Replacing Pir - 8 Core/6 Core

[bigvern]

Hi,

I have a broken PIR on a 10 Yr old Gardtec 800 system. On removing the old PIR cover it uses 8 core cable(7 are connected - brown wire is not). The new Texecom Reflex PIR I have has 6 terminals can this be fitted to an 8 core cable, if so how? Or do i need an 8 terminal PIR?

[arfur mo]

Hi,

I have a broken PIR on a 10 Yr old Gardtec 800 system. On removing the old PIR cover it uses 8 core cable(7 are connected - brown wire is not). The new Texecom Reflex PIR I have has 6 terminals can this be fitted to an 8 core cable, if so how? Or do i need an 8 terminal PIR?

hu bigvern,

i'guess the 7th wire is controlling the LEDS, usually the panel sends a voltage when in test or set condition to enable the LED. the idea being nobody can check the range of the detector in order to break in.

being 10 years old i'd also assume conventional type wiring instead of EOL (end of line resistors) was used, so you should be able to swap out your detector using the same colours.

before you remove the old detector snip off the wires one at a time leaving a short bit of the coloured sleeving behind, then if you get stuck you wil at least know what wire's originally went to from where .

if the system has not been service in a while, then be prudent and have it done. the engineer most likely will do this what is for him a simple job, for you at little extra cost.

regs

alan

[alterEGO]

I'm guessing you have two cores used for tamper, two for alarm, one for 12v (+) and one for 0v (-). the last, number seven, i'm guessing is orange? connected to LED as arf said, if so just trim it a little and put a little tape on the end. [i have seen some engineers terminate it with the 12v(+) but then all the other LEDS will come on, i would just leave it out.

or.

it could be used as latch, some pirs used to be put on the same zone number [bad idea] and the one triggered would then have the LED on solid untill a reset has taken place.

Which ever it is just leave that core out.

[bigvern]

hu bigvern,

i'guess the 7th wire is controlling the LEDS, usually the panel sends a voltage when in test or set condition to enable the LED. the idea being nobody can check the range of the detector in order to break in.

being 10 years old i'd also assume conventional type wiring instead of EOL (end of line resistors) was used, so you should be able to swap out your detector using the same colours.

before you remove the old detector snip off the wires one at a time leaving a short bit of the coloured sleeving behind, then if you get stuck you wil at least know what wire's originally went to from where .

if the system has not been service in a while, then be prudent and have it done. the engineer most likely will do this what is for him a simple job, for you at little extra cost.

regs

alan

Hi Alan

Thanks for the quick reply and info. I'll give it a go.

Bigvern

[Biker C]

arfur,

It sounds more likely that the 7th cable is to be for the latch facility, if more than one sensor is on the same zone the LED will latch on.

[arfur mo]

arfur,

It sounds more likely that the 7th cable is to be for the latch facility, if more than one sensor is on the same zone the LED will latch on.

it might well be, but imo very rarely used,

i know it was a very popular method further up north (well of Watford ) a few years back to have say 10 vibro's or pir's on one zone, but with the event of panels that isolated alarmed zones after the bell time, multizones and confirmed signals i'd deduce most likely it controls the LED by turning it off when unset.

i could of course be wrong - perish the thought

regs

alan