Security Lights

[Guest anguscanplay]

unfortunately not...

worked a few times then flickered lots, dimmed & flickered then refused to work again...

when I took it apart the control module with light sensor & pir smelt the usual singed way...

and whats better is that the supplier exchanged it (even with me telling the truth!!)

ah next time try harder ( leave the BIG fuse in ) lol

[TSS]

forgot to add, didn't even trip the rcd - lots of reassurance not

[arfur mo]

not if its on a plug top DIY heaven

true AE

and thats one of the daftest thing about the legislation, you can put a lamp on a 13 amp fused plug and whack it into a 30amp ring main and be fully legal, yet if wired it directly of the lighting circuit via a fused spur where it will also be protected by a 6amp RCD i can be prosecuted - absolutely crackers or what?

regs

alan

[Guest anguscanplay]

not if its on a plug top DIY heaven

true Accident and Emergancy

and thats one of the daftest thing about the legislation, you can put a lamp on a 13 amp fused plug and whack it into a 30amp ring main and be fully legal, yet if wired it directly of the lighting circuit via a fused spur where it will also be protected by a 6amp RCD i can be prosecuted - absolutely crackers or what?

regs

alan

lol thats where they`ll be if theres no " socket suitable for conection to device used outdoors " lol or however the IEE phrase it

[alterEGO]

true AE

and thats one of the daftest thing about the legislation, you can put a lamp on a 13 amp fused plug and whack it into a 30amp ring main and be fully legal, yet if wired it directly of the lighting circuit via a fused spur where it will also be protected by a 6amp RCD i can be prosecuted - absolutely crackers or what?

regs

alan

we have LBHA contractS and fit hundreds a year, all used to be on a switched spurS, not now.

LABC won't pay for part p costs of extra labour ect. so all are now on plug tops, looks real professional.

this is one of the main reasons i hate part p. A much more DIY looking job but its all above board. STUPID!

[Guest BellMan371]

we have LBHA contractS and fit hundreds a year, all used to be on a switched spurS, not now.

LABC won't pay for part p costs of extra labour ect. so all are now on plug tops, looks real professional.

this is one of the main reasons i hate part p. A much more DIY looking job but its all above board. STUPID!

this is why it hasnt stopped DIY only made it WORSE and some of the dangerous things ive seen lately you would not believe. like today went to do a kitchen on a rewire i did 2 months ago, went into garage as id disconnected the ring the kitchen so made it temporarily two radial curcits anyway went into garage where the consumer is to change the kitchene sockets from 32amps to 20 amps and what did i fing the guy had only clipped a 6 way extension lead from the socket in the garage to the other end and put a 6 gang socket on the one end and a plug top on the other, looks real professional NOT

like i say its more dangerous now than it ever used to be and all because of stupid labour government. TWOT IMHO

[amateurandy]

I'm just trying to clarify my understanding of Part P re security lights.

I want to put up an additional outside light above my back door, and there's a convenient unused double socket on the ring main just inside the door.

In "the good old days" I would probably have run a spur off this (nicely channelled in the plaster) through a DP fused switch then drilled straight through the wall to the back of the light fitting. Job done.

Presumably now I basically do the same thing, but I use standard 3-core flex on the plaster surface, and put a plug on the end then plug that into the socket.

I do have an alternative as the ring main actually feeds down from the ceiling, so I could break into that near the top of the door to spur off from a junction box at high level. But would Part P allow that?

The plug option is maybe a bit easier but not exactly elegant!

Comments please (stands well back)

[Guest anguscanplay]

I'm just trying to clarify my understanding of Part P re security lights.

I want to put up an additional outside light above my back door, and there's a convenient unused double socket on the ring main just inside the door.

In "the good old days" I would probably have run a spur off this (nicely channelled in the plaster) through a DP fused switch then drilled straight through the wall to the back of the light fitting. Job done.

Presumably now I basically do the same thing, but I use standard 3-core flex on the plaster surface, and put a plug on the end then plug that into the socket.

I do have an alternative as the ring main actually feeds down from the ceiling, so I could break into that near the top of the door to spur off from a junction box at high level. But would Part P allow that?

The plug option is maybe a bit easier but not exactly elegant!

Comments please (stands well back)

as long as the socket / connection isnt in a special location and the cable will be terminated immediatly on leaving the buiding within the enclosure of the fitting then do it the old way ( rules were clarified to allow this ) - dont forget to turn it off first lol

[amateurandy]

as long as the socket / connection isnt in a special location and the cable will be terminated immediatly on leaving the buiding within the enclosure of the fitting then do it the old way ( rules were clarified to allow this ) - dont forget to turn it off first lol

Utility room - is that a special location? Chest freezer, tumble dryer, washer and sink. Not a habitable room.

And if it is, then what?

And how immediate is immediate. Does the cable have to be not seen from outside, i.e. emerge behind the fitting (not always possible given some designs of security light fitting) or can it come out of the wall and traverse a few inches (or more?) as long as there are no joints etc. and it runs directly and only to the fitting?

Thanks.

[Guest anguscanplay]

Utility room - is that a special location? Chest freezer, tumble dryer, washer and sink. Not a habitable room.

And if it is, then what?

And how immediate is immediate. Does the cable have to be not seen from outside, i.e. emerge behind the fitting (not always possible given some designs of security light fitting) or can it come out of the wall and traverse a few inches (or more?) as long as there are no joints etc. and it runs directly and only to the fitting?

Thanks.

allways the same you with the difficult questions lol

utility ? dont quote me but would say as long as it hasnt got a sink you would be ok , but deffo no visible cable - even the rain loop makes it noncompliant ( bit of a stupid rule imo )