sees is not pet immune, the instructions will show you. I really can't be ar**** with it anymore.
Guest Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 No corner is suitable for the room with the open staircase due to the 'moggies' I diagree with Glen on this one. In my opinion you would be OK to site the pet immune DT oposite to the top of the staircase. I have done this many times with excellent results. ie: The detector shouldn't be able to see the bottom of the stairs and the first few stairs (on conventional pet immune they will reach above the pet immunity), your drawing isn't that clear which part of the room this is. I'm guessing it is near 2 and therfore the rest of the posts are spot on, 3 is the ideal place to mount. I'm guessing when you say open staircase, it still has some sort of framework? Another thing to look out for is furniture. If the cats are able to jump onto furniture even a three piece suite, this could cause problems.? I have had an issue in a Kitchen where the cat leaped on top of the kitchen cupboards and used the breakfast bar as it's springboard. If this is an issue you can mask certain areas. I suggest you use electrical tape on the PIR's lens until you are happy, then paint the lens with Tipex (same effect but Tipex is not that noticable as it gives a smooth finish, some people use clear varnish this is more messy and you can't correct mistakes as easily). That said I have just had a look at the datasheet on these detectors (attached). They claim to not detect up to 2 animals up to 45Kg. They claim to have a bespoke technology which can tell between human and pet. I think it is something to do with fur and skin but don't quote me. In my opinion install them in 3 & 8 as this will give you the best chance. For the first few days put the sensors on soak test so you don't annoy the neighbours if they don't work. Us installers have probaly all had a bad experience of Pet Immune. One thing is for sure, you are going to have great fun walking around on all fours testing it !! Good luck Dave BlueLineD1_PTri_DataSheet_enUS_F2416324619.pdf
Guest rjbsec Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 No corner is suitable for the room with the open staircase due to the 'moggies' I would sort of agree with this; any position facing the staircase is a potential for false alarms - if it's possible to fit it inside the room and adjacent to, (but not next to), the top of the staircase, (ie so that the cats can't reach out to it with their paws) and facing toward position 3, then that would be my choice.
breff Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 Id go for perimeter protection! The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct! (Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not)
Guest SammyB Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 Thanks to everyone who have give advice. Didn't think to indicate what way the stairs went in the diagram. They go from base at 4 up to 2. (Does that change anyone's opinion?) Dave: The staircase has a banister on the left hand side but is open on the right hand side (as you look at the diagram). also there is not back to each step. Breff: You might be right but as I have the floor up to do the wiring for the perimeter detectors I thought I might as well try some pet DT's. I'll put them on soak test as dave suggested and see how I get on.
Guest Posted September 23, 2006 Posted September 23, 2006 Thanks to everyone who have give advice. Didn't think to indicate what way the stairs went in the diagram. They go from base at 4 up to 2. (Does that change anyone's opinion?) Dave: The staircase has a banister on the left hand side but is open on the right hand side (as you look at the diagram). also there is not back to each step. Breff: You might be right but as I have the floor up to do the wiring for the perimeter detectors I thought I might as well try some pet DT's. I'll put them on soak test as dave suggested and see how I get on. Nope, I've changed to 1 and 6. The stairs are more of a threat for false alarms than the fireplace. That's unless you have a real fire? Worst case scenario is you blank out the stairs with tipex as discussed from both positions. Regards Dave
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