Fitting Door Contacts To Replacement Upvc Door

[amateurandy]

careful there they drilled across in between seals not front to back

Good point. Thanks.

And they are back on; temporary and inelegant but secure enough

[Tony Heath]

Hi Andy,

Everest used to fit contacts on their doors. My door came fitted with contacts at the bottom of the hinged side of the door. Mind you this was 20yrs. ago so things might have changed. Have you checked with Everest to see if there is a position to fit contacts and if they can supply them. Hope you get the job sorted.

Regards,

Tony.

[amateurandy]

Hi Andy,

Everest used to fit contacts on their doors. My door came fitted with contacts at the bottom of the hinged side of the door. Mind you this was 20yrs. ago so things might have changed. Have you checked with Everest to see if there is a position to fit contacts and if they can supply them. Hope you get the job sorted.

Regards,

Tony.

Hi Tony, thanks but things have changed. You would think they would have some simple provision but they don't appear to.

Yes I've asked everyone at all stages (sales, surveyor, fitters, installation manager) and the answer is consistent - no problems using normal surface-mounted contacts but you may need a different type (i.e. patio contacts, heavy duty or whatever they're called) as the bevelled frame edges prevent adjacent/aligned fitting of reed switch and magnet. Fixing with short screws is fine, won't invalidate any warranty they say.

I'm just trying to do a neat and effective job that "the boss" won't object to.

PS Yes Angus, the blu-tack is still holding while I decide......

[magpye]

And what's the best location around the door, e.g. top, bottom, side, how far from hinge, etc.

Just remember, when fitted, it should not be possible to open the door more than 100mm without generating an alarm condition.

So, unless you really know what you are doing, do not fit from/between door center and hinge.

[Guest anguscanplay]

Hi Tony, thanks but things have changed. You would think they would have some simple provision but they don't appear to.

Yes I've asked everyone at all stages (sales, surveyor, fitters, installation manager) and the answer is consistent - no problems using normal surface-mounted contacts but you may need a different type (i.e. patio contacts, heavy duty or whatever they're called) as the bevelled frame edges prevent adjacent/aligned fitting of reed switch and magnet. Fixing with short screws is fine, won't invalidate any warranty they say.

I'm just trying to do a neat and effective job that "the boss" won't object to.

PS Yes Angus, the blu-tack is still holding while I decide......

i knew it was blu-tack

youve got a good 20mm of play with the surface contacts ( but they are critical for lining up end to end ) do what i do - put it on chime and play at been a door but never on the hinge side - they dont trigger with 100mm of opening

bit of white sealent round the contact and magnet afterwards helps them to blend in

Angus ( you want to hire a drill? )

[amateurandy]

i knew it was blu-tack

youve got a good 20mm of play with the surface contacts ( but they are critical for lining up end to end ) do what i do - put it on chime and play at been a door but never on the hinge side - they dont trigger with 100mm of opening

Been there, done all that already, thanks though

In this case the hinge side is actually workable believe it or not, as it's outward opening and the inner surface is some way from the hinge pivot point. Triggers at less than 75mm open at the handle side.

[Guest anguscanplay]

Been there, done all that already, thanks though

In this case the hinge side is actually workable believe it or not, as it's outward opening and the inner surface is some way from the hinge pivot point. Triggers at less than 75mm open at the handle side.

oh yeah sorry forgot it was now outwards opening - means the recessed one is deffo out imo ( wood is worse but it`ll corrode far too quickly )

[arfur mo]

tbh with anything we do as good conscientious engineers we will hide cables for a neat finish, the term i use is it has to look like it grew there naturally, but then the effort is tempered in line with the overall location.

for instance a tatty warehouse or garage i'd go for physical protection over aesthetics, a mansion or house front door aesthetics over protection.

this is a back door effectively, so if the contact will stand out offensively, then take the trouble to hide it, if not attach magnet to the lip of the door, and the reed to th frame. as far as the alarm is concerned it will not matter a jot.

the white surface contacts have a fair tolerance, but it's always best to get the components as close together without colliding as possible, and also lined up as close as possible.

the block contacts in the photo are simply an alternative to the white oblong ones, so horses for courses if you like. do't cost much so buy some and try, to see which suits you best.

as for position ideally the contact is in/on the door header to the opening side, this to reduce water ingress from damp, but those aesthetics mean many times the contact is on/in the frame at the foot making it more vulnerable to damage from vacuum cleanersas wel as damp.

regs

alan

[Guest anguscanplay]

a mansion or house front door aesthetics over protection.

regs

alan

allowing for the regulations " protection against mechanical damage " of course ? ?

[arfur mo]

allowing for the regulations " protection against mechanical damage " of course ? ?

so we go for a 20mm galve tube to protect the cable going to pollished oak front door - i like it lol!

regs

alan