Veritas R8 tamper fault

[Guest Brogan]

Find the tamper pair inside the pir and twist them together, if the tamper clears problem is with the pir. Just a long shot though before doing that- you did press RESET didn't you?

10820[/snapback]

Which pair is it normally?

I have exactly the same problem as the thread starter.

For the last few days, the system has been acting up and the alarm has been triggered a few times by the kitchen sensor.

I removed the cover to clean the inside of the PIR housing and the tamper light on the keypad will not now reset.

Additionally the alarm won't do anything.

I have removed and replaced the PIR cover several times and each time the alarm is triggered so obviously the tamper mechanism is working.

I must therefore deduce that the installer has disabled the ability to reset the tamper from the keypad using my code.

One thing I did notice is one of the wires (blue) was trapped between the PIR housing and the cover and some of the insulation has been removed resulting in bare wires.

I can't imagine this is intentional and can only assume it was badly fitted by the installer?

I don't really want to call the installer out for this as it's going to be expensive for what is a 10 second job.

Can anyone help?

[Guest]

Which pair is it normally?

31821[/snapback]

The one's connected to the tamper terminals.

[amateurandy]

Brogan said

I have exactly the same problem as the thread starter.

For the last few days, the system has been acting up and the alarm has been triggered a few times by the kitchen sensor.

I removed the cover to clean the inside of the PIR housing and the tamper light on the keypad will not now reset.

Additionally the alarm won't do anything.

Just to clarify things that you would probably find exploring this place for a while:

1. Most (no doubt I'll be corrected on this) alarms effectively "lock up" if there's a tamper fault. You have to find and fix the fault before using the alarm. Or, as someone said, bypass the tamper by linking the relevant terminals together inside the controller.

2. There are no standard colour conventions for alarm wiring. You will need to look at the connections inside the PIR (and maybe the controller) to figure out which wire does what.

Good luck!

[Guest Brogan]

Just to clarify things that you would probably find exploring this place for a while:

1. Most (no doubt I'll be corrected on this) alarms effectively "lock up" if there's a tamper fault. You have to find and fix the fault before using the alarm. Or, as someone said, bypass the tamper by linking the relevant terminals together inside the controller.

31828[/snapback]

OK, found the tamper pair.

If I'd looked closer intially I would have seen the word TAMPER printed on the terminal block...

Just to clarify, should I be shorting the wires that go back to the panel or the actual 2 terminals inside the PIR?

I would expect it to be the wires as it is the short that is relayed back to the control panel.

Anyway, it's as I feared, shorting the tamper pair together has no effect.

I suspect my installer has disabled the tamper reset function which means I have no choice but to call him out and pay the ridiculous reset fee for 10 seconds work

[amateurandy]

I suspect my installer has disabled the tamper reset function which means I have no choice but to call him out and pay the ridiculous reset fee for 10 seconds work

Did you note my point 1? Your installer probably hasn't disabled anything, that's what alarms do.

1. Most (no doubt I'll be corrected on this) alarms effectively "lock up" if there's a tamper fault. You have to find and fix the fault before using the alarm. Or, as someone said, bypass the tamper by linking the relevant terminals together inside the controller.

Logic: Tamper circuits are normally a closed loop. If the PIR is faulty linking the tamper wires together in the PIR will clear the problem. If that doesn't work then maybe the cable is faulty. If you've got a global tamper it could be anywhere.

[Guest Brogan]

Did you note my point 1? Your installer probably hasn't disabled anything, that's what alarms do.

Logic: Tamper circuits are normally a closed loop. If the PIR is faulty linking the tamper wires together in the PIR will clear the problem. If that doesn't work then maybe the cable is faulty. If you've got a global tamper it could be anywhere.

31830[/snapback]

There was no tamper alarm until I removed the PIR cover to clean inside it, which is why I don't believe it is the cable.

Subsequent replacing and removing said cover resulted in the the alarm sounding.

This proves the tamper for that PIR is working and that the tamper alarm was caused by me removing the cover.

I can hear the switch setting when I replace the cover.

I have also now shorted the tamper pair and the tamper light still won't extinguish and the alarm has effectively 'locked up'.

What are my options?

Will removing the master fuse and the battery reset the system and allow me to enter my code and set/unset the alarm as normal?

Or by doing this will I reset the whole sysyem back to its factory settings and it will need completely setting up again?

[Deltaseven]

The veritas has an option in programming which will require an engineer reset on tamper. There is a good chance that has been set.

Removing the battery and power should not cause a loss of programming (assuming the NVM is OK) but I don't think it will clear a request for engineer reset. In any case, if it does, you will tamper the system again when you put the cover back on...

[Guest Brogan]

The veritas has an option in programming which will require an engineer reset on tamper.  There is a good chance that has been set.

Removing the battery and power should not cause a loss of programming (assuming the NVM is OK) but I don't think it will clear a request for engineer reset.  In any case, if it does, you will tamper the system again when you put the cover back on...

31901[/snapback]

That's all it can be.

I spoke to the installers yesterday and they want £70 just to attend and then an additional payment for 'resetting' the system.

Frankly I'd rather fork out £500 on a brand new system than give it to those robbing ********.

Surely as I've paid for the alarm system and the installation charge, I am the owner and as such, I should be given all of the necessary codes?

What exactly is an engineer reset anyway?

Is it a standard code and sequence or does it depend on the installer?

Ho hum.

Looks like I've got a duff alarm system then.

[Guest]

That's all it can be.

I spoke to the installers yesterday and they want £70 just to attend and then an additional payment for 'resetting' the system.

Frankly I'd rather fork out £500 on a brand new system than give it to those robbing ********.

Surely as I've paid for the alarm system and the installation charge, I am the owner and as such, I should be given all of the necessary codes?

What exactly is an engineer reset anyway?

Is it a standard code and sequence or does it depend on the installer?

Ho hum.

Looks like I've got a duff alarm system then.

31980[/snapback]

Engineer code depends of the installer. Engineer reset is used for alarms that need professional fault finding in order to prevent somebody to open the cover and shorting terminals. Usually end user is uncapable of detecting this kind of activity or results.

If I would have to give engineer/installer code to my customer it would mean only that we wouldn't take ANY kind of responsibility of the equipment.

Just interested that would you tune ABS system in your car by yourself? Or airbag sensors?

I agree..

[Guest Brogan]

Just interested that would you tune ABS system in your car by yourself? Or airbag sensors? 

I agree.. 

31985[/snapback]

Hmmmm, not sure you can compare a reset code on a home alarm to an ABS system in a car...

I appreciate what you're saying but in this case, ALL I require is a tamper reset code.

That's hardly worthy of £100, or do you disagree?

Anyway, I've fixed it myself.

I removed the main fuse, then the battery.

Replaced the battery, put the cover back on, replaced the fuse, entered my code and presses RESET.

Hey presto, it's all working!

Maybe I should pay myself £100 for what was 30 seconds work...