arfur mo Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 - if their set right they false alarm - simple as can't agree Angus, the word 'if' is the key. the system until recently worked fine as far as we know, accepting might not have worked at all. this system is 14 years old, so maybe some joints are a bit naff, maybe the aux volts is off or windows have become loose in frames (faulty putty) causing glass or transport to rattle in wind. so loads of reasons why false alarms not directly down to device faults, so just needs an alert competent engineer to asses and sort it. the real trouble is - i live in Essex only kidding lol! regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
arfur mo Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 The sensors are shockgards and six wires are used, dont know the colour of the spares.. Cant check at the moment as I am in work. excuses, excuses are you a vicker? (appologies to your 'boss' if you are ) regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
barooga Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 excuses, excuses are you a vicker?(appologies to your 'boss' if you are ) regs alan Vicker?? Nope, struggling with that one Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional
oakenholt Posted September 2, 2007 Author Posted September 2, 2007 What I am trying to explain is that it is not vibration that is causing the faults. The alarm goes off as soon as I set it, when I check the zone in alarm the sensor is not flashing to show a fault. If I swap that sensor for one from a different zone the next time I set the alarm it faults staight away with a different zone from those that I have just swapped . Also if I do a system test it checks each zone and they all come up as in fault. Hope that makes it a bit clearer. Mark.
alterEGO Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 Vicker??Nope, struggling with that one its sunday and hes at work?
alterEGO Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 What I am trying to explain is that it is not vibration that is causing the faults. The alarm goes off as soon as I set it, when I check the zone in alarm the sensor is not flashing to show a fault. If I swap that sensor for one from a different zone the next time I set the alarm it faults staight away with a different zone from those that I have just swapped . Also if I do a system test it checks each zone and they all come up as in fault. Hope that makes it a bit clearer. Mark. i will give ytou what should be IMO the final bit of advice. 1. GET I DECENT ENGINEER, RING GARDTEC TO SEE WHO COVERS YOUR AREA. [0161 653 3564 ASK FOR GEORGE AND SAY Aaron TOLD YOU TO RING AND ASK FOR THE DETAILS OF AN ENGINEER IN YOU AREA.]I THINK DYNO-SECURE COVER YOUR AREA[bRITISH GAS ALARMS] BUT THAT MIGHT NOT BE YOUR BEST BET IF HE GIVES YOU THEIR NUMBER 2. THERE IS A FAULT WITH EITHER AUX OR THE PANEL, HE MAY HAVE CHANGED THE PROGRAMMING FOR THE WIRING TYPE OR SOMTHING LIKE THAT, EITHER WAY I WOULD DITCH THE SO CALLED ENGINEER.
Guest anguscanplay Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 What I am trying to explain is that it is not vibration that is causing the faults. The alarm goes off as soon as I set it, when I check the zone in alarm the sensor is not flashing to show a fault. If I swap that sensor for one from a different zone the next time I set the alarm it faults staight away with a different zone from those that I have just swapped . Also if I do a system test it checks each zone and they all come up as in fault. Hope that makes it a bit clearer. Mark. so he has them connected through the switch latch - it will do this , thats how it works. there is almost certainly nothing wrong with your control panel ! your way out of your depth on this one , you will need an engineer ( but not the one you had last time ) but dont be suprized when he says " its all working correctly " " its how these impacts are "
alterEGO Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 so he has them connected through the switch latch - it will do this , thats how it works. there is almost certainly nothing wrong with your control panel ! your way out of your depth on this one , you will need an engineer ( but not the one you had last time ) but dont be suprized when he says " its all working correctly " " its how these impacts are " if connected via the onboard switched latch it should only show open for a second, also the shockgard range don't need it they should have been wired via latch terminal not droping the 12v. but as said if they are that should only last a second. just ring george tomorrow.
oakenholt Posted September 2, 2007 Author Posted September 2, 2007 I know I'm out of my depth, thats why I'm on this forum. About AE's comment on programming, when the batteries were changed the previous engineer wired in my garage doors which are fitted with aluminium contacts, I dont know how he programmed them.
alterEGO Posted September 2, 2007 Posted September 2, 2007 i will give ytou what should be IMO the final bit of advice.1. GET I DECENT ENGINEER, RING GARDTEC TO SEE WHO COVERS YOUR AREA. [0161 653 3564 ASK FOR GEORGE AND SAY Aaron TOLD YOU TO RING AND ASK FOR THE DETAILS OF AN ENGINEER IN YOU AREA.]I THINK DYNO-SECURE COVER YOUR AREA[bRITISH GAS ALARMS] BUT THAT MIGHT NOT BE YOUR BEST BET IF HE GIVES YOU THEIR NUMBER 2. THERE IS A FAULT WITH EITHER AUX OR THE PANEL, HE MAY HAVE CHANGED THE PROGRAMMING FOR THE WIRING TYPE OR SOMTHING LIKE THAT, EITHER WAY I WOULD DITCH THE SO CALLED ENGINEER.
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