Guest anguscanplay Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 Yeah I have seen magnets stuck in on their own but flushing them into a bit of wood means you can cut the magnet down to about 5mm thick and be sure it stays there. What's the problem making it G2? tampering it
luggsey Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 tampering it Huh? G3 yes, G2 need tampered contacts now as well? I didn't realise that! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Life is like a box of chocolates, some bugger always gets the nice ones! My Amateur Radio Forum
Guest anguscanplay Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 Huh? G3 yes, G2 need tampered contacts now as well? I didn't realise that! G3 needs "interferance detection" and "off frame" tamper as well as terminal access tamper but G2 just needs the latter - best we`ve seen is a quick fit with a screw down cover for the terminals, only problem is the resistor values ( why did I think of Arf LOL) are wrong for our panels
luggsey Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 G3 needs "interferance detection" and "off frame" tamper as well as terminal access tamper but G2 just needs the latter - best we`ve seen is a quick fit with a screw down cover for the terminals, only problem is the resistor values ( why did I think of Arf LOL) are wrong for our panels I see what you mean, G2 still needs standard tamper as always, I know G3 door contacts are causing a problem on jobs due to a large j-box on some. Lurvley in your new house! I'm sure Menvier panels have switchable resistor values to get over this problem as well.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Life is like a box of chocolates, some bugger always gets the nice ones! My Amateur Radio Forum
arfur mo Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 hard to make that G2 with some panels too, but dont bother with the cutting of wood (turn the magnet over) i'd with you on that, because the casing pins which hold the body to the front plate tend to get dislodged if the door is slammed sevral times. so far better and quicker imo to mount the magnet the right way up i.e. as designed (shame on you for suggesting anything outside of the makers design criteria ) and fill the channel either side with a hot melt glue gun to secure it. very quick to set, holds secure and if you do happen miss-align it, then it's a simple matter to soften the glue and adjust properly, and a bonus is you won't interfere with any of the doors cold seal envelopes (that what everest often clap on about ) regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
Guest anguscanplay Posted January 9, 2008 Posted January 9, 2008 i'd with you on that, because the casing pins which hold the body to the front plate tend to get dislodged if the door is slammed sevral times. so far better and quicker imo to mount the magnet the right way up i.e. as designed (shame on you for suggesting anything outside of the makers design criteria ) and fill the channel either side with a hot melt glue gun to secure it. very quick to set, holds secure and if you do happen miss-align it, then it's a simple matter to soften the glue and adjust properly, and a bonus is you won't interfere with any of the doors cold seal envelopes (that what everest often clap on about ) regs alan Hmm you didnt mention drilling the magnet - would that be the hot glue gun I`ve just spent 4 hrs refixing "subby fitted..." door contacts for ? - they all come loose when the glue finally sets turn the magnet upside down ( and incredibly the manfs. dont specify which way they should be) drill and fix then glue if your that bothered about it coming loose - but there again we havnt had one do that in 20 years
Gixxer Posted January 12, 2008 Posted January 12, 2008 looking for door contacts to fit aluminium doors on domestic installneed to hide or make it as less obvious as possible can any one advise There are no G2/G3 contacts which are less obvious you can get G2 flush but you will still end up with at least a G2 6way JB on the frame or near abouts. It's a nightmare with fussy demestics!
antinode Posted January 12, 2008 Posted January 12, 2008 There are no G2/G3 contacts which are less obvious you can get G2 flush but you will still end up with at least a G2 6way JB on the frame or near abouts. It's a nightmare with fussy demestics! Elmdene make a G2 self contained flush contact that doesn't require a JB. Trade Member
arfur mo Posted January 12, 2008 Posted January 12, 2008 G3 needs "interferance detection" and "off frame" tamper as well as terminal access tamper but G2 just needs the latter - best we`ve seen is a quick fit with a screw down cover for the terminals, only problem is the resistor values ( why did I think of Arf LOL) are wrong for our panels hi Angus, while not saying your wrong i'm a bit confussed with your G2 interpretation tbh it has been discussed in the past, flush contacts are not concidered G2, the consensus was to fit surface contacts. surely if you use the metal block ones in to a tampered j/b this conforms as you have the tamper loop into the contact, or otherwise how can we contact roller shutters or garage up and over doors and conform? must admit i can't see many high end house owners willingly accepting any surface contact or G3 contact on the front door regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
arfur mo Posted January 12, 2008 Posted January 12, 2008 Hmm you didnt mention drilling the magnet - would that be the hot glue gun I`ve just spent 4 hrs refixing "subby fitted..." door contacts for ? - they all come loose when the glue finally setsturn the magnet upside down ( and incredibly the manfs. dont specify which way they should be) drill and fix then glue if your that bothered about it coming loose - but there again we havnt had one do that in 20 years no, i'm not fixing the magnet and read to the door with glue instead if the screws (have seen it done with double sided tape though - good old BT). any tool used incorrectly will likely not perform properly or to it's best, and as with any adhesive you have to clean out any dust or debris first, and the glue gun has got to be at full working temperature or the glue cools on contact or before it fully bonds. on many if not all metal or plastic doors there is a channel at the top, once you have decided where the magnet should be, use a small blob to hold it, after having tested all is ok fill in either side of it to secure and reinforce. i've used this method for since glue guns cam on the market, never ever had a single problem, but i have gone out to many who used your method because the bit that holds the magnet parts from the case over time when the plastic get brittle, if the door gets slammed or its lost when the door is removed for servicing. if you accept for best operation that ideally the magnet should be as in-line as possible, and as close to the reed as possible with a slight gap of about 2mm to prevent fouling, then using the magnet upside down as you do will increases the distance to the reed more than is necessary due to the thickness of the housing base molding. many may work fine but if your slightly off, the magnet is a bit weak, the reed is a bit stiffer or the door drops after fitting then your more likely to get what is really in my opinion an easily avoidable fault. regs alan If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!
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