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Optima Xl6 Pir


robb77

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Posted

I have Optima XL6 alarm installed in 1998. I've been told the reason for one of my PIRs causing a false alarm is due to age (>8yrs). Could this be the cause? If so, I need to replace the wired PIR and could someone please guide me on how to install a new PIR, including how to prevent the alarm going off during installation? Also, please could you recommend the type PIR to use - I'm told certain PIRs are good at stopping false alarms from occuring. Many thanks.

Rob

Posted

in the absence of amauturandy (aka the battery mod)

1) have you had your system checked lately?

2) when was your battery last changed?

if you suffered a short power cut, the most sensitive pir to low voltage will operate 1st, the panel will ignore any other pir triggering causing you to blame the pir.

if the battery is more than 2 years old this is where i would start as i'd advise replacement. age of the detector, is a much rarer reason for false alarms but make and model come into play here to. if you attempt this battery or pir change yourself, be aware lethal household power is present within the panel and you could receive a severe or even fatal shock (so no complaining in here if you come back dead please :no: ).

unless you have the engineers code you can not tamper with the system without setting of the alarms internal sirens, a simple test would be to set the alarm with only you in the house and switch of the mains to the panel from the fused spur, wait about 5 - 10 mins if possible, but obviously do not move through the detection, to see if the alarm activates. if so your battery is deceased and requires replacement promptly.

to be overconfident is to be incompetent, so be careful you do not extend your own ability too far.

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted
in the absence of amauturandy (aka the battery mod)

The battery mod? Me? Don't think so... :no:

You must be thinking of someone else, which is why I have said nothing.

Computer mod maybe :whistle:

Posted
in the absence of amauturandy (aka the battery mod)

1) have you had your system checked lately?

2) when was your battery last changed?

if you suffered a short power cut, the most sensitive pir to low voltage will operate 1st, the panel will ignore any other pir triggering causing you to blame the pir.

if the battery is more than 2 years old this is where i would start as i'd advise replacement. age of the detector, is a much rarer reason for false alarms but make and model come into play here to. if you attempt this battery or pir change yourself, be aware lethal household power is present within the panel and you could receive a severe or even fatal shock (so no complaining in here if you come back dead please :no: ).

unless you have the engineers code you can not tamper with the system without setting of the alarms internal sirens, a simple test would be to set the alarm with only you in the house and switch of the mains to the panel from the fused spur, wait about 5 - 10 mins if possible, but obviously do not move through the detection, to see if the alarm activates. if so your battery is deceased and requires replacement promptly.

to be overconfident is to be incompetent, so be careful you do not extend your own ability too far.

regs

alan

Thanks for advice.

The system has not been serviced for 5 yrs. The false alarm symptom occurs intermittently across different PIRs on different days. Excuse my ignorance for clarifying potential faulty battery, as the alarm system is also connected to main supply; isn't the battery an auxillary supply and only used when no main power supply is being used?

Faulty Battery: There is a fuse box directly outside above the alarm panel. Would taking the 13 amp fuse out effectively cut the mains supply to the alarm system? And as you say switch off mains suppy(fuse takien out?), set the alarm system on, wait 5-10 mins without moving or triggering the detectors during which time the alarm system will automatically be activated caused by a weak battery? Again please excuse my ignorance, if the battery is deceased and the mains power supply is off, where does it get the power to activate the alarm? Also, can the battery be replaced without activating the alarm?

I've managed to get hold of the engineer information document from the web, EDIT due to prudence - Arfur......... and asuming the PIR could also be faulty, how does one change a PIR without activating the alarm? Also, as my system is so old, would it be wise to intsall better PIRs - any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Posted

Hi Rob, EDIT information given not concidered prudent for security reasons, so just follow the information on your engineer instructions on how to get the panel into 'engineer mode' and that will inhibit the tamper circuit (So the alarm won't sound when a lid is removed). My first advice would be just the same as everybody else, get the panel battery replaced and see how your alarm performs before you commit yourself to new detectors. I would strongly recommend getting a pro in to check your system thoroughly though, as 5 years with no maintenance is a long time to go.

The battery isn't there just as a standby, it acts as a filter as such. Like when your lights flicker, without your battery there to smooth out fluctuations your bells would be going every 5 minutes!

As for changing detectors fitting is just a reverse of removal. Make a note of which colour goes where, and copy into the new detectors, you'll have a pair for power, a pair for alarm, and a pair for tamper.

I bought an Optima XL6 with the money from my 16th birthday, now how sad is that!!! :huh:

Posted
Hi Rob, that is correct about the engineer code being fixed on an XL6, so just follow the information on your engineer instructions on how to get the panel into 'engineer mode' and that will inhibit the tamper circuit (So the alarm won't sound when a lid is removed). My first advice would be just the same as everybody else, get the panel battery replaced and see how your alarm performs before you commit yourself to new detectors. I would strongly recommend getting a pro in to check your system thoroughly though, as 5 years with no maintenance is a long time to go.

The battery isn't there just as a standby, it acts as a filter as such. Like when your lights flicker, without your battery there to smooth out fluctuations your bells would be going every 5 minutes!

As for changing detectors fitting is just a reverse of removal. Make a note of which colour goes where, and copy into the new detectors, you'll have a pair for power, a pair for alarm, and a pair for tamper.

I bought an Optima XL6 with the money from my 16th birthday, now how sad is that!!! :huh:

Thanks very much. I will verify the battery failure as suggested, but under what different working conditions can a PIR become faulty? Eg. can a PIR displaying the 'red' light on motion detection still be considered to be faulty? How does one test a faulty PIR, assuming wiring, battery, and panel setup are correct?

Rob

Posted
The battery mod? Me? Don't think so... :no:

You must be thinking of someone else, which is why I have said nothing.

Computer mod maybe :whistle:

hi andy,

was as gentle 'windup' for Angus for when he gets back :P

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted
Thanks for advice.

The system has not been serviced for 5 yrs. The false alarm symptom occurs intermittently across different PIRs on different days. Excuse my ignorance for clarifying potential faulty battery, as the alarm system is also connected to main supply; isn't the battery an auxillary supply and only used when no main power supply is being used?

Faulty Battery: There is a fuse box directly outside above the alarm panel. Would taking the 13 amp fuse out effectively cut the mains supply to the alarm system? And as you say switch off mains suppy(fuse takien out?), set the alarm system on, wait 5-10 mins without moving or triggering the detectors during which time the alarm system will automatically be activated caused by a weak battery? Again please excuse my ignorance, if the battery is deceased and the mains power supply is off, where does it get the power to activate the alarm? Also, can the battery be replaced without activating the alarm?

I've managed to get hold of the engineer information document from the web, EDIT due to prudence - Arfur......... and asuming the PIR could also be faulty, how does one change a PIR without activating the alarm? Also, as my system is so old, would it be wise to intsall better PIRs - any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Hi Rob,

the test i laid out did not require removal of the lid (needing the engineer code) or exposing you to potential danger of shock, a decently equiped service engineer would test your battery with a specific 'load' test meter.

firstly, at 5 years untouched no arguments get a new battery installed pronto, you are at the very far end of its functional life (if it works at all) and it is a vital item. you external siren if wired and configured properly can operate on it's own battery for a period of time.

to exsplain to many why you would test with the alarm set, then remove the supply is because if the battery is low not dead, the pir's could be triggered by the sudden voltage change (if the power is off prior no sudden change), either when going onto battery or comming off it.

again both situations will cause different detectors to activate. if you panel battery is completely dead it wil go inactive, when the power is restored it may indicate randomly the 1st zone sensed in alarm, even those which are bridged out.

without knowing make or model we would be hard put to say swap out your pir's due to age, some models were suspected to fail after a shortish period. i have pirs on systems which were installed over 20 years ago, which still function perfectly.

you might open the pir's and check for spider infestation, also hoover out the gap behind them if in a corner as this also causes false alarms.

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

Posted
Hi Rob,

the test i laid out did not require removal of the lid (needing the engineer code) or exposing you to potential danger of shock, a decently equiped service engineer would test your battery with a specific 'load' test meter.

firstly, at 5 years untouched no arguments get a new battery installed pronto, you are at the very far end of its functional life (if it works at all) and it is a vital item. you external siren if wired and configured properly can operate on it's own battery for a period of time.

to exsplain to many why you would test with the alarm set, then remove the supply is because if the battery is low not dead, the pir's could be triggered by the sudden voltage change (if the power is off prior no sudden change), either when going onto battery or comming off it.

again both situations will cause different detectors to activate. if you panel battery is completely dead it wil go inactive, when the power is restored it may indicate randomly the 1st zone sensed in alarm, even those which are bridged out.

without knowing make or model we would be hard put to say swap out your pir's due to age, some models were suspected to fail after a shortish period. i have pirs on systems which were installed over 20 years ago, which still function perfectly.

you might open the pir's and check for spider infestation, also hoover out the gap behind them if in a corner as this also causes false alarms.

regs

alan

Hi All, I've replaced the battery as suggested from maplin's, although the salesperson thought the battery still apeared to be well charged when tested. Nevertheless, its was an old battery, but the problem I have now is that the TAMPER light seems to stay on when the panel is closed. I can't use any of keys on the panel board, there is no sounding response. Can someone please guide me how to get the normal 'day' mode light to appear?

Rob

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