Will It Work?

[Qorn]

Hi

May I start in saying thank you to everyone who has posted on the forums, especially in the horror section, it really was a lol afternoon.

I am a technical sparky by trade and have delved in by installing my alarm during a renovation.

My system is as follows:

1 x Honeywell Galaxy 3-520C

3 x Keyprox Pads

8 x Honeywell DT-7550C (Dual Tec Sensors)

3 x Texecom OH4W Exodus Optical Smoke

1 x Texecom FT4W Exodus Heat Detector

1 x PANIC Button Installed in Bedroom

2 x CQR SOINT2/WH Sounders

2 x RIO's (One for Extra Zones & One for Tampers)

1 x RF RIO (For When I can Pick up a Remote)

6 x Window/Door Sensors drilled into Front/Back Door & Every Downstairs Windows & Patio Doors

SD1+ (Dialler)

System Interconnected With Every Light in House & Outside Floods (Lights Turn on, during Alarm/Fire/Panic)

I have the system installed, programmed and working with a couple of issues.

1) When Mrs sets off alarm, the system gets a High Resistance on the Bell Box tamper (Tamper programmed as Tamper Zone in RIO) - Zone shows a normal just under 1k normally. (Tamper uses the 0v Line with Tamper Zone Wire)

2) Is the system capable of communicating with the Gardtec Novagard 6 Bell Box Diagnostics Serial Link?

3) I have a small relay (9v - 16v 70mA) connected to one of the outputs but the output doesn

[gooner31]

im led to believe that when the alarm activate if you get high res or a bell tamper its a power issue meaning not enough power is getting to the bell. sounds like you have done a good install but thought you would of picked up the bell problem during testing of the system once installed. seems like you have quite a bit on the system 3 rkp 8 detectors 3 smoke detectors 2 sounders 2 rios. how many psu have you installed ????.me thinks a psu could be required as that is powering a fair bit and when in alarm that will be drawing a fair bit of power. and that isnt including when it goes into alarm you have it connected to the lights indoors and floods outside.

[Qorn]

Hi Pete

Thank you for your reply

I haven

[arfur mo]

Hi Pete

Thank you for your reply

I haven

[Guest anguscanplay]

Hi Pete

Thank you for your reply

I haven

[Guest Dave the alarm man]

the onboard psu is capable of supplying 1A and the system pulls 0.71A idle.

each Soint 2 250mA

normal SAB with strobe 450mA each,

2) Is the system capable of communicating with the Gardtec Novagard 6 Bell Box Diagnostics Serial Link?

Nay

5) How would an expert rate the system installed

The basic design is flawed

(No Cables Showing,

I thought they where all done like that?

Minor Short Piece on the Door & Windows Contacts)

Not used concealed contacts?

No twisting cables with insulation tape

never been allowed,

(Cables Chased into Walls & Run under Floorboards)

normally where expected to install with out the cleint forking out to redecorate afterwards

much would a installer have charged for all of this

you want prices? post a cad drawing

[alterEGO]

Not used concealed contacts?

On externals? don't like it.

shockers all the way on the windows

[Qorn]

Many thanks for your comments, I can see that during alarm state the system is pulling more than the psu can provide.

For Alan

If you have run the external sirens in series, the second siren is pulling down the available negative return voltage when driven; this can give the h/r report from the panel in alarm log.

The Bell Box Tamper, Strobe, & Siren unfortunately share the same common negative path back to the system and I see that as with any freebies, it is useless for my application.

For Angus

the more modern way is to base your power requirements from the battery capacity so if you have a 7 amp battery that needs to last for 12 hours ( as per EN regs ) you only have 580ma available from the system - hence the need for power packs and larger batteries.

Luckily I have a few batteries kicking about in the loft, so I doubled up 2x 7Ah Batteries giving me over 15 Hours runtime - I only need the system to scare the local scumbags away it they try their luck.

For Dave

each Soint 2 250mA

normal SAB with strobe 450mA each

Owch I see a problem there then, thanks for the tech info

Minor Short Piece on the Door & Windows Contacts)

Not used concealed contacts?

All of the contacts are recessed into the frames and wires run along inside the frames

No twisting cables with insulation tape

never been allowed,

My company office had a new alarm installed and I think they looked at chock blocks as something mystic and futuristic they also said that they didn

[antinode]

I would stick the bell tampers on some 12v 1A transistorized relays, tamper return from bell to the signal input with the NC and Common on a zone programmed as Bell Tamper (don't forget to put your resistors on the relay)

Get yourself a Galaxy Smart PSU and put all your sounders on it. It's basically a RIO with a 3A PSU on it, so you can use the RIO for your bell/sounder tampers aswell.

Lets see some piccies then we can tear it to pieces

[Qorn]

I'm watching a Smart RIO now on eBay, I will get it installed and take a few pictures of the installation for everyone to rip to bits, its allways good to have the experts comment on it, good or bad. Otherwise how is anybody ment to learn?

Now lets see how they've wired that srur...... lol

Kind Regards

Dave