Fitting Door Contacts To Replacement Upvc Door

[alterEGO]

We usually fit a normal surface contact on the bevelled edge so its as close to the door as possible.

yep, then close the door and fit magnet on door inline.

would have been done in 5 mins lol.

[amateurandy]

We usually fit a normal surface contact on the bevelled edge so its as close to the door as possible.

I looked at doing that but firstly the contacts I have are slightly too wide to fit neatly on this bevel (it's about 12mm), secondly they then intrude slightly into the door opening (increasing the risk of damage) and finally it looks rather odd.

And remember it's a DIY job with "the boss" looking over my shoulder....

[alterEGO]

I looked at doing that but firstly the contacts I have are slightly too wide to fit neatly on this bevel (it's about 12mm), secondly they then intrude slightly into the door opening (increasing the risk of damage) and finally it looks rather odd.

And remember it's a DIY job with "the boss" looking over my shoulder....

IMO....................

lots of houses look odd then, because thats how most of us do it.

if done well it will not intrude over the door jam.

and the over hang on the inside, thats what white silicone is for.

Not having ago mate, your system is not done to regs so you can do what you like, just telling you how the pros do it.

we tell the boss to wind her neck in.......................................................................... then run

FAST

[amateurandy]

.......................................................................... then run

FAST

Don't have that option

[arfur mo]

Now, that's better; amazing what a bit of paint and silicone can do.....

Note that what may appear to be cables inside the door frame is actually just the frame corner weld.

The magnet housing is just visible sticking up above the top right of the door.

The "boss" seems reasonably happy with it, which was the objective. And it works of course!

hi andy,

the observation (an no not criticism) i'd make is, your now asking this contact to operate through the plastic reducing the magnets overall effectiveness, and i fear in a shortish time the magnet will also loose some of it's power (new magnets tend to do this), and so not operate so easily in time, so this will subsequently cause intermittent setting faults.

i might be wrong but just remember - you heard it here 1st.

but hey this is just one contact, now discussed to exaustion over several days now, so i just bet your very happy your not installing a full system, 'cause that would take 18 months+ at this rate for the panel let alone the sirens .

personally i'd have drilled behind the frame and then through it fishing out the cable with a loop (made of thin piano wire), mounting the long contact directly over the cable access to conceal it - yes, in most cases there is enough room for the door to pass (never met one that did'nt yet , finally placing the magnet in the door channel using blue tack and chime to test for best position before securing (as suggested earlier).

what you have done is not bad, just not personally keen on the "sleeping policeman" cable bump on the frame diagonal cover roughly with silicone.

when you 'bead' silicone or or decorators filler, simply dip you finger in some water before you finally smooth off the filler, gets a far smoother finish.

regs

Alan

[magpye]

45 (now 46) posts to get a contact fitted, phew.

Time all this came to an end isn't it?

[Guest anguscanplay]

hi andy,

the observation (an no not criticism) i'd make is, your now asking this contact to operate through the plastic reducing the magnets overall effectiveness, and i fear in a shortish time the magnet will also loose some of it's power (new magnets tend to do this), and so not operate so easily in time, so this will subsequently cause intermittent setting faults.

i might be wrong but just remember - you heard it here 1st.

but hey this is just one contact, now discussed to exaustion over several days now, so i just bet your very happy your not installing a full system, 'cause that would take 18 months+ at this rate for the panel let alone the sirens .

personally i'd have drilled behind the frame and then through it fishing out the cable with a loop (made of thin piano wire), mounting the long contact directly over the cable access to conceal it - yes, in most cases there is enough room for the door to pass (never met one that did'nt yet , finally placing the magnet in the door channel using blue tack and chime to test for best position before securing (as suggested earlier).

what you have done is not bad, just not personally keen on the "sleeping policeman" cable bump on the frame diagonal cover roughly with silicone.

when you 'bead' silicone or or decorators filler, simply dip you finger in some water before you finally smooth off the filler, gets a far smoother finish.

regs

Alan

eh what ..........youd have to be there when the door was been fitted and ask the guys nicely whilst you drill from the outside top edge do it like we all do ...... in and out screw it to the frame and door bevel looping the cable from wherever the door fitters left it and off , 20 mins including drinking the cup of tea yours for

[arfur mo]

eh what ..........youd have to be there when the door was been fitted and ask the guys nicely whilst you drill from the outside top edge do it like we all do ...... in and out screw it to the frame and door bevel looping the cable from wherever the door fitters left it and off , 20 mins including drinking the cup of tea yours for

[Guest anguscanplay]

nop!

most of my systems are domestics so i get to do plenty of plastic D/G doors, usually as retrofits, agreed nice to be there as the door fitted (but when any clients ever think that far ahead to tell you?) but not a big issue if not (usually).

depends obviously on the frame and doorway construction, deep reveals are more of a pia, but when i drill through from the contact i aim carefully at an angle to emerge near the edge of the frame but not through the bezel, and rather than risk a burst out in the plaster, i stop short then drill to meet the first hole, bit complex to explain and i'm a rubbish at drawing, but very simple to do - trust me .

well it is for us 'old school' guys still using a bit and brace it is - cordless drills pah! there for sissy's ).

regs

alan

dont need pictures as i have an active imagination you need to be drilling downwards to hid a cable - look at andys door and explain how you drill from above into the frame to meet the hole you drilled from behind the contact ? only way youll do it is if you can see the outside top of the door and it dont happen unless the doors laid down on its side

Angus ( ive been doing em years too remember)

[Guest Dave the alarm man]

will return with a piccy........