Fitting Door Contacts To Replacement Upvc Door

[arfur mo]

Been there, done all that already, thanks though

In this case the hinge side is actually workable believe it or not, as it's outward opening and the inner surface is some way from the hinge pivot point. Triggers at less than 75mm open at the handle side.

not wanting any bun fight here, but i was taught you never fit the contact to the hinge side (well after the demise of the ]'G' contact and the pye micro concealled contact anyway, as a villain could simply cut out the rest of door witout tripping the alarm, well is what i was told anyway, and would never be up to any standards surely imo.

regs

alan

[amateurandy]

i was taught you never fit the contact to the hinge side

To be fair I didn't say I was going to, just that having tested it (in many positions), it actually worked!

Anyway, as you suggested I'm going to get some of those little block contacts and try a few things out.

The whole doorway is well-covered by a PIR as mentioned earlier so it's not critical. TBH the main reason it's there is that we have it on chime permanently to know if anyone opens the back door.

[arfur mo]

To be fair I didn't say I was going to, just that having tested it (in many positions), it actually worked!

Anyway, as you suggested I'm going to get some of those little block contacts and try a few things out.

The whole doorway is well-covered by a PIR as mentioned earlier so it's not critical. TBH the main reason it's there is that we have it on chime permanently to know if anyone opens the back door.

see i got to woried, is that because i'm your inspectorate until you go NSI/SSAIB? lo!

but don't woryy andy, i'm not really being your inspectorate

just thought it would be a good moment to exspalin, as we do lots of stuff to standards but how many know why we do what we do the way we do it? so a sort of info MO'ment.

like if it's a double door, even with interlocking rebate, you still have to contact both sides, so the client don't leave the trailing leaf open, and still be able to set the alarm.

regs

alan

[amateurandy]

but don't woryy andy, i'm not really being your inspectorate

Alan, I'm only worried about your spelling, grammar, use of capital letters and punctuation.

[arfur mo]

Alan, I'm only worried about your spelling, grammar, use of capital letters and punctuation.

so wats the smatter wiv my smeellling

lol

regs

alan

[amateurandy]

Thanks everyone for their advice.

All the bits arrived this morning from Maplins (don't scoff!) and I've been testing what works.

The "final solution", which I've yet to fix permanently, is a miniature "block" switch on the frame above the door; inside (obviously) and above the handle adjacent to the corner. For a magnet I'm using one from a heavy duty unit fixed directly to the top of the door; it's just the right size for the inner channel. It triggers nicely with about 30mm opening movement of the door.

[amateurandy]

Here you go, I managed to get a good close-up picture:

(I'll try to get another once I've painted and siliconed over the bits that need it. Should look a whole lot better )

[F C E]

alterEGO & Dave the alarm man your childish comments have been removed , if you wish to be warned carry on

Remember this is in public

[amateurandy]

Here you go, I managed to get a good close-up picture:

(I'll try to get another once I've painted and siliconed over the bits that need it. Should look a whole lot better )

Now, that's better; amazing what a bit of paint and silicone can do.....

Note that what may appear to be cables inside the door frame is actually just the frame corner weld.

The magnet housing is just visible sticking up above the top right of the door.

The "boss" seems reasonably happy with it, which was the objective. And it works of course!

[breff]

We usually fit a normal surface contact on the bevelled edge so its as close to the door as possible.