cjromeo Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 Hi guys, first post. I'm an electrical contractor and do very few alarms (only when existing customers insist, I always try and get them to go to the local SSAIB approved guy - its a 2 way street!) So anyway I had the Accord up and running for a week just with the internal sounder (its a new build) and yesterday popped up the Texecom sounder. It didnt behave as described in the manual when I installed it, it goes from LED flashing on the left with the tamper open to the right LED flashing with the tamper closed. Also I now have a tamper up on the panel. When I tried triggering it, it sounded and I couldnt stop it, had to disconnect the sounders battery for a couple of seconds. I dont want any racket early or late so will be having a bash later, I am fairly sure its wired right (neither panel nor sounder list one anothers connections) With Bell + - and the strobe connections being straight forward just leaving the neg / tamper - I will obviously double check this. Any tips? and should I expect continuity at the panel through the negative and taper lines from the sounder. Or do I ask the security installer to take a look and end up owing him a CCTV power install
alterEGO Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 Hi guys, first post.I'm an electrical contractor and do very few alarms (only when existing customers insist, I always try and get them to go to the local SSAIB approved guy - its a 2 way street!) So anyway I had the Accord up and running for a week just with the internal sounder (its a new build) and yesterday popped up the Texecom sounder. It didnt behave as described in the manual when I installed it, it goes from LED flashing on the left with the tamper open to the right LED flashing with the tamper closed. Also I now have a tamper up on the panel. When I tried triggering it, it sounded and I couldnt stop it, had to disconnect the sounders battery for a couple of seconds. I dont want any racket early or late so will be having a bash later, I am fairly sure its wired right (neither panel nor sounder list one anothers connections) With Bell + - and the strobe connections being straight forward just leaving the neg / tamper - I will obviously double check this. Any tips? and should I expect continuity at the panel through the negative and taper lines from the sounder. Or do I ask the security installer to take a look and end up owing him a CCTV power install i can't remember the accord terminals, list down both panel and bell terminals and we can match them up for you.
cjromeo Posted December 8, 2007 Author Posted December 8, 2007 i can't remember the accord terminals, list down both panel and bell terminals and we can match them up for you. Thanks Chief - I left the manual on site, I'll post them up later!
alterEGO Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 Thanks Chief - I left the manual on site, I'll post them up later! accord = bell box BELL+ = +12v BELL TAMP - = tamper out BELL - = -ve bell bell TAMP - R = 0v STRB = strobe -ve i think those terms used on the bell are the same as texecom, but you get the idea
Guest anguscanplay Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 check your cable for shorts / open curcuit - blown fuse?
cjromeo Posted December 8, 2007 Author Posted December 8, 2007 check your cable for shorts / open curcuit - blown fuse? I did a continuity and insulation test on the cable before I started, I'll check the fuses too. Thanks for your continued help
topalarms Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 Dont know the sounder but back tamper not depressed?
cjromeo Posted December 8, 2007 Author Posted December 8, 2007 Dont know the sounder but back tamper not depressed? No, it doesnt have one, the cover tamper is screwed seperately to the wall so if you lever the bell off the wall it breaks away and goes off that way. So the lid tamper does both functions as the base is designed to break and leave the tamper switch on the wall The flashing right LED apparently means the tamper is closed and its a big microswitch, I can hear it click as I put the screw in.
Guest anguscanplay Posted December 8, 2007 Posted December 8, 2007 I did a continuity and insulation test on the cable before I started, I'll check the fuses too.Thanks for your continued help a short between the positive and trigger could be the problem - its fine till you activate the sounder then it blows the fuse
cjromeo Posted December 8, 2007 Author Posted December 8, 2007 Thanks guys, twas a schoolboy error, I had crossed the 0V and tamper return, the description of operation between the panel and sounder used very different terms, so I had mixed them up, reading them a few times I realised the issue. Took a while for the tamper return to come up though, I think thats due to the 'engineer' hold off mode of the Texecom. Anyway, all working, thanks for your input. And if you have a slow Right Hand Blinking LED on an odyssey - your tamper lines are crossed!
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.