Info On Wiring 240v Pan/tilt

[rog8811]

Hi folks, First tech post, I hope you can help me out.

I have in the past made a pan and tilt dragons head (to scare the kids at halloween ) with limit switches and control unit BUT that was all 12v DC and easy for me to work out the wiring diagram. It also ran me out of low volt geared motors so when I decided I wanted to build a CCTV system for my garden I started looking for bits and pieces to build it.

I have now got hold of a videmech type20 auto tilt head, It is a 240v AC unit so I dont want to be messing about and maybe damaging it. I need to find out which wires colours to connect up to get it running. I would be grateful for any help.

Regards rog8811

[rog8811]

I have now had the end cover off to see if I can work out the wiring .......My guess is that the motors have 2 windings switched through a relay. so for one direction of movement 240v only, to reverse direction 240v + 24v DC to relay supply.

Does that sound right??????? Even if it is right, the wires change colour inside the loom so my first question still applies.

Regards rog8811

[luggsey]

I have now had the end cover off to see if I can work out the wiring .......My guess is that the motors have 2 windings switched through a relay. so for one direction of movement 240v only, to reverse direction 240v + 24v DC to relay supply.

Does that sound right??????? Even if it is right, the wires change colour inside the loom so my first question still applies.

Regards rog8811

I have tinkered a Mustang 240V before (Molinx) and that had three wires to each motor I think, ground/foward/reverse.

The DC ones just change polarity to reverse I think.

Each motor will also have a "pair" which has the pot feedback value on them to tell the controler "where" they are.

I strongly suggest you only tinker with 240v if you are trained to do so and know how to work in a safe way as 240v can kill!

[rog8811]

@luggsey, Thanks for that, these motors are definately 240v AC four wire...In my years of apprenticeship I was trained as sparky and plumber, although I have never really used the skill, except for my own purposes, I do give mains leccy high respect.

@sparky169 I was googling when I happened on this forum, thanks for the link but at first glance it is looking like a low volt unit but I will study it closely to see if I can glean any useful info.

Regards rog8811

[luggsey]

@luggsey, Thanks for that, these motors are definately 240v AC four wire...In my years of apprenticeship I was trained as sparky and plumber, although I have never really used the skill, except for my own purposes, I do give mains leccy high respect.

@sparky169 I was googling when I happened on this forum, thanks for the link but at first glance it is looking like a low volt unit but I will study it closely to see if I can glean any useful info.

Regards rog8811

If they are four wire you may find one pair is joined as common. You should be able to suss the wiring from the ammount of connectors in the plug as well.

[camerabloke]

though one was common, the 1 left, 1 right, 1 up , 1 down?

[camerabloke]

hes one missing then

[Doktor Jon]

Should be 6 conductors for a 240v head, don't forget the earth wire.

I've not used this model personally, but most P/T's have a similar common wiring set up.

If the P/T is using syncronous motors (often a silver can motor with a gear box married on the front end), then as has already been suggested, you really only need to establish the Earth [generally green or yellow, or yellow/grn banded] and Neutral [usually blue, or occasionally black] connections to be in business. You'll probably find that the neutral from each motor will be commoned either on a PCB or in a terminal block, with the other conductors arranged alongside.

In theory, with the Neutral and Earth connected up, the motor should drive when 240v is applied to any of the other four conductors (Up, Down, Left and Right as suggested by camerabloke ).

If the head is fitted with an autopan board, or any other functions (heater, positional feedback etc.) then there will be additional conductors.

Be sure to check that the motors are 240v and not 24v (don't always assume that the external info plates are correct), only ever work with mains if you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing (if in doubt leave it out!), and finally, if they are syncronous motors, if my memory serves me correctly, they are extremely robust and very difficult to damage electrically ... but not impossible

[rog8811]

Thanks again guys..... Def 4 wires to each motor coloured white, white, white and............white . (slightly unfair description for effect ) 2 of the wires on each motor have a slight yellow tinge to them.

I got the angle mirror out and motor plates state 220 -240v

I will pin buzz to see which wire goes to earth and see if I can trace the rest through the loom where they change colour.

The only place where the wires come together is at the socket to the outside world, there are no terminal blocks, connector strips or plugs and sockets anywhere, (other than on the 24volt relay board), inside the unit.

[Doktor Jon]

rog8811

Not a lot I can add to my previous post, but it's possible the relay board is for autopan operation on the 'pan motor' (see if the lower motor wires go back to that).

It's a bit odd though that the P/T is 240v operation, and there's a 24v relay inside; I would have expected it to be a 240v relay so the same control voltage for all functions - unless of course the voltage steps down on the board

I was trying to remember the wiring configuration on some of the older Berger motors I've tinkered with in the past.

TBH, I can't remember for sure, but I've certainly seen set ups where the voltage is applied to two different 'live' conductors to control the direction of rotation (So 4 terminals Neutral, Earth, Clockwise and counter Clockwise).

It is also possible (but unlikely) that there is a tapping wire, so for 220v it's applied to one conductor, and for 240v that is linked to another point (same as windings on a transformer) ... but if I were you, i'd ignore that suggestion for the moment.

If there were any identifying markings on the motors, it may help to find a more definitive answer; otherwise it's down to the faithful test meter, and a bit of inspired circuit tracking.

Let us know how you get on.