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Adt Galaxy Panel...


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Posted

i think this topic needs closing i can see its going to kick off shortly

pete .................

Any comments/opinions posted are my own and not that of my employers.

Posted
i think this topic needs closing i can see its going to kick off shortly

think you may be right

:whistle:

Posted
I need to have an //.National Installer.// installed Galaxy (16 / 16+ I belive) panel defaulted to remove the engineers code and change the dial out number from the ARC number. system is about 4 years old (battery is only 2 years old - have a few new ones anyway)

**I'm not asking for codes or defaulting info**

The system is no longer under //.National Installer.//, has been out of contract due to cancelation for well over a year due to a piss poor install job (high number of false smoke / CO alarms on one of two installed smoke/CO sensors, since fitting and various other faults). I couldn't belive the wiring job, it was BAD! - Wires were twisted together with paper MASKING TAPE over them and fitted under carpets in door ways and heavly used floor areas, PIR installed facing very large sun catching, west facing windows, with large radiator below window, Most PIRS fitted to original victorian architrave around interior doors, with cables run up the front of the door surround and cable tacked in place, others with large holes drilled into the frames and architrave! Thats NOT a good thing for a grade II listed building!! :ranting: numerous cables connected together (twisted + masking tape) leading to single cable and hidden under carpet in front of the front door, The Galaxy panel was installed in a VERY cold, humid, damp area in the cellar, along with a PIR that faces a radiator -a heat spot in a cold damp environment (?? Yeah that won't give a false alarm....! ) etc, etc, etc. Fobbed off numerous times with all sorts of excuses for the faults, including a mysterious "voltage transient current" (huh?? pick one, voltage OR current - not BOTH!) of 90 volts ( blamed on the main fuse box RCD???? I might have agreed if the house was powered by a switch mode PSU.....) - of which an electrical engineer found NO trace of and said if that was the case, we would all be getting electrocuted everytime we touched something electrical, and that //.National Installer.// were talking out their //.B.W.F.// - surprise surprise!, "Faulty" sensors which were replace numerous times, a cable staple was found in the wire, so they just pulled it out and didn't check for shorts!! And a whole host of dubious reasons they tried to use, that I simply shot down in flames with logic ( I think they were hoping I didn't know anything about electricity or electronics - wrong!). To top it all of, one "engineer" even had the cheek to blame it on the cat for chewing the cables........how would the cat get under the fitted carpet then?? I would Think some one might have noticed the moving bump!??! :hmm:

Due to the number of faulty alarms, the system was eventually set as "bells only" because the police and fire brigade said they were going to start charging per call out.

They DID eventually "cure" the false fire / CO alarms - they disconected the faulting smoke / CO sensor! :angry2: Fire brigade noted on one of their "regular" call outs to the house, that the faulting sensor was incorrectly located anyway....

On canceling the contract they first tried to bully us to keep the contract, then threatend to remove the system and made a point of saying that it would leave "obvious holes in walls and ceilings where it had been installed" - Charming! I then returned the favour and threatend to remove it myself and hand deliver it back to them.......By the nearest window in their office, which also might leave an obvious hole! They didn't seem so pushy after that, I wonder why?

Sorry for rant, happens every time I think of, hear or see //.National Installer.//.

Anyways back on topic, Spoke to one local alarm company, guy said that the panel is made to //.National Installer.//'s own specs (so that will be the "broken" specs then?) and the NVM can not be crashed and defaulted and recomends ripping the lot out and replacing it (a possibility I am considering anyway).

So, Is this guy correct about this, or is it just that //.National Installer.// have there own software spec installed into standard galaxy hardware?**********************************************( believe I know the correct default procedure for this panel, but figured better to let a pro do it)

I susspect that he either didn't know how, or just might have been fishing for more buisness rather than a "quicky" default with no contract take over. Thats fair enough really, they gota make money somehow! :)

Oh, and I'm fully aware that the galaxy panel is not DIY friendly (though I doubt I could do any worse than //.National Installer.//...) but I intend to test the panel out myself and check it's not faulty ( this I CAN do), and replace ALL the cabling FIRST, before I even attempt to program it, or more likely have it programed by a decent installer. Seems a waste of a decent panel to just rip it out without trying first.

And no comments about Insurance please, the alarm is not (and never was) listed on the insurance. So no problems there. :)

Thanx.

SS

Please read the site rules before making posts.

HI ex //.National Installer.// here sounds like it was fitted by a dealership not //.National Installer.// thay fitted //.National Installer.// equipment and then //.National Installer.// buy the contracts of the dealership the co detectors are **** i had to replace loads with optical smokes while i was there and you can crash it and it will return to factory default code not //.National Installer.// codes hope this helps

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