Guest kat21 Posted November 9, 2006 Posted November 9, 2006 just asking if anyone knows if the premier range of control panels run hot (heatsink so hot you cannot touch it) supply voltage and current drain seem fine. Ive swapped out the LMT317t regulator to see if that would make any difference but it didnt. I'm just asking anyone that is familar with this range of contol panels for comments? kat21
Guest kat21 Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 No, the location and temperature in the location zone isnt excessive, there is nothing to give out any heat other than the control panel itself. No pipe work, no radiators, no hotwater tanks nothing. the keypad blinks for a split second which made me think the regulator was tripping out and re setting itself, but, I have changed the regulator. Ive also swapped out the capacitor too again no effect on the over all temperature of the heatsink, the system is not overloaded because there is very little current draw. kat21
bellman Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 Check the battery, if it is faulty it will cause the symptoms you describe, what is the supply voltage and the current draw at the battery ? Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
Guest Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 Check the battery, if it is faulty it will cause the symptoms you describe, what is the supply voltage and the current draw at the battery ?Regards Bellman I keep telling you lot the Premier is a 'HOT' panel Kat, I have had a few which run quite toastie. Good suggestion from Bellman though, check the battery and also check current draw in general. We normally do that by putting a meter onto amps and putting it in series to the battery. Disconnect the mains keeping your meter on the terminals and you will see the total current draw. I'm sure you know but reconnect the mains before you remove the meter. See how you get on. Dave
Guest kat21 Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 Just doing a soak test, resistors across each zone battery voltage 12.05v system current 1.08 A with power removed 13.08 powered v system current 1.08 A battery voltage 11.77v system current 0.994a half an hour on battery power only no devices connected regards kat21
Guest Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 Just doing a soak test, resistors across each zone battery voltage 12.05v system current 1.08 A with power removed 13.08 powered v system current 1.08 A battery voltage 11.77v system current 0.994a half an hour on battery power only no devices connected regards kat21 Kat is this the new Premier with the 2 amp supply? if so the current is OK. If not then your power is overloaded and you need a boxed PSU desperatly. The battery voltage is low as well, normally around 13.78 is the norm. Take all the detector power out and see what you get then? Dave
Adi Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 I cant believe he has been swapping components on his pcb. I really can't be ar**** with it anymore.
norman Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 She . Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.
bellman Posted November 10, 2006 Posted November 10, 2006 I cant believe he has been swapping components on his pcb. Err, I do that regularly Anyway, that adjustable regulator is a 1.5A part. Regards Bellman Service Engineer and all round nice bloke ) The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.
Guest kat21 Posted November 11, 2006 Posted November 11, 2006 premier 24 end station software version 7.72 Board manufacture date march 2006 the regulator was easy to take off with a proper temp controlled iron. Ive also checked the capacitor @35v 2200uf which wasnt leaky. did a battery swap out with an old battery and the onboard battery monitoring software kicked up a battery fault, but when I put the new battery back on it cleared, so, it doesnt appear to be the battery. there are only four pirs on the system all texecoms again no board faults reported via ptc leds. kat21 I wish these alarm Manufacturers would build boards with independant psu units so they can be swapped out instead of all this messing around.
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