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Mystery Bell Box


Guest futura

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Guest futura
Posted

Hello

Wondering if anyone can help? I am wondering how to wire up my mystery bell box?

I am trying to connect it to a Castle Care-Tech Meridian CT3050.

The outputs on the panel (and inputs!) are HO+, HO-, SABT, BELL-, STR- and the unknown OP10.

The ins and outs on the bell are BT-, ST, TR, TS, ENG, +R, -R, +H, -H, BT+.

On the bell there are two tamper switches one for the wall mounting and one for the face panel.

There is a strobe, two sounders and two ultra bright LEDs.

There is a loose fly lead labelled FL1 which is connected directly to the + terminal of the 6V lithium battery mounted on the PCB.

There is some kind of timing jumper labelled JP1- Timer 20 mins then next to the actual jumper pins it is labelled 3 mins, 10, 8, 5s.

JP2 seems to be some kind of control for the way the leds flash.

BT- and H- are both the same connection and appear to be the GND of the circuit board.

The board is labelled ELMDENE HLD9948 PCB 100084 ISSUE 4.

This is all I know I have tried connecting it up and the unit keeps making my ears distort I am clearly not getting the hold off right.

I know I should buy a new one as they are only 20 quid but it has presented too much of a challenge.

Any help massively appreciated!!

William

will@urbanscience.info

Posted

HO+ to +H

HO- to -H

BELL- to R-

STR- to ST

SABT to TR

loose fly lead labelled FL1 which is connected directly to the + terminal of the 6V lithium battery mounted on the PCB.

Are you sure it comes from the battery+, On most Elmdene sounders this goes to BT-

It will keep sounding to you close both tampers..

Elmdene

Hope this helps

jpaul

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.

Guest futura
Posted

cheers jpaul thanks for the massively quick reply

I will give it a try now. I will post the results.

Only other question is any ideas on BT-, TS, ENG and +R? Just out of curiosity I was wondering what they do?

Also the OP10 on the Castle Panel? Wondering what this does. Nowhere to be identified in the volumes of manuals I have downloaded from their site.

Wow there is some really good advice on this forum and some very clued up people that are so willing to help.

Thanks to all!!

Seems strange though wouldnt giving people (ie DIYers and newbies like me)advice helping them out with alarm wiring only do everyone on here out of business?

I guess everyone on here are installers well established and just happy to help out. A really nice vibe

Many thanks..

William

Posted

R+ is +bell triger

TS is tamper supply

ENG is used for engineer mode

BT- is for flylead or is used with BT+ for external battery

jpaul

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.

Guest futura
Posted

Hello jpaul

You sound like you might have wired an alarm panel or two before!!

Absolutely spot on the alarm is now flashing leds, strobes when instructed and only distorts my ears when I ask it to.

I see now why these units are only supposed to be on the side of a house not on desks. Ouch they are loud.

Many thanks for the help nice one Mr JPaul. Thanks also for the additional questions answered.

Keep it real and super busy Security Installers all over the world.*%

William..

Posted
Many thanks for the help nice one Mr JPaul. Thanks also for the additional questions answered.
You are welcome, please you got it to work :)
You sound like you might have wired an alarm panel or two before!!

One or two :D:D

Regs

jpaul

There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.

Guest bladedawg
Posted

it sounds like its a SATTELITE< siren if it has internal battery, this way if the crook cuts your wiring it will still go off, the timer should be to set a time out period if it does get disconnected from the supply,

the generally work on the principal that when disconnected the holdoff is cut or removed, which means they have power all the time to charge the batt. and power to the siren circuit and it goes into alarm when d/cted.

well hope you got ur stuff hooked up, si spose it costs nothing to offer advice. but generally MOST installers dont support customers installing / programming their systems due to the CONSIDEABLE amount of unknows, I find to many installers cant install / program a system to STDs let alone the public...

thats my opinion if you dont like it, then dont use it.. nothing gained nothing lost....

We are magicians not technicians.. well most of the time.....

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