Fitting Mains Suppressor To Securit 800l

[jonajona]

Hi

I have a problem with my alarm. It has started to be triggered the instant my central heating comes on. Pretty sure this is some mains spike/induced voltage.

Another member of the boards kindly suggested fitting a suppressor. My understanding of these is that they connect across the DC side of the PSU and have a link to earth.

When I looked at my panel (C&K Securit 800L) I discovered that the PSU feeds (12v) AC to the PCB and that the PCB has the rectifier on it so without major surgery to the board I can't fit a suppressor.

Does anyone have any ideas what I can do?

Thanks for any help

Jonathan

[magpye]

Hi

I have a problem with my alarm. It has started to be triggered the instant my central heating comes on. Pretty sure this is some mains spike/induced voltage.

Another member of the boards kindly suggested fitting a suppressor. My understanding of these is that they connect across the DC side of the PSU and have a link to earth.

When I looked at my panel (C&K Securit 800L) I discovered that the PSU feeds (12v) AC to the PCB and that the PCB has the rectifier on it so without major surgery to the board I can't fit a suppressor.

Does anyone have any ideas what I can do?

Thanks for any help

Jonathan

Spike suppressors that eliminate induced AC voltage and prevents false alarms

Next to user error, the biggest cause of false alarms is EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), commonly known as induced AC. When intruder or fire alarm cables come near mains or telephone wires, high induced AC voltage passes onto the DC supply to detectors and control equipment. This induced AC voltage causes random and intermittent false alarms as well as system malfunctions. Very often, mains and other high voltage cables are run next to alarm circuits after the system has been installed. When false alarms occur caused by AC interference, the installer is responsible for getting rid of the problem. Eliminating induced AC is simple by fitting a

[jonajona]

Thanks for the response....however what you describe sits on the DC side of the PSU. As I said in my post...the PSU on my panel feeds the PCB with AC (at 12v) this is then rectified on the PCB itself.

This means I cannot fit this type of suppressor without hackign the PCB about...something I don't want to do.

Thanks

Jonathan

Spike suppressors that eliminate induced AC voltage and prevents false alarms

Next to user error, the biggest cause of false alarms is EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), commonly known as induced AC. When intruder or fire alarm cables come near mains or telephone wires, high induced AC voltage passes onto the DC supply to detectors and control equipment. This induced AC voltage causes random and intermittent false alarms as well as system malfunctions. Very often, mains and other high voltage cables are run next to alarm circuits after the system has been installed. When false alarms occur caused by AC interference, the installer is responsible for getting rid of the problem. Eliminating induced AC is simple by fitting a

[Tel]

This means I cannot fit this type of suppressor without hackign the PCB about...something I don't want to do.

its wired........

[breff]

Do as Magpye says, wire red to DC+, black to DC- and green to earth. It removes AC from the DC line. It is not the panel producing the AC it is being induced onto the DC cables.

[magpye]

Spike suppressors that eliminate induced AC voltage and prevents false alarms

Next to user error, the biggest cause of false alarms is EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), commonly known as induced AC. When intruder or fire alarm cables come near mains or telephone wires, high induced AC voltage passes onto the DC supply to detectors and control equipment. This induced AC voltage causes random and intermittent false alarms as well as system malfunctions. Very often, mains and other high voltage cables are run next to alarm circuits after the system has been installed. When false alarms occur caused by AC interference, the installer is responsible for getting rid of the problem. Eliminating induced AC is simple by fitting a

[arfur mo]

Thanks for the response....however what you describe sits on the DC side of the PSU. As I said in my post...the PSU on my panel feeds the PCB with AC (at 12v) this is then rectified on the PCB itself.

This means I cannot fit this type of suppressor without hackign the PCB about...something I don't want to do.

Thanks

Jonathan

you are confusing a PSU with the transformer (which is part of the PSU), 240v AC mains go's into the transformer and is dropped to about 18-20 vac, then the pcb rectifies and stabalises the resultant voltage to ideally 13.65 dc. as the panel pcb is all on a common voltage rail, attaching a spike suppressor will act over the supply voltage rails entirety, so connecting to the aux output is just a convenient way of doing it.

personally i would have an electrician move the alarms mains supply to a 'clean' supply, preferably to it's own fuse on the fuse board. if i ever suspected RFi i so would prefer to fit suppression to the incoming mains supply close to the transformer (you must engage a competent person to do this for your own safety due to risk of shock at lethal potentials).

having said all that above, and with full respects to magpye, in 27 years as a sole trader (where the buck stops with me for faults) and 40 years in this trade, i have never ever had to fit an RFi suppressor to any alarm system, so i deduce often where RFi is blamed, more often it is poor installation procedures or bad maintenance (like not changing batteries) are the real cause.

any system that is affected by RFi would also be highly prone to false alarms from electrical storms, so better fit a lightning conductor while you at it .

so replace the battery, especially if over 3 years old, as i'd assume this problem started recently, but the alarm has been in and worked for some time. a good battery helps to squelch any sudden power surges.

regarding false alarms.

(i'm sorry again magpie but this is a 'pet' subject of mine)

easily the most common cause of false alarms is the humble 'simple' door contact, way and above any motion sensor false alarms due to open windows or animals left in the area. a door can be left ajar and the alarm happily sets due to the contacts tolerances, thus fooling the user into believing the premises is secured when it is not. an a alarm actually setting just means the magnet's have operated the reeds, not the doors are held shut.

after setting, a draft opens the door causing the alarm to action, on returning and opening the front door the air current often shuts that in-secured door, so when checked by the key-holder all seems ok and they scream the alarm is faulty - but bad operation and lack of proper user training was the real fault.

so i teach all my clients they must push then pull every alarmed door before setting, obviously this would apply more to internal doors but don't forget the back door now will you folks

regs

alan

[magpye]

(i'm sorry again magpie but this is a 'pet' subject of mine)

easily the most common cause of false alarms is the humble 'simple' door contact, way and above any motion sensor false alarms due to open windows or animals left in the area. a door can be left ajar and the alarm happily sets due to the contacts tolerances, thus fooling the user into believing the premises is secured when it is not. an a alarm actually setting just means the magnet's have operated the reeds, not the doors are held shut.

after setting, a draft opens the door causing the alarm to action, on returning and opening the front door the air current often shuts that in-secured door, so when checked by the key-holder all seems ok and they scream the alarm is faulty - but bad operation and lack of proper user training was the real fault.

so i teach all my clients they must push then pull every alarmed door before setting, obviously this would apply more to internal doors but don't forget the back door now will you folks

regs

alan

I don't really know what the above has to do with the original question in this thread.

I was only answering that, a straight forward question - I even went back and had a look at the original question in another thread - this time just explaining a little better what was required from the advise already given

duh!

If f/a advice had been requested I'm sure I would have given that

[arfur mo]

what would this place be if we did not have a little tug at each other from time to time

by a really odd coincidence, i've just been talking to the owner of the company that takes on my systems for monitoring, they have had a similar niggling problem on one of their jobs, but this one is when the keyholder switches on a light at the rear of the building it tampers the alarm.

they have fitted all kinds of filters to the alarm system to no avail, i suggested to replace the light switch for possible excessive arcing and wear, and fitting a filter to the lighting circuit it controls (not sure if it's fluorescents but as you know they can spark up a bit).

might be the way to go for the o/p, get a suppressor installed to the heating controls as perhaps they gone a bit arcy

regs

alan

[Guest anguscanplay]

RFI ? it`s a myth