Guest anguscanplay Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 er more to it obviously - where do you live greebo ?
Greebo Posted August 9, 2007 Author Posted August 9, 2007 er more to it obviously - where do you live greebo ? dublin, ireland
Beginner Posted August 9, 2007 Posted August 9, 2007 ...which would explain the use of the word 'hotpress'; 'airing cupboard' in the UK!
arfur mo Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 Hi Greebo hotpress = the press where the hot water cylinder lives...dont you guys have them?no, we have sauna's lol! for a minute i thought you were churning out fake If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
Greebo Posted August 10, 2007 Author Posted August 10, 2007 Hi Greeboregarding tampers an engineer calling themselves a pro would trouble to connect tampers connections right up to the contact, but then some engineers are a tad on the lazy side, this may also have been a DIY install originally and so the 'engineer' did not see the reason to do this. depends on the risk, but in a smaller private house of lower risk then tbh not having tampers is hardly going to rock the world of security in horror. ideally devices are 'anti-tampered' as this helps prevent say a a painter disconnecting your devices to paint behind and then not putting them back, cables damaged during the day by carpet fitters are flagged early so you don't find out about it as you go to bed, and you have more chance of laying the blame the culprit. so it's up to you, i'd recommend get a decent and competant engineer in to give your system a health check (and no, not one from PC World "i work in IT" guys ) regs alan thanks a lot for the reply Alan! I will get a pic up asap but I think I have the ones you are talking about. There is a magnetic contact on the opening part of the door, the frame has the corresponding contact with a vibration sensor built in (its like a small plastic cylinder with two smaller metallic cylinders inside) The now inoperable sensor used to work and I saw it work on the walk test. The alarm still sees this zone but just plain ignores it... The alarm is ~1.5 years old and was installed by a "certified" professional (certified for what Im starting to wonder) would I need to get them back to unlock it for another engineer to look at? Im pretty sure the board is locked. I had the engineer code (he asked me to enter it in during the install but it was thrown out in a cleanup! Would I need to get it unlocked by the original installer before anyone else could look at it? or only if the board is locked?
Guest Dave the alarm man Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 alarm guys havent managed to come out yet (or answer my calls) have they chucked it? i understand you need to hold a licance to work with alarms your fella got one?
arfur mo Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 thanks a lot for the reply Alan!I will get a pic up asap but I think I have the ones you are talking about. There is a magnetic contact on the opening part of the door, the frame has the corresponding contact with a vibration sensor built in (its like a small plastic cylinder with two smaller metallic cylinders inside) The now inoperable sensor used to work and I saw it work on the walk test. The alarm still sees this zone but just plain ignores it... The alarm is ~1.5 years old and was installed by a "certified" professional (certified for what Im starting to wonder) would I need to get them back to unlock it for another engineer to look at? Im pretty sure the board is locked. I had the engineer code (he asked me to enter it in during the install but it was thrown out in a cleanup! Would I need to get it unlocked by the original installer before anyone else could look at it? or only if the board is locked? hi greebo, crikey, i thought that sensor design was consigned to history but then i think i see some of them in the old Tandy stores and possibly Maplins/B&Q. brings back bad old day memories, with inertia sensors and Annalisers i can feel a ramble through history coming on - so i will desist . Certified? you need to check to what risk level your system was installed to, there are several and if grade 1 (the lowest) then tampers are not mandatory. if your installer is registered his paperwork should carry the relvant logo i.e. of the NSI or SSAIB, along with his risk assesment, and you should advise them of your concerns and ask them -: A) to ratify his registration is valid B) to check the assessed risk rating C) if all is not in order ask for the situation to be put right under terms of that registration, if your system is certified then you have paid for a certificate, so don't be shy thats one of the reasons why the scheme is there. as for the engineers code it may be 'burned in' i.e. locked by the installer, if not an engineer can reprogram it. so personally i advise you to get a decent engineer in to look at your system, to raise a report on its condition and functionality as evidence for any claim to put oit right or recompense. i honestly hope this is not an unfortunate encounter with a 'pro' installer, but i fear the worst based on info so far. regs Alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
jnealon Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 Just a standard HKC shock with a built in reed. If you have a meter test which part of it is faulty ie the reed or the shock. Depending on the meter you should get a reading of around .6 ohms for the reed and the same for the shock, open and close the reed and tap the shock and the reading should go back to .6 ohms or just replace it, they're not expensive www.realsecurity.ie
Guest anguscanplay Posted August 10, 2007 Posted August 10, 2007 that shock sensor - check the arrow is pointing straight up - if it isnt youll get alarms with every vibration !
Greebo Posted August 10, 2007 Author Posted August 10, 2007 that shock sensor - check the arrow is pointing straight up - if it isnt youll get alarms with every vibration ! oops posted the same image twice! will check the sensor next time I have it off though Im pretty sure it needs a few whacks to go off Is there anything I can do to test the other sensor without a multimeter?
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