Dead Concept 6 13v Supply

[mansion75]

Hi Guys,

I am absolutely desperate to find out what I can do with my Concept 6 Control panel. Whilst wiring a new PIR there may or may not have been a short on that zone's PIR 13V supply wires.....eitherway, I dont think there is an output on the 13V PIR output on the control panel anymore. I havent checked with a multimeter but am 99% sure. Any ideas what to do now??? Please dont suggest a new panel!!!

Thanks ever so much

Chris

[Guest rjbsec]

If you've shorted the 12v supply you will need to replace the fuse inside the panel BUT remove mains power before you open the panel ... or call an engineer.

[mansion75]

Hi, Thanks for the amazingly quick response

Is there a specific fuse for the zone 13 V output......because I can't find it. The panel is still operational...and the sub panel and the external bell box...just not the 13V zone output.....

Any ideas...Ill take another look in the meantime

Thanks

Chris

[arfur mo]

Hi, Thanks for the amazingly quick response

Is there a specific fuse for the zone 13 V output......because I can't find it. The panel is still operational...and the sub panel and the external bell box...just not the 13V zone output.....

Any ideas...Ill take another look in the meantime

Thanks

Chris

hi chris,

please be careful you have disconected the power if you have or before you have the lid open to keep yourself safe, if you start doing a jig while it may be funny for the wife to watch and it will remind her of the honeymoon sparks and all, but not so much fun for you.

i think your struggling with the terminology a little bit so lets clear that p first.

'13.6' volts is the actual charging voltage expected, but it is rated as nominally 12 volts (so is called 12volts), your looking for a pair of terminals on the PCB marked AUX normally. the fuse that protects this will be on the main PCB usually amongst several others, and may also be marked 'AUX' or 'AUX Supply'.

Zone is where the detection is connected as in Zone 1, Zone 2 and so on but also called CCT (closed circuit) or Circuit. we do this to confuse the population in general into thinking we are a superior race, and also so you will all give us loads of your wonger and save the best women for us.

i would say if the fuse went and the external siren did not sound, it is most likely the siren's internal battery is not connected or has failed (very rare). so i recommend you do need an engineer to rectify this. not rocket science but as there are obvious hazards in using ladders as well as high voltages from the strobe circuit, into few thousands of volts beleive it ot not, no current to speak of, so won't likely to directly kill youl, but the ground breaking your fall after getting a shock is a different matter entirely.

the amazingly quick response is a actually by product of us lot not knowing anything either, but hoping someone else will

just playing with, as bored totally nippleless with paperwork, so please come back if still stuck.

regs

alan

[mansion75]

Thanks for the extra info, now for an update...

On this particular PCB for some reason the 12V aux output is labeled as "13V" (don't know why but hey there you go!) to further confuse matters there are also only two fuses (20mm 160ma) that I can see mounted on the PCB, one labelled bell/strobe and one labelled battery, neither for the aux 12v output. When I supply my PIR's with an external power source (from a 12V adapter) hey presto we're in business, when they go back in the block on the pcb.....no go. Still haven't managed to get a meter to the "13V" points but am pretty sure it will read 0 V DC. It's not like I'm trying to use the wrong terminals either because it has worked for 3 years with the PIR's power wires terminating into the "13V" terminal which I understand would usually read AUX 12V or something like that. I'm getting desperate now and even considering sticking an additional 12V mains transformer into the panel just to power the PIR's. Aaaaahhgg. Here's a thought, could I just piggyback this into the 12V battery output (might be a silly idea and not sure if this is AC / DC).

Once again thank you all for your help.

Much appreciated guys

Chris

[Guest rjbsec]

Thanks for the extra info, now for an update...

On this particular PCB for some reason the 12V aux output is labeled as "13V" (don't know why but hey there you go!) to further confuse matters there are also only two fuses (20mm 160ma) that I can see mounted on the PCB, one labelled bell/strobe and one labelled battery, neither for the aux 12v output. When I supply my PIR's with an external power source (from a 12V adapter) hey presto we're in business, when they go back in the block on the pcb.....no go. Still haven't managed to get a meter to the "13V" points but am pretty sure it will read 0 V DC. It's not like I'm trying to use the wrong terminals either because it has worked for 3 years with the PIR's power wires terminating into the "13V" terminal which I understand would usually read AUX 12V or something like that. I'm getting desperate now and even considering sticking an additional 12V mains transformer into the panel just to power the PIR's. Aaaaahhgg. Here's a thought, could I just piggyback this into the 12V battery output (might be a silly idea and not sure if this is AC / DC).

Once again thank you all for your help.

Much appreciated guys

Chris

Some pcb's mark 12v, some 13v and some aux - no problem.

Either you have blown a component, (unlikely just from a short, but possible), or one of the fuses has blown.

Check the fuses visually to see if you can see evidence of it blowing and replace it - a meter will make the job much easier and more precise.

[Adi]

So why cant we suggest new panel if the one you have is faulty?

[Guest]

On this particular PCB for some reason the 12V aux output is labeled as "13V" (don't know why but hey there you go!)

No real difference. 12, 13, 13.8, 13.6, AUX...... all will do. The output is the same whatever you write next to it. Could say bananas but as long as it outputs around 12-13V DC then it will be fine.

to further confuse matters there are also only two fuses (20mm 160ma) that I can see mounted on the PCB, one labelled bell/strobe and one labelled battery, neither for the aux 12v output.

Not really confusing. Be handy if you actually had a meter of some sort rather than just guessing as to wht the problem might be.

When I supply my PIR's with an external power source (from a 12V adapter) hey presto we're in business, when they go back in the block on the pcb.....no go.

So there's a fault with the panel then. To find this we need a meter of som........ Oh, well, come back to that then.

Still haven't managed to get a meter to the "13V" points but am pretty sure it will read 0 V DC.

'Pretty sure'? Meter required, not in the habit of just guessing.

It's not like I'm trying to use the wrong terminals either because it has worked for 3 years with the PIR's power wires terminating into the "13V" terminal which I understand would usually read AUX 12V or something like that.

Nope, understand that. As I think I may have mentioned, we need to find out what the exact fault is, damaged component, blown fuse, something else.....

I'm getting desperate now

Not desperate enough to actually test anything or call someone out to it though?

and even considering sticking an additional 12V mains transformer into the panel just to power the PIR's.

So if you leave the house and there's a power cut the PIR's all go into alarm and trigger the sounders. Not a great idea tbh.

Aaaaahhgg. Here's a thought, could I just piggyback this into the 12V battery output (might be a silly idea and not sure if this is AC / DC).

Actually, I'm beginning to think that maybe calling someone to come and sort this out might be a better option. Forget I mentioned getting a meter to it.

HTH

[arfur mo]

DONT CONNECT TO THE BATTERY TERMS YOU WILL HAVE UNFUSED 12V AND POSS FIRE IF FAULT ON CABLE

your fuses are in fact battery on the right and 12v everything else on the left and they are 1.6A not 160mA (pull one out and have a look) wire them back in and swap the fuses over do they work then? if so your fuse has gone but you really need this looked at mate.

following on, go to Maplins grap a packet of 1.6 amp 20mm fuses replace both on panel, reconnect pirs while observing fuses, blown again = trouble on that wire.

if all's well pirs will work shut lid your ar back where you started, but still get it looked at profesionally, saving a few quid here is not cheaper than being cleared out or worse vandalised - trust me, we see the results all to often of saving a few bob your house is never the same again.

regs

alan